Tricked Out Squier Club Part 3

[fjadams]

I really dig that pearl paint! I scored a black 32" MIJ Sqier Precision in the classifieds here last year and bribed JohnK into refinishing it to Burgundy Mist. The trickiest part was finish removal. He said that the strongest chemical stripper just softened the original finish a bit, so he ended up having to sand it off. He did an exemplary job on the new finish. Other mods performed: custom-cut nitro tort guard, installed CTS pots (original knobs had to be drilled to fit), NOS tone cap, Duncan SBP-1 with dulled covers, refinished headstock with decal of Leo's last name...

Burgundy Mist is officially my new favorite 'vintage color'.

Everything I've seen of his is extraordinary. Burgundy Mist looks pretty good on Squiers. Pretty happy with my Jag SS repainted that color.

 

[fjadams]

Here is my Squier Jag SS repainted in Burgundy Mist. Alumitones, ToneStylers, Hipshot tuners, thru body bridge, custom pick guard, LaBella tapes.

 

[Signs]

Hello
1. The "copper tape" will help you shield the electronics, the "shielding paint" they use are in my opinion poor and have very little connectivity. New pot is a big improvement and I recommend "CTS" (The cheap pots will deteriorate fast, and I feel that they "mute" the sound like a blanket.)
2. http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=2 ?
I hope that my answer was helpful

Thanks for the reply.

Those HipShot Hb6c tuners look really good...

 

[aryanratulangie]

Can I get a number?

2010 MII Squire Deluxe Active Jazz V (before mods) with a 93 MIJ Fender Jazz

Post mod:

Mods:
- New neck
- Hipshot Ultralites
- 6 String Bridge

Incoming mods:
- New pups
- Sadowsky Pre

I bought a chrome pickup cover but somehow I can't get it installed because the action was so high the cover pressed on the strings. Any insights from anyone who managed to install one? Would the 4 string version of the pickup cover work?

 

[seang15]

Can I get a number?

2010 MII Squire Deluxe Active Jazz V (before mods) with a 93 MIJ Fender Jazz

Post mod:

Mods:
- New neck
- Hipshot Ultralites
- 6 String Bridge

Incoming mods:
- New pups
- Sadowsky Pre

I bought a chrome pickup cover but somehow I can't get it installed because the action was so high the cover pressed on the strings. Any insights from anyone who managed to install one? Would the 4 string version of the pickup cover work?

Sadowsky sticker!!??

 

[aryanratulangie]

Sadowsky sticker!!??

Actually, it's Sadowshy. Wanted to make a custom decal labelled Squierowsky but couldn't figure out what the font was so I figured it was way easier to change the K into an H.

 

[Gord_oh]

I'm not a fan when people label Squiers as Fenders, I'll have to think about that one...

Ok, so I have been working my new job for the past month. Now that I am used to the hours, I will hopefully have a massive update tomorrow. In the mean time,

...and she's for sale.

 

[gurensan]

Hello
1. The "copper tape" will help you shield the electronics, the "shielding paint" they use are in my opinion poor and have very little connectivity. New pot is a big improvement and I recommend "CTS" (The cheap pots will deteriorate fast, and I feel that they "mute" the sound like a blanket.)
2. http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=2 ?
I hope that my answer was helpful

You can also use regular aluminum foil. I did it in my Warwick.

Bring all the grounds to the ground lug on the jack, individually, including a wire to the foil shielding. My Warwick won't even pick up fluorescent lights right next to it! Works REALLY well, and is a whole lot cheaper than copper!

 

[seang15]

You can also use regular aluminum foil. I did it in my Warwick.

Bring all the grounds to the ground lug on the jack, individually, including a wire to the foil shielding. My Warwick won't even pick up fluorescent lights right next to it! Works REALLY well, and is a whole lot cheaper than copper!

How do you stick it in there? The copper tape comes with a sticky backing.

Thanks!

 

[vai777]

Would this qualify? If so I'd like a number.

Well...I have this squier bass with some pretty crappy frets...I have 3 other fretted basses so I figured what the hell...

