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Thunderbird Club

So, I had my panties up all in a bunch over tone and wiring.
And no, they weren’t crotchless 😂
Been having quite the convo with @Chucky Stiletti about it all.

Vid, courtesy of the master himself.
Sir Chuck.

You guys judge for yourself.
V/Blend.
Delano with a 250k pot, Lollar wired in series.


Love the concept Jeff. I liked the blended, but am sure all sounded even better in person. Vids are awful at capturing bass.

And I'm glad we we got that panty thing all sorted out! :laugh:
 
Tubes are just cool. There's a great old vid of the Mullard factory on the making of tubes way back.

A older friend at church is a Ham operator and worked at Naval Ordnance here in the electronics area. He was talking when Nixie tubes were used for certain things. Talk about cool. Might have to get a clock one day.
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Does anyone here know what volume and tone pot values the bicentennial birds used?

The tone cap is a .047uf but I can’t find any resistance markings on the volume and tone pots. A Typical Tbird would be 500k ohm on the volume pots and 250k ohm on the tone pot with some exceptions like the Goth.

I just wired my BaCH up with ‘76 pickups and it sounds great but the volume knobs are acting pretty much as an on off switch, no significant change in volume as you turn the knob. Tone knob works as it should. I just used the pots that were in the bass assuming it’s a 500k and 250k set but I suspect the volume knobs are not audio taper, so I’ll be replacing them with fresh audio pots in the correct vintage resistance.
This is an old pic but don't think it will be helpful.
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It's a must have. I even read on TB somewhere that it affects the tone! :D

Not a priority, but I'm so used to seeing tug bars, when I don't a Thunderbird looks naked.
ssshhh... it's an insiders secret that a so-called 'tug bar' is a tone generator - remove it at your own risk.
 
It'd have to be the inserts; all the brackets are stamped "MX" and the overall Kit is supposed to be MX series as well.

It'd explain the wood slots having substantial clearance internally for the aluminum to be wider inside... and if it was, there'd be no issue.

Email's been sent with photos; We shall see what tomorrow will bring. Hopefully at not much more waste of time, as time is my biggest problem these days.

I called the DL support line a bit after 6am PST; phone was picked up on the first ring by a very cheerful and friendly lady named Taylor.

Told her the tale, referred her to my email; "Wow, I see what you mean. Let me talk to my supervisor and get back to you."

Email received back at 0634 (less than 15 minutes after hanging up):

"Thank you for the photo, I do see the problem, there is a slight difference in the new style of guitar hanger, while the old model went in with a slight gap the new ones are meant to snap into place. If you push down on the hanger while it is sitting the way it is in the picture, it will snap right into place.
"Please try and let me know if you have any questions."

Luckily I'm working from home today, so I put a rail on a stout worktable, lined up the bracket toward the center of the rail, and pressed downward with all my 200-lb gravitic 'might,' being careful to keep meaty hand bits out from between pinchy spaces.

Nothing. Feet off floor, no dice.

Backed off, regrouped mentally, and tried at the end of the rail, reasoning more flex would be available there.

"Unnnnnngggggg!!!!" (wiggle bracket slightly side to side) "Arghh..!!"

*BANG!*

Bracket in. Well past 100lbs force required, but in, and moving freely within the slot.

Thinking "that's gonna be fun pushing against the wall seven feet up," I tested pulling it back out by levering upward.

Came out without too much struggle. Powder coat missing from the bottom edge of the bracket but otherwise unscathed.

So they CAN be made to work - they just go in as a high-interference fit. Contrary to instructions/videos/others' prior experience.

Emailed Taylor back the results, and recommended they update instructions to make clearer and save other people several hours puzzlement/unhappiness/potential injury when the hanger slams home.

She replied:
"Thank you for letting me know!
"I'm very sorry for the confusion, I will let my supervisor know that the instructions need updated.
"We sincerely appreciate your patience and feedback.
"I'm happy I was able to help you and that you get to enjoy your Christmas gift!"

Taylor at DiamondLife gets massive kudos for truly stellar customer support. Hands down the best CS experience I've had in years. Gold star.

So, my takeaways and plan of attack:
1) make absolutely sure aluminum inserts are clamped in place at limit of travel (top one toward rail top, bottom one toward bottom) before drilling for mounting, to allow maximum insertion gap once they've got screws holding them and they can't float in the slots anymore.
2) when drilling & bolting, do the TOP rail first & let gravity help position the bottom rail before drilling it and the wall.
3) install one rail and re-test bracket insertion; the combination of knowing required pressure and having it bolted to the wall might give enough leverage, but access at that height might not.
4) since the instructions warn against installing the hangers within 3" of a rail end, to avoid potential failure... I'm considering filing a small relief in the bottom rail lip right at the end-of-travel for the brackets, to lessen the insertion force required & prevent damage/injury/knocking pictures off the other side of the wall when putting hangers in. Doesn't need much help, but might need some.

Sadly, I'm not going to have time to do any of that until Christmas is past & into the weekend.

But I'm confident I can make these work, now.

Instructions are important, even for things that look simple.
 
Did the trade.
The bass is right about mint, plays well and seems to sound good. It's a way different animal, been a minute since I've played a shorty.
The build is tight and pretty robust, feels way more substantial than the Höfner version. And the wood is a nice quilted Maple, it looks it anyway. The poly finish is standard Epiphone, heavy. But I'm good with it!
The guy was happy to roll the cab away, we got it down the steps and into his truck ez. He sent a pic of it stacked under another one, and next to a stack of the Ampeg HN series cabs next to it. He's psyched.
Here's the bass...
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I heard a muffled chuckle from the back of the room... 😆😎
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Your back will thank you for that trade. A 410 cabinet, at least the traditional ones, are the spawn of hell, sent to earth to cripple bass players slowly but surely as they try to move them. A 'fridge is heavier but easier to move.
 
Your back will thank you for that trade. A 410 cabinet, at least the traditional ones, are the spawn of hell, sent to earth to cripple bass players slowly but surely as they try to move them. A 'fridge is heavier but easier to move.
I did manage to "score" a Bag End Q10 X-D, deep version 4x10. 🙂
I know. But it's a taller, better design, and sounds absolutely stupid. 😎
Edit: ...and for half what I paid for the Ampeg...
 
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As promised, a side by each sound test of my newly finished Bicentennial BaCH NonReverse Tbird IV vs my Gibson 1979 Bicentennial Reverse Tbird. Both on identical settings but the BaCH has TI Power Bass rounds and the Reverse has nickel rounds of some unknown type. Pay no attention to those black screws on the NR, my nickel screws are on back order.
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Bicentennial Tbird



Bicentennial BaCH NR IV

PS - ignore those clams on the NR recording, I had the action set super low, will bump it up a tad tomorrow.
PSS - I need a Bicentennial Tbird logo to complete the picture. Where’s Irv when you need him?
 
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As promised, a side by each sound test of my newly finished Bicentennial BaCH NonReverse Tbird IV vs my Gibson 1979 Bicentennial Reverse Tbird. Both on identical settings but the BaCH has TI Power Bass rounds and the Reverse has nickel rounds of some unknown type. Pay no attention to those black screws on the NR, my nickel screws are on back order.
View attachment 7394217

Bicentennial Tbird
View attachment 7394223


Bicentennial BaCH NR IV
View attachment 7394222
PS - ignore those clams on the NR recording, I had the action set super low, will bump it up a tad tomorrow.
The BaCH is so much brighter. I think you need to do another demo of them with the same exact strings in the same exact condition!