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Thunderbird Club

I posted this on the Sunn owners sub, but it’s not very active. I may be picking up a Sunn 215 cab tomorrow. It comes with two sets of speakers. Electo-Voice EVM 15L and Sunn Transducer, likely 158 series. So, which should I put in? My current Sunn 215m has EVs.

Whichever sounds the best in that 215 cabinet. I feel, like with everything music related, some are "tuned" to have a certain specific (pickups in guitars/basses, speakers in cabinets).

SERIOUS QUESTION
In what context is a thunderbird best suited for, and which should you choose a precision or jazz bass?

When my epiphone thunderbird was still operational, i've used it on the more "hard rock/glam rock" stuff (though i've done one full show with it, it wasn't the best back then). My band's first album has two songs with the Bird because it felt the best to suit those particular songs. Once i'm done with its revamping, I'm sure the new Gibson 60's spec bird pickups will yield a wider range in which i can play this bird throughout.

When i had my Homebuilt Tigerbird (which i've since gifted to a good friend of mine after some touch ups & new hardware), & that was my more all around'er (given its 80's era P/j Active set, i built the bass with a reverse split p in mind). & that was just thunderous as it should. Had i kept it, definitely would've been played on every music genre wise.

I'm a devote Pbass player (i own 6 so far, none are 7enders, 2 are early 2000's Squiers, 1 parts bass, 1 off brand from the 90's, & 2 built by me), & i'll reach them for everything mainly because i know they sound/feel/perform optimally. It's THE session bass in my book.

Jazz bass, i've never been the fan much. Can't gel with the tone as much as with a pbass. But I can see a jazz bass more on those slap pop/funk stuff. Music where the bass handles the low & top end, but little to no mids. Though Klaus Flouride of Dead Kennedys played a 66'? jazz bass (dot inlay, bound neck, sweet blue finish with matched headstock), & his sound is awesome for that band.

Really, reaching for any bass in ones collection, can bring much more inspiration to writing, vs just limiting them to their own genre of music. I can play any bass on any music, I just gotta be good at playing that style of music & let the bass be my partner through it all. If i don't feel comfortable with a specific bass for wtvr music i'm playing, i'll grab another, maybe i'll surprise myself with playing a blues set with Bootsy's Star bass :D (i wish i had that in a collection, just the outworldly funk machine)
 
Thanks @Chucky Stiletti @TBird1958 and @RedVee that's great info!

Ok, bit subjective, but which neck pos do you guys/girls (or anyone who happens to read this thread) feel has the doinkiest/plummy-est bottom (AHEM) but also clearest top end?

As I play my Thunderbirds I'm favouring my Non-Reverses for the ergonomics on a strap as well as where the design puts the playing-/scale- length of the strings for my left/fretting hand. I'm chasing perspective on the neck p'up position as that seems to vary by a lot more compared to the bridge units.

I'm collating my ideas for a 35" scale 4 to tune as the bottom 4 from a 5 string (I always have a D-tuner on the B to go to Drop-A) and also to put an 8-string together. But as I could go without a pickguard I could put the neck p'ups wherever I prefer.

To get the distances right for a different scale I can use ratios of string length, so all is possible, I've been vacillating between the neck p'up position on the Greco and that on my '13 & '22 NRs (which are close to but not the same position as the 50th Anni/RexBirds).

Tho I don't play/own one right now I've always been a fan of the P bass p'up position - the Greco neck tone reminds me of the P tone (AHEM!) the most.

Plummy-est, fattest, doinkiest, boingiest bottom - wotcha think?
With my 67NR*, I only use the neck pup. With minor tone adjustments. I get as mellow(5)to punchy(10)a sound as I want-for what we do[60s/70s rock and country]-depending also on how I EQ the amp(3 different sizes of Rumbles-40, 100, 200).

I've used the TBird for everything from big band to concert band to jazz trio. For many years it was my only bass, which kinda narrowed my choices.

Quite a few years ago, I bought a Squire VM Jaguar SS** as a backup/tight space instrument. The P pup was decent; the J pup bordered on useless. I got rid of it 'cos the the neck profile was uncomfortable to my fretting hand(I started on a 66 Gibson EB-3 in 67; been playing Gibson/Epi necks almost exclusively since then).
I've never even held a P bass.
*
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**
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~ Ouch!~ That's like saying piloting a stock TL1000R Suzuki put me off motorcycling!

In the wrong hands (right-hand specifically) these bikes are like drinking straight Everclear. I actually always wanted one (maybe still do) but from what I've heard... (I'm still alive!)

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It was the S model that was really spooky. Something about the way Suzuki did the rear suspension and shock made them a complete handful. I haven't ridden one, but sure would like to. A big V-twin is a different kind of crazy from what I'm used to. That engine led to SV650 engines, which are soldiering on and probably will for a lot longer.
 