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After removing the neck I had the genius idea of trying to file down the frets (grind them down with a Japanese whetstone...it works but it’s slow going). So when I got down to the fingerboard, guess what? The fret tangs didn't go all the way to the ends of the fingerboard (no pics of this)...so I proceeded to pull the frets. You can see the mark where the stone hit flush with the baord in the first pic...

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You get the idea... I would have taken a pic of me with the soldering iron and an Exacto knife removing them...but I didn't really want to push my luck with a 500 degree iron in my hand.
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Sanding with a 12” radius block, note the dark spots… they are wax that these foreign guitar makers somehow think is appropriate to apply to a rosewood board...it isn't.

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more sanding and MORE WAX....also enlarged the fret slots with a .035 nut file... took way too long (10-12 hours or so to get it right)...I don't have any power tools so...in fact nothing motorized was used during this project, and only one device, the iron used any power at all....they rest was done by hand.

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After cranking the truss rod and filing the fret slots there was a little more sanding... (I tightened the rod because it gave the neck a little back bow which eased the filing on the slots a bit.

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Next up is the installation (or should I say endless fine sanding, cursing and smashing with a hammer) of the fret markers (some white binding measuring .040 inches). In all seriousness they were hammered in with a friggin ****** hammer not made for this type of work...but it got the job done. I also had to sand in a 12" radius on the bottom of each of these little plastic pieces...annoying.

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More of the fret markers AND GLUE...used THIN CA glue, which is a PITA to work with and after wet sanding off the amount that got on my fingers (A LOT!) I continued to do the rest of the board.

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Next is the cutting of the excess tops and clipping of the ends of the fret markers... usually done with a small hobby saw... I used one of my beater Japanese kitchen knives...basically a 6 inch razor and some old wire cutters...worked great and I still have all my fingers.

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Next was the sanding of the entire board and sides again in order to get the markers flush with the wood...again using a 12" radius sanding block with 320 grit paper.

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Notice the wax still around that fretboard dot.

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Rollling the fingerboard edges (sanding and smoothing out the sharp edges of the fingerboard). Used a hard felt block and my fingers...fingers worked better.

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First coat of fretboard oil...at this point with the oil on I progressed through a 320, 600, 1000, 2500 and 8000 grit oil sanding... you could watch TV on the fretboard.

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Had to file the nut down as the fingerboard lost a bit of depth... didn't makes the slots deeper I flattened from the bottom...easier to control the final outcome.

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set up and ready to play...low action too (could go even lower)...4/64th Low E at the 15th "fret" and 3/64th high G at the 15th

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Everything used (except the finer grit sand papers).

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First time doing anything like this....I got lucky...real lucky.

 

[THand]

How do you stick it in there? The copper tape comes with a sticky backing.

Thanks!

I usually use copper, but ran out and needed to do a quick shielding and tried aluminium foil. I don't know what anyone else uses, but I used a purple glue stick my son had for elementary school. It actually worked pretty well. Checked it all over with a multimeter and it conducted between pieces fine. You just can't solder to the aluminium foil, that's the main difference...you just have to screw a wire to it to ground the shield( i usually solder it in with copper).

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

...


First time doing anything like this....I got lucky...real lucky.

Beautifully done!

 

[seang15]

I usually use copper, but ran out and needed to do a quick shielding and tried aluminium foil. I don't know what anyone else uses, but I used a purple glue stick my son had for elementary school. It actually worked pretty well. Checked it all over with a multimeter and it conducted between pieces fine. You just can't solder to the aluminium foil, that's the main difference...you just have to screw a wire to it to ground the shield( i usually solder it in with copper).

Thanks again!

 

[vai777]

Beautifully done!

Thanks

 

[Reaper Man]

I'll have to post a new picture. Just put a Highway One neck on my formerly affinity. Which meant I had to cut an access hole for the truss rod

Which brings the list of mods to the following:

BAII
Antiquity IIs
Highway One neck

only thing really stock at this point is the body

 

[Cney]

Are we ever going to get numbers in here?

