Thunderbird Bass Pickups with Rings - Nickel
Here are some economical ones. They are supposedly the Chinabuckers but I don’t know for sure.
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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- club thunderbird
Here are some economical ones. They are supposedly the Chinabuckers but I don’t know for sure.
you'll pay at least 4X that if you're lucky enough to find Gibson 60's originals..
I'm sure. I have no interest in the original ones though
Those Chinabuckers are supposed to be almost as good, as long as you don't A-B them. But they won't sound like the TB+. I think the Queen's method from that link should work.
You seem to be handy with spray paint. Considered spray? Not that I know whether or not that would do anything to the sound...
Oh boy, he’s on his way to his first open container violation.
Or just get them chrome-plated.
Does anyone make a replica 76 pickguard for modern birds?
We use the same thing in a different package for tracing telecom cabling. It makes you quite aware of how much electrical noise noise there is everywhere.
https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-701K...ocphy=9001515&hvtargid=pla-435280897131&psc=1
If only Epiphone would sell the ones they put in the VP...
Has anyone confirmed yet that they aren't Chinabuckers?
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,895
- 142,214
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
The ones Mike is suggesting are a great option at a good price, I'm thinking about a set for one of my Birds as well - you can find them on Fleabay as well. Regarding a '76 pickguard, they are different size, hole pattern and shape compared to modern ones, so no direct crossover between the two. But I see to recall that someone has done this, I just can't remember who.
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,895
- 142,214
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
I seem to recall Russ @veebass has both a VP and a Bird with Chinabuckers and he thought them to be identical.
What makes you think that I'm good with spray paint?
If I'm understanding things correctly, the neck on an Epi Pro is walnut and maple. I need to reposition the bridge on mine. As I haven't done this before, I have a few questions.
Note: The original bridge was off, but the new one is worse. The re-used mounting holes were the same spacing but those in the original bridge were more offset from the strings than I remembered.
- The screw holes are mainly in the lighter wood (maple, I assume). Are maple dowels the best thing to plug the old holes with? Should I look for tapered plugs and glue? Fluted plugs and glue? Maple sawdust and wood glue?
- Do I drill holes a bit under the size of the dowels and just pound them in? Or is it better to have a slightly loose fit and glue them in?
- Should I cut them just a bit short, or do I want them flush? I've read that they can expand at a different rate than the body with humidity changes, causing them to try to protrude. That would push against the bridge. Do I care?
Note: The original bridge was off, but the new one is worse. The re-used mounting holes were the same spacing but those in the original bridge were more offset from the strings than I remembered.
1. Maple I should think, can you get hold of a plug cutter bit for your drill? And try to see that the grain of the plug runs the same direction as the grain you're setting them into.
*...get a piece of Maple to cut plugs from, drill your hole the same size as the plug cutter you use...
2. Make the hole so that the plug fits snug. You should need to tap them in lightly with a hammer- after you dip them in glue of course!.
3. With a sharp chisel shave away at it until your plug is flush/very nearly so, then use light sandpaper to bring it down. Go slow and be mindful, pay attention to where your non- cutting hand is, etc. Use the chisel bevel-side down, so it's not as easy to drive into the existing surface when you slip.
Are these just little screwholes?...
*...get a piece of Maple to cut plugs from, drill your hole the same size as the plug cutter you use...
2. Make the hole so that the plug fits snug. You should need to tap them in lightly with a hammer- after you dip them in glue of course!.
3. With a sharp chisel shave away at it until your plug is flush/very nearly so, then use light sandpaper to bring it down. Go slow and be mindful, pay attention to where your non- cutting hand is, etc. Use the chisel bevel-side down, so it's not as easy to drive into the existing surface when you slip.
Are these just little screwholes?...
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- Jul 1, 2005
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- CataldoBasses: Designer/Builder ThunderBuckerPickups:Consultant
Just requires a little skill and creativity.
My Pro IV, photoshopped 'bird image from my '77, laser printed on clear vinyl, hand cut guard. I sent Larry the 'bird file, not sure if he's still doing die cut logos.
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Oh, sorry - I thought you were the bird lover that spray-painted the wings of the bass recently. My bad.
Just requires a little skill and creativity.
My Pro IV, photoshopped 'bird image from my '77, laser printed on clear vinyl, hand cut guard. I sent Larry the 'bird file, not sure if he's still doing die cut logos.
Nope, stopped doing them. After a while, my vinyl guy's quality started to fall off. I thought about getting my own vinyl cutter and doing them myself but then I decided I didn't want the hassle. I might have a couple laying around... I can check when I get home if anyone is interested.
Size-wise they are accurate but my vinyl guy couldn’t get the ‘76 done right but from a few feet away, close enough.
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