Id just like to say that a couple days ago my new combo amp arrived. Its a Warwick BC 150 and paired with my Epi Thunderbird Classic Pro it got me the best clean tone I have ever heard. I mean what Im saying and Im not just talking about tones Ive got out of my basses, Im talking about other peoples tones Ive heard, its amazing
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
- Start date
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- club thunderbird
You most likely could use it. It's really no harm done. What you could do before even installing it, measure the height of the lowered saddles, then measure the bass neck heel & you should get the pocket depth. If the MIK bird pocket depth is corret (or relatively close), go for it. Hope this helps.
That's coming along great, Tom! Gonna look as good as new!
Just go EASY on the frets Tom.
If you flatten out the tops of the fretwire it'll sound like a sitar.
Make sure the wire stays nice and round.
I usually use a scotch brite pad for that.
Good luck man!
I went to Ace Hardware(on Essington Trebless) and got a sanding sponge 380 grit and took my time and stayed pretty lite. Hope I did it right.
hillerup
There are basses, and there are Thunderbirds!
Hipshot make good bridge for Gibson) its my eb0 with hipshot
That is a replacement for pre-1973 2-point Gibson bridges...
It is not a replacement for the 3-point bridge used on newer Gibsons and Epiphones.
I'm pretty sure you could still use the two point instead of three. Looks less bulky
hillerup
There are basses, and there are Thunderbirds!
No...
Take a close look at the placement of the saddles vs the anchors on the 2-point and compare them to a 3-point bridge/Supertone and you will see the won't line up = won't intonate properly...
I've mentioned this several pages back with pictures and measurements of both bridges...
So here's the side markers mess I need to remedy and I'm open to suggestions.
The only thing I can think to do is to try and remove the sparkly glue with super fine grit sandpaper or perhaps try some kind of solvent.
How would you tackle this, Chris?
The only thing I can think to do is to try and remove the sparkly glue with super fine grit sandpaper or perhaps try some kind of solvent.
How would you tackle this, Chris?
Me being me, I'd paint em on and clear coat it. Certainly won't look original but o tend to worry about seeing on stage so I use bright green paint.
Oh geez!
Depending on the kind of glue it is you could try picking at it with a fingernail. If its polyvinyl resin (white glue) based, it may come off. If its harder like epoxy or CA, then id level it with a razor blade then start sanding to blend and polish to match the neck.
Get a straight razor and tape the 2 sides with scotch tape, leaving a section of blade exposed thats about the same size as the glue spot, then rake the blade that's still exposed witj a file in one direction so you get a lip on one side of the blade.
Use the lip as a scraper and gently go over the area until its level, then id probably start wet sanding with 400 and work my way up to 2000 or 3000 and then compound it and wax.
Hard to really say without having it in hand.
Thats a stupid thing to do to a bass...just when you think youve seen it all...
Its a epi...whew...was thinking gibson.
The poly finish is pretty bulletproof.
You might even try some goo-gone or something to try and remove the glue.
Try to test on an inconspicuous area, but ive had good luck with xylene and tolulene, even lacquer thinner, getting crap off.
Nasty stuff though just an FYI and keep it away from the gibsons! The nitro will come right off with any contact from that stuff.
The poly finish is pretty bulletproof.
You might even try some goo-gone or something to try and remove the glue.
Try to test on an inconspicuous area, but ive had good luck with xylene and tolulene, even lacquer thinner, getting crap off.
Nasty stuff though just an FYI and keep it away from the gibsons! The nitro will come right off with any contact from that stuff.
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Tom stole that bird.
It's totally mint except for the button holes!
Good job man!
Thank you sir, but had you not found the Pre comming off i dont know what I would have done.
The razor and tape idea works great! I used that technique when assembling my Warmoth Bird and it really did work.
One of the previous owners of my black Hamer Bird had used white out to mark the side dots. The guy I bought it from got rid of that nonsense before he sold it to me. I guess people like to be "creative" when it comes to their side dots.
Thanks, Chris!
Man, I wish it was Elmers... that would be great. My guess is epoxy or CA. The both yellow over time and as you can see, they've yellowed.
This got my scratching my head a bit... "then rake the blade that's still exposed with a file in one direction so you get a lip on one side of the blade. Use the lip as a scraper and gently go over the area until its level," Do you have a "scraper blade" that you've got prepared sitting in your work bench so I can see what I should shoot for? Are we talking about a utility knife blade, fairly easy to hold onto and not flexible? How big of a lip, .002 - .005? Something that I can feel but not really see or something more than that?
Sorry about the additional questions, just don't want to jack it up by starting off wrong right from the get go.
After the sanding, you say compound it and wax. What do you recommend?
Agreed... unless the person had something glued on that he liked AND it made it easier for him to see, it's kind of dumb. But hell, if you can't look down and just know where 3 and 5 are, maybe guitar ain't for you. SMH
Man, I wish it was Elmers... that would be great. My guess is epoxy or CA. The both yellow over time and as you can see, they've yellowed.
This got my scratching my head a bit... "then rake the blade that's still exposed with a file in one direction so you get a lip on one side of the blade. Use the lip as a scraper and gently go over the area until its level," Do you have a "scraper blade" that you've got prepared sitting in your work bench so I can see what I should shoot for? Are we talking about a utility knife blade, fairly easy to hold onto and not flexible? How big of a lip, .002 - .005? Something that I can feel but not really see or something more than that?
Sorry about the additional questions, just don't want to jack it up by starting off wrong right from the get go.
After the sanding, you say compound it and wax. What do you recommend?
Agreed... unless the person had something glued on that he liked AND it made it easier for him to see, it's kind of dumb. But hell, if you can't look down and just know where 3 and 5 are, maybe guitar ain't for you. SMH