 

[Gord_oh]

yes! I'm so behind on everything I haven't had time to sit down and get the numbers organized. sorry fellas. new job and married life makes it difficult.

 

[Slongo]

If I want a new pickguard I have to get it custom made right?

 

[Feral Feline]

...

Well...I have this squier bass with some pretty crappy frets...I have 3 other fretted basses so I figured what the hell...


[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

You get the idea... I would have taken a pic of me with the soldering iron and an Exacto knife removing them...but I didn't really want to push my luck with a 500 degree iron in my hand.

...

Sanding with a 12” radius block, note the dark spots… they are wax that these foreign guitar makers somehow think is appropriate to apply to a rosewood board...it isn't.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

more sanding and MORE WAX....also enlarged the fret slots with a .035 nut file... took way too long (10-12 hours or so to get it right)...I don't have any power tools so...in fact nothing motorized was used during this project, and only one device, the iron used any power at all....they rest was done by hand.

...

After cranking the truss rod and filing the fret slots there was a little more sanding... (I tightened the rod because it gave the neck a little back bow which eased the filing on the slots a bit.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Next up is the installation (or should I say endless fine sanding, cursing and smashing with a hammer) of the fret markers (some white binding measuring .040 inches). In all seriousness they were hammered in with a friggin ****** hammer not made for this type of work...but it got the job done. I also had to sand in a 12" radius on the bottom of each of these little plastic pieces...annoying.

...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

More of the fret markers AND GLUE...used THIN CA glue, which is a PITA to work with and after wet sanding off the amount that got on my fingers (A LOT!) I continued to do the rest of the board.

...

Next is the cutting of the excess tops and clipping of the ends of the fret markers... usually done with a small hobby saw... I used one of my beater Japanese kitchen knives...basically a 6 inch razor and some old wire cutters...worked great and I still have all my fingers.

...

...

Next was the sanding of the entire board and sides again in order to get the markers flush with the wood...again using a 12" radius sanding block with 320 grit paper.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

...

...

Notice the wax still around that fretboard dot.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Rollling the fingerboard edges (sanding and smoothing out the sharp edges of the fingerboard). Used a hard felt block and my fingers...fingers worked better.

...

...


First coat of fretboard oil...at this point with the oil on I progressed through a 320, 600, 1000, 2500 and 8000 grit oil sanding... you could watch TV on the fretboard.

...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

...

...

Had to file the nut down as the fingerboard lost a bit of depth... didn't makes the slots deeper I flattened from the bottom...easier to control the final outcome.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

set up and ready to play...low action too (could go even lower)...4/64th Low E at the 15th "fret" and 3/64th high G at the 15th

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Everything used (except the finer grit sand papers).

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]


First time doing anything like this....I got lucky...real lucky.

COOL!

You took your time and did a great job, with no power tools no less. It has inspired me to renew my efforts to complete project "Onyx Jaguar". It will be my first time attempting such an endeavour and I shall use your post as my template; I should be so lucky as you...

Thanks for posting.

Truly Inspirational.

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

COOL!

You took your time and did a great job, with no power tools no less. It has inspired me to renew my efforts to complete project "Onyx Jaguar". It will be my first time attempting such an endeavour and I shall use your post as my template; I should be so lucky as you...

...

If you take your time, especially during the fret-pulling phase, you'll be fine.

Years ago, I did a similar defret job, ironically on a Sherwood Green Squier, and it turned out well too (if I do say so myself).

I used flat-blade toenail clippers to pull the frets and didn't need to use a soldering iron. Going slow is important to minimize tear out or denting of the fingerboard.

For lines, I used 0.020 in (0.5 mm) thick polystyrene sheet stock that I purchased from a hobby shop. I didn't need to spend much time cleaning out the fret slots, just cleaning out sawdust and opening up the ends with an Xacto knife (like the one shown here). Once the CA adhesive was dry, I was able to trim the very thin markers pretty close to the fingerboard with the Xacto and sand them flush.

Have fun!