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Thunderbird Club

Nothing traditional about me, e.g., my avatar bass. The no-ring PUPs look unfinished to me, like they were trying to save a buck by not including it.
interesting, to me it looks like it's trying to hide sloppy workmanship on the PG since rings typically serve a pickup mounting purpose that can be handled by a pickguard when available...
 
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Ha, I've thought about it, and many have asked, but no, just a green shag rug.



Yeah, I thought it would take more time, but John whipped it out! Very excited to get going on it. John did ask what I was using to paint, and recommended instead of a nitro clear coat I go with the acrylic clear that pairs with the car paint, just to reduce risk of incompatibility. I already have nitro on the way, but I'm definitely planning on testing it with the color coat to see if they react to each other. The acrylic clear would certainly cut down on dry time...my only concern is would it age and yellow the same way? Hmmmm.
If John K says it's a good idea, it probably is a good idea.
 
Picking this up today!!!
Thunderjazz.jpg
 
Doesn't seem to be working for some.:eyebrow: Unfortunately I don't mean that as a cute complement. When I was young I used to think that adults were really smart and wise. Now that I'm older I know better. Way too many are just children in adult bodies. Fortunately everybody here is very mature and serious minded.:woot:
I'll get you at recess for that.

No, wait, a lawyer might say that too...
 
I use readily hardware store available Zinsser Cover Stain oil-based primer/stain blocker/bond coat (rattle can) for a white, quick drying, flat sheen, easily sand-able base coat under colours. For clears I usually use lacquer from Stew Mac or ReRanch. You can get a decent DIY look with rattle-cans but for a 'factory' look it will require wet-sanding between coats and buffing after fully cured. And it's not like lacquer instantly amber's - it's clear as acrylic but over time it will amber, especially if exposed to UV rays/sunlight. Again - light coats, wet sanding, layers, respecting cure times and final buffing will result in a nice finish.

Yep, I've already got buffing attachments and wet sanding paper for once the clear coat is finished.
 
Yep, I've already got buffing attachments and wet sanding paper for once the clear coat is finished.
On a BaCH related note, you might recall I recently bought a BaCH NR. I need to get a new nut installed and the bridge saddles properly filed. IIRC John Kallas lives somewhere near me (Camarillo or Thousand Oaks maybe?). He seems pretty BaCH knowledgeable, I'd like to see if he'd be interested in the work. Do you have his contact information?
 
What ya looking at?

Yeah a Reverse II would be great, and it *may* happen at some point, we're going to put a new roof on the house and a couple other things, it could get lumped into that trip to the bank. The other possible project is an NR, I see a guy on ebay making bodies and he'll rout different pup configurations for you, including a II. Combined with a lefty J neck and one of your bridges, it could be a fun project.
 
On a BaCH related note, you might recall I recently bought a BaCH NR. I need to get a new nut installed and the bridge saddles properly filed. IIRC John Kallas lives somewhere near me (Camarillo or Thousand Oaks maybe?). He seems pretty BaCH knowledgeable, I'd like to see if he'd be interested in the work. Do you have his contact information?

He's here on TB too IIRC.
 
Yeah a Reverse II would be great, and it *may* happen at some point, we're going to put a new roof on the house and a couple other things, it could get lumped into that trip to the bank. The other possible project is an NR, I see a guy on ebay making bodies and he'll rout different pup configurations for you, including a II. Combined with a lefty J neck and one of your bridges, it could be a fun project.
I searched Ebay, I couldn't find it. Got the link?
 
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