Of course you can drink liquids at or below the temperature of bourbon on the rocks. No assumption there. That’s why I said lower the ability of taste buds to taste the flavour rather than remove or kill the ability.

Im also British so only drink Scottish whisky and avoid whiskey
Proof of being civilized.
 
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Meh. Tone wood is a myth in my books anyway.

I'm not seeing it an issue of tonewood (for solid-body or bass per se) as much as fraud. Birch is a great tonewood for drums, an acoustic instrument where tonewood really has an effect (despite angry victims calling the whole species "firewood"). But I likewise don't want a birch archtop, especially if I've got it unknowingly. My girlfriend might have fallen victim to an Epi 335, and no wonder she doesn't like it!
I'm not going to ditch my VP 'Bird - it's a great bass. But I probably will double check before buying another Epi bass. I've always liked a Mudbucker bass and had an eye on an Epi EB-3 or Newport, but it's an opportunity to look further.
 
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Please share your tone cheat sheet!

There really isn't one, but like most I can vary my tone by where I place my right hand in relation to the bridge and pickups. and of course there's working with your amp settings. I may be a bit of a dinosaur though, I don't currently use any effects or pedals of any kind ( not slagging here!), just the bass and amp, nice and simple.
 
Ok, so it seems that from 12 fret to the centre (ie between the 2 halves) of a P p'up is ≈11⅛ inches. I can see in that list @RedVee shared for me that there are a small number of Thunderbird basses (of the 3 main brands measured) @ 11" and a bunch@ 10 ¹⁵/¹⁶" and yet more @ 10⅞". Thanks ever so much for the help you lot, great club!
PS was interested to note there are no measurements for Orville Thunderbirds in that list, did nobody involved have one at that point?
I'm'a measure my own Greco and work out a position from that one. This bit of learning helps resolve my suspicions over why I like the doink/boing of the Greco neck position so much.
I've updated the list with my Orville measurement:
  • 1991 Orville by Gibson 10 9/16" 14 7/16"
 
I'm not seeing it an issue of tonewood (for solid-body or bass per se) as much as fraud. Birch is a great tonewood for drums, an acoustic instrument where tonewood really has an effect (despite angry victims calling the whole species "firewood"). But I likewise don't want a birch archtop, especially if I've got it unknowingly. My girlfriend might have fallen victim to an Epi 335, and no wonder she doesn't like it!
I'm not going to ditch my VP 'Bird - it's a great bass. But I probably will double check before buying another Epi bass. I've always liked a Mudbucker bass and had an eye on an Epi EB-3 or Newport, but it's an opportunity to look further.
I can understand feeling ripped off if you buy something and find out it's made of different material than you thought, but Epiphone is not known for accurate descriptions on their website.
And that's probably still a pretty good 335 for the money.

Most wood called mahogany isn't really mahogany, and many "rosewoods" aren't really rosewood.
Mahogany: Which one is the real thing? – Woodworkers Source Blog
Distinguishing Brazilian Rosewood, East Indian and Other Rosewoods | The Wood Database
 
Noise pollution - unless they make them quieter... they should be banned. I've done most all of my Decorative Arts painting in affluent areas of CA. (among thee most affluent in the country) All day, every day you hear the leaf-blowers. (professional blow-jobs)

...can I say that Paul? :D

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I get it. The racket started next door at 6:45 this morning.
 
Noise pollution - unless they make them quieter... they should be banned. I've done most all of my Decorative Arts painting in affluent areas of CA. (among thee most affluent in the country) All day, every day you hear the leaf-blowers. (professional blow-jobs)

...can I say that Paul? :D

View attachment 5279382
Electric leaf blowers are quieter, but not quiet. Still better.
 
Any way first clue on the epiphonegate disaster….

its not a ‘59

its an epiphone

why anyone would be deluded thinking they were getting something resembling a 59’ in 2023 no matter who manufactured it is beyond me.

“hey what year is your geetar”?

ohh, hey it’s a 59’ but it’s a reissue of the 1984 59’, they just came out this year”.

“and it was made in the fukyomama plant in BFE”…

“that is so cool”

shaging dumbasses
 
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Thank you folks - very interesting to know that.
I had been assuming the placement of the p'ups on my Greco IV was the same as the "60's" Reverse basses, and the neck unit is definitely further from the 12th fret on that bass - but just by eye it can see it's more than ¼ of an inch. I had anticipated the Reverse (but not the Non-Reverse) IIs single p'ups were nearer the bridge because of my Greco.

Someone else may have mentioned this, but the Greco is also a bit shorter scale. I don't recall exactly how much at this point. That won't make a lot of difference, but it is a difference.