It'd have to be the inserts; all the brackets are stamped "MX" and the overall Kit is supposed to be MX series as well.
It'd explain the wood slots having substantial clearance internally for the aluminum to be wider inside... and if it was, there'd be no issue.
Email's been sent with photos; We shall see what tomorrow will bring. Hopefully at not much more waste of time, as time is my biggest problem these days.
I called the DL support line a bit after 6am PST; phone was picked up on the first ring by a very cheerful and friendly lady named Taylor.
Told her the tale, referred her to my email; "Wow, I see what you mean. Let me talk to my supervisor and get back to you."
Email received back at 0634 (less than 15 minutes after hanging up):
"Thank you for the photo, I do see the problem, there is a slight difference in the new style of guitar hanger, while the old model went in with a slight gap the new ones are meant to snap into place. If you push down on the hanger while it is sitting the way it is in the picture, it will snap right into place.
"Please try and let me know if you have any questions."
Luckily I'm working from home today, so I put a rail on a stout worktable, lined up the bracket toward the center of the rail, and pressed downward with all my 200-lb gravitic 'might,' being careful to keep meaty hand bits out from between pinchy spaces.
Nothing. Feet off floor, no dice.
Backed off, regrouped mentally, and tried at the end of the rail, reasoning more flex would be available there.
"Unnnnnngggggg!!!!" (wiggle bracket slightly side to side) "Arghh..!!"
*BANG!*
Bracket in. Well past 100lbs force required, but in, and moving freely within the slot.
Thinking "that's gonna be fun pushing against the wall seven feet up," I tested pulling it back out by levering upward.
Came out without too much struggle. Powder coat missing from the bottom edge of the bracket but otherwise unscathed.
So they CAN be made to work - they just go in as a high-interference fit. Contrary to instructions/videos/others' prior experience.
Emailed Taylor back the results, and recommended they update instructions to make clearer and save other people several hours puzzlement/unhappiness/potential injury when the hanger slams home.
She replied:
"Thank you for letting me know!
"I'm very sorry for the confusion, I will let my supervisor know that the instructions need updated.
"We sincerely appreciate your patience and feedback.
"I'm happy I was able to help you and that you get to enjoy your Christmas gift!"
Taylor at DiamondLife gets massive kudos for truly stellar customer support. Hands down the best CS experience I've had in years. Gold star.
So, my takeaways and plan of attack:
1) make absolutely sure aluminum inserts are clamped in place at limit of travel (top one toward rail top, bottom one toward bottom) before drilling for mounting, to allow maximum insertion gap once they've got screws holding them and they can't float in the slots anymore.
2) when drilling & bolting, do the TOP rail first & let gravity help position the bottom rail before drilling it and the wall.
3) install one rail and re-test bracket insertion; the combination of knowing required pressure and having it bolted to the wall might give enough leverage, but access at that height might not.
4) since the instructions warn against installing the hangers within 3" of a rail end, to avoid potential failure... I'm considering filing a small relief in the bottom rail lip right at the end-of-travel for the brackets, to lessen the insertion force required & prevent damage/injury/knocking pictures off the other side of the wall when putting hangers in. Doesn't need much help, but might need some.
Sadly, I'm not going to have time to do any of that until Christmas is past & into the weekend.
But I'm confident I can make these work, now.
Instructions are important, even for things that look simple.