I really want a bird with a single neck pupWell I guess I can show a pic now I have paid for it and it is about to ship. More to come when the Bird lands.
This is not the one on eBay with the twisted neck.
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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- club thunderbird
Well I guess I can show a pic now I have paid for it and it is about to ship. More to come when the Bird lands.
This is not the one on eBay with the twisted neck.
Hot damn. Hot. Damn.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,587
- 221,949
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,894
- 142,207
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
Well I guess I can show a pic now I have paid for it and it is about to ship. More to come when the Bird lands.
This is not the one on eBay with the twisted neck.
Edit- 1977 Greco TB II
Angriest 'Bird ever!
You may find you it to be the only bass you'll want to play, keeps some Rounds on it and it'll destroy everything in it's path!
Yes, I am really, really looking forward to this one arriving. I have had some friends looking for one at a reasonable price and in sound condition for well over a year.
I was really excited when one of them found this one for me. They aren't common.
A couple of my good mates in Australia speak really highly of them as well. They reckon they are sort of like a P Bass on steroids.
Yes, I usually run nickel rounds and from what I have heard they should suit this beast well.
I think it will really suit my sound. And, hey, who doesn't love the looks of a TB II?
Here's another one in the case. I'll post some of my own when it arrives and I clean it up.
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,894
- 142,207
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
I think mine slays any P bass for tone, but hey, I'm biased!
They're not quite a 34" scale - Like 33" and change. The case will feel kind of light compared to a Gibson one, no big deal there, in fact I've put my Gibsons in the Greco case many times.
Yes I understand they are slightly shorter scale. I don't expect that will worry me. I jump from Rics (33 1/4") to Rippers and RDs ( a bit over 34") without even noticing it now.
The slightly fuller neck will actually be more familiar as well.
The tone is going to be interesting and I am excited about it. I do like P Basses (Oops!) but they can get a bit thin and nasally particularly on the D and G strings (not as bad as Jazzes but still noticeable), plus they all have dead spots no matter what the fan boys say. They do work well in my current band and with my GK rig. So I expect this to work even better, particularly now we only have one guitarist.
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,894
- 142,207
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
You'll LOVE IT with a GK! Won't miss the second guitarist playing that bass either.
Yes that's what I figure. It should be a great match with my Fusion 550. Incidentally, what pedals to you run with yours?
I run a MXR M87 compressor, EHX Big Muff Pi Bass Deluxe (mainly for the integral High Pass Filter and the Noise Gate, but occasionally the Fuzz) and a MXR M83 Chorus (just a little).
My tuner (a Petersen Stroborack) is rack mounted with the 550.
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,894
- 142,207
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
Just one, Line6, no distortion. I use it mostly as a customizable eq for each bass that I own - you adjust volume etc to suit each bass.
Speaking of Precisions and Thunderbirds, just curious if anyone knows how similar the pickup position is on the IIs to the traditional Precision "sweet spot".
Looks pretty similar to me from pics and there is a view that this contributes to the performance of the TBIIs. I'll give some precise measurements when my Greco gets here. I'll compare that to single and split coil P Basses pickup positions as I have some here.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,587
- 221,949
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
'66 P-bass; from neck pocket to center bridge saddles - approx 10.5" / from center of split pu = 4 7/8" from np - 5.5/8" from saddles.
'64 T-bird II; from neck pocket to center bridge saddles - approx 10.5" / from center of HB = 4" from np - 6.5" from bridge saddles.
'64 T-bird II; from neck pocket to center bridge saddles - approx 10.5" / from center of HB = 4" from np - 6.5" from bridge saddles.
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Soooo I gotta question... gonna bring my fenderbird Project to a whole new Level so to speak....
I wanted to use a Body from a White limited Korea bird but now my Buddy just bought a cnc, so we can make a new Body easily.
I think I want to use alder, it's gonna be a p-bass-killer
maybe swamp ash If I get some cheap
what I wanted to ask:
Should I make the wings separately and glue them to the Body or just rout the wings "thinner" from front and backside?
I wanted to use a Body from a White limited Korea bird but now my Buddy just bought a cnc, so we can make a new Body easily.
I think I want to use alder, it's gonna be a p-bass-killer
maybe swamp ash If I get some cheapwhat I wanted to ask:
Should I make the wings separately and glue them to the Body or just rout the wings "thinner" from front and backside?
If it were me, I'd plane the body blank to the correct thickness with wing stock included. Then I'd glue the raised sections prior to cutting the body's outline.
I would think it would work best if you just routed the wings thinner on the front and back. Less glue joints would mean less filling and sanding prior to painting along with eliminating tell tale wood seams inside the unfinished neck pocket and pickup routs.Soooo I gotta question... gonna bring my fenderbird Project to a whole new Level so to speak....
I wanted to use a Body from a White limited Korea bird but now my Buddy just bought a cnc, so we can make a new Body easily.
I think I want to use alder, it's gonna be a p-bass-killer
what I wanted to ask:
Should I make the wings separately and glue them to the Body or just rout the wings "thinner" from front and backside?
Just a personal preference thing but I've never really liked the raised center block on the back of the bass, so if it were me I'd put a really nice Spector or Warwick type body curve to the entire backside and a jazz bass type forearm curve to the front side and retain the raised center block on the front only. Just a thought.
