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Turbosound IP2000 Review

Commenting on your left right out. A better use for that is to pan all channels except the bass and kick to one side. Leave the bass and kick at center. Now send that panned side to the Turbos. Send the other side to the subs. This keeps all your vocal mikes etc out of the subs while allowing all instruments including the bass and kick in the turbos. Really cleans things up.

Hi and thanks for the quick reply about the mixer panning.

I believe I am doing what you suggested, I Pan all the vocals to the left, which is the mixer left output, connected to the out front ip2000, and pan the bass guitar and kick to the right or percentage of, hence the right mixer output to the subs. Are we on the same page? I also use the monitor out to the ip2000 that is located behind the band for monitors, thus giving one more of control of levels and eq if needed.
 
Unfortunately I have been unable to find any documentation referencing the firmware and I haven't been able to hear any sonic difference.

To come back to the issue of the crackling distortion that some people have been refering to. I have had that problem also in my version1 and the newer version2 models. It would manifest itself mainly in vocals and appeared to be come from the top of the column where the piezo tweeter is located.

My solution has been to identify the connection to the tweeter by opening up the top speaker unit, and then snipping the wire to the tweeter, disconnecting it. Ok, I know that now I've lost the upper top end, but, in actual real life playing, it isn't that noticeable. There is still plenty of top end and clarity, and the distortion stopped.

Now, maybe the firmware upgrade addressed this problem by moving the crossover point for the tweeter to a higher frequency. I haven't yet been able to check by reconnecting the tweeter. When I get a chance I will try this out and report.

If this is indeed a fix, then sadly the version1 model wont be getting it, as there appears to be no upgrade path.

I have not had the crackling problem (that I know of), but it will be interesting to see exactly what the new firmware is all about....
 
My solution has been to identify the connection to the tweeter by opening up the top speaker unit, and then snipping the wire to the tweeter, disconnecting it. Ok, I know that now I've lost the upper top end, but, in actual real life playing, it isn't that noticeable. There is still plenty of top end and clarity, and the distortion stopped.

I've heard that crackling out of piezo tweeters before and have never figured out what causes it. One real weird instance was when I ran my SWR Baby Blue in 2 ohm mode by connecting a Peavey 210TX cab as an extension. At peaks, it would crackle (no clip LEDs lit on the amp). When the SWR's own speaker was disconnected for a 4 ohm load with only the 210TX, the crackling was gone even when driving the amp into clipping. Maybe it has something to do with the very high impedance of piezos?
 
I've heard that crackling out of piezo tweeters before and have never figured out what causes it. One real weird instance was when I ran my SWR Baby Blue in 2 ohm mode by connecting a Peavey 210TX cab as an extension. At peaks, it would crackle (no clip LEDs lit on the amp). When the SWR's own speaker was disconnected for a 4 ohm load with only the 210TX, the crackling was gone even when driving the amp into clipping. Maybe it has something to do with the very high impedance of piezos?

According to the SWR Baby Blue spec. it is rated at 120W and increases to 160W with an extension cab. My guess is that the tweeter is driven past its working range.
At 4 Ohms the tweeter is theoretically seeing around 118W and a current of around 5.4A. Depending on what type of crossover is being used, this may be considerably less. Piezos can be driven directly with no crossover, a simple capacitor, or a inductor, capacitor resistor array and will behave differently in each case.

At 120W it is probably working within its designed range, but at 2 Ohms it is theoretically seeing around 159W and a current of around 8.9A. This may be enough to push the tweeter beyond its designed working parameters. Another issue could be that if an inductive crossover is being used then the inductor may be driven to saturation which causes a nasty distortion.

This may or may not be the cause. Just conjecture.:unsure:

I could not find any detail on the output impedance of the SWR Baby Blue. You imply that it is 4 Ohm. This is a little unusual as most amps are generally rated at 8 Ohms. It must be a beefy little beast if it can run down to 2 Ohms.:)
 
According to the SWR Baby Blue spec. it is rated at 120W and increases to 160W with an extension cab. My guess is that the tweeter is driven past its working range.
At 4 Ohms the tweeter is theoretically seeing around 118W and a current of around 5.4A. Depending on what type of crossover is being used, this may be considerably less. Piezos can be driven directly with no crossover, a simple capacitor, or a inductor, capacitor resistor array and will behave differently in each case.

At 120W it is probably working within its designed range, but at 2 Ohms it is theoretically seeing around 159W and a current of around 8.9A. This may be enough to push the tweeter beyond its designed working parameters. Another issue could be that if an inductive crossover is being used then the inductor may be driven to saturation which causes a nasty distortion.

This may or may not be the cause. Just conjecture.:unsure:

I could not find any detail on the output impedance of the SWR Baby Blue. You imply that it is 4 Ohm. This is a little unusual as most amps are generally rated at 8 Ohms. It must be a beefy little beast if it can run down to 2 Ohms.:)

SWR bass amp are well know to go down to 2 ohms! That is one of the reason why they were so popular back in the day....... I have the 350x amp head.
 
Hi all.... so commenting on the recent post, When using mixer, I usually set the master out gain on the ip2000's at 0 or +1 db, this is per manual instructions, you do not want to overdrive them.

As far as the blue tooth pairing, too bad it doesn't have a memory feature, it can be a bit of pain pairing two or more ip2000 in stereo mode. I use an iphone to run the Turbo app to control the levels, eq and other parameters, a very nice feature and easy to use.....
 
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Hi all.... so commenting on the recent post, When using mixer, I usually set the master out gain on the ip2000's at 0 or +1 db, this is per manual instructions, you do not want to overdrive them.

As far as the blue tooth pairing, too bad it doesn't have a memory feature, it can be a bit of pain pairing two or more ip2000 in stereo mode. I use an iphone to run the Turbo app to control the levels, eq and other parameters, a very nice feature and easy to use.....


Setting the output gain higher doesn't mean you overdrive the outputs. You compensate by reducing the gain earlier in the signal path. Nobody really knows for sure what causes the high frequency distortion we have discussed. Running the output gains high and the input gains low is an attempt to increase headroom in the early and middle of the signal path. The limiting factor would be how much hiss you get from internal circuit noise when you crank up the output gain.
 
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I’m happy to report I’ve done two duo gigs with two ip2000 v2s and have had no crackle or distortion. They don’t even seem like they’re working very hard. I’m excited to check them out with the trio in a party bar environment and see what they can do! I’ve been setting input and output on the ips to 0db and using mixer control. Both of these gigs I’ve been at well under unity on master fader.
 
Got the crackle on a solo gig. Mic into A and guitar into B. Can’t get any volume without cranking input gain. Mic at +6.5db guitar at +2db. Maybe I’ll have to use a mixer. But that negates the easy set-up and transport factor. Any advice?
 
Got the crackle on a solo gig. Mic into A and guitar into B. Can’t get any volume without cranking input gain. Mic at +6.5db guitar at +2db. Maybe I’ll have to use a mixer. But that negates the easy set-up and transport factor. Any advice?


Try cranking the output gains higher and turning down the inputs as was suggested earlier.
 
I did that but there’s very little volume cranking the output and lowering the input. Found some success by putting all the eq at 0db. Will still probably need a small mixer for solo shows. Haven’t had the problem with a Mackie mixer on duo shows.
 
I did that but there’s very little volume cranking the output and lowering the input. Found some success by putting all the eq at 0db. Will still probably need a small mixer for solo shows. Haven’t had the problem with a Mackie mixer on duo shows.


The amount of gain you add to the output is the amount you can take away from the input; it's not much. So if you add 6dB at the outputs you can drop 6dB from the inputs and the output should remain exactly the same.
 

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