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Thunderbird Club

Here’s the BlingBird schematic I designed. Sorry about the rough sketch, it was just kinda scribbled down on paper as I thought through how to maximize tone options and minimize the number of knobs…
View attachment 4552917

After some research I arrived at the conclusion that Fender solved that issue in the early 1960’s. Basically one stacked volume/tone stack per pup, repeat as necessary for each pup. The problem with Fenders design is it was for single coil Jazz basses so it utilized a 250k tone pot, not a great solution for humbuckers.

I decided to try a 1Meg stacked pot at the neck position (Mudbucker location on this bass) to pass a nearly full signal and hopefully counteract the inherent muddyness of that pup location. The Fender stacked pot design also dictates a 250ohm resistor on the hot output of each stack to keep the different tone stacks from cross bleeding. So that knocks a bit of the top end off (which on a 1meg pot isn’t a problem, but might be on a 500 or 250k pot). Finally I decided to use a .047 cap as a starting point, I may keep that as is or switch to .022 for a bit brighter tone or .068 for a darker tone.

It’s still early but so far the only thing I’m not completely satisfied with is the brand of stacked pot selected. I went with Alpha pots because I couldn’t find a CTS or Bourn pot with the right combination of resistance/taper/thread length. Alpha pots have never been my first choice as I find them a bit flimsy compared to CTS and other pots and they are a very open body design that invites dirt and dust. If you find a non alpha stacked pot that is 1meg ohm, audio taper on the vol half and linear taper on the tone half, and has enough thread length to work in a through body (vs control plate) design I’d be very very interested.

Wow - very nice! Thanks a lot for this G. I made one 3-pu bass years ago (since sold) that came out marginally well (looked better than it sounded) and I own a '63 Burns of London Vista Sonic medium sale w/3 pu's which is a very special/unique bass. I may attempt another someday and your schematic will help! :thumbsup:

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On my right hand, I can move the tip of each finger independently. Because of the (suspected) nerve injury and muscle atrophy, I could no longer move the tip of my index finger and tip of my thumb. The tendon that moves the tip of my thumb was relocated to the brachioradialis. That means that every time I flex my bicep, my thumb flexes.:wacky: My flexor digitorum profundus for my index finger (D2) was weaved to my middle finger (D3) so those two are now under the control of 1 muscle instead of individual muscles. So I can move my fingers independently at the knuckle and first joint but are not independent at the second joint.

Hands are complicated. No wonder so many people have trouble drawing them.



Best wishes for your continued recovery!
 
Here’s the BlingBird schematic I designed. Sorry about the rough sketch, it was just kinda scribbled down on paper as I thought through how to maximize tone options and minimize the number of knobs…
View attachment 4552917

After some research I arrived at the conclusion that Fender solved that issue in the early 1960’s. Basically one stacked volume/tone stack per pup, repeat as necessary for each pup. The problem with Fenders design is it was for single coil Jazz basses so it utilized a 250k tone pot, not a great solution for humbuckers.

I decided to try a 1Meg stacked pot at the neck position (Mudbucker location on this bass) to pass a nearly full signal and hopefully counteract the inherent muddyness of that pup location. The Fender stacked pot design also dictates a 250ohm resistor on the hot output of each stack to keep the different tone stacks from cross bleeding. So that knocks a bit of the top end off (which on a 1meg pot isn’t a problem, but might be on a 500 or 250k pot). Finally I decided to use a .047 cap as a starting point, I may keep that as is or switch to .022 for a bit brighter tone or .068 for a darker tone.

It’s still early but so far the only thing I’m not completely satisfied with is the brand of stacked pot selected. I went with Alpha pots because I couldn’t find a CTS or Bourn pot with the right combination of resistance/taper/thread length. Alpha pots have never been my first choice as I find them a bit flimsy compared to CTS and other pots and they are a very open body design that invites dirt and dust. If you find a non alpha stacked pot that is 1meg ohm, audio taper on the vol half and linear taper on the tone half, and has enough thread length to work in a through body (vs control plate) design I’d be very very interested.
Well thought out. You should have designed things for a living. ;) I think you should make a few more. I'll be your distributor East of the Mississippi at no charge. Just send me a couple and I'll try to sell them. But don't expect quick sales. I'll need to play them out to attract attention. These things take time. Two sent my way should be good for starters.:D