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U.S. Peavey Club

#24,981
Murivan said:
I have a question for the collective mind, it managed to kill the US Cirrus Thread (no more replies in days), so I hope it won't happen the same here...
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3rd Generation Furys have dual action rods , same for later Foundations. Both were 1996 releases.

The dual action rods appear after Peavey swapped bi-laminate necks for (likely imported) one piece maple versions.
They would keep using bi-laminate until the stock ran low.

Your 098xxx serial hints towards late 96/early 97.
 
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#24,982
Bassinthemudd said:
Let us know how they are, and if they fit. Rechargeable 9v batteries are typically oversized. And by typicality, I mean without exception (so far for me.)
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I was gifted 4 EBL LiIon rechargeable 9V and a dual charger from a friend that sold their 18v Stingray. I haven't used them in a bass, but rather in the 4 smoke alarms in my house. Reason being that they do have a solid 600mAh rating (like a good Alkaline), but only charge up to about 8.5V max. They are great in the smoke alarms. They go about 2 years before they drop just below 8V and then I charge them up.
Compared to a Procell, here are the measurements.
EBL: 44.9 x 26 x 16.3 mm or 1.76 x 1.02 x .63"
Procell: 44.5 x 25.5 x 16.5 mm or 1.75 x 1 x .65"
The EBL battery is pretty slim.
FWIW, my newer Procells are the grey ones, my older ones are orange and are a touch thicker.
 
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#24,983
mb94952 said:
So, any of you think Reverb sellers have their friends put stuff in their cart to create urgency ? There is a Cirrus 4 for over $2,000 and it's in someone's cart ? C'mon, I don't buy it...(Pun !)
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That shop is very active. The 2 Cirri that they are currently selling came from Germany (a private party, and a shop in Duisburg, both from ebay-kleinanzeigen and they were originally advertised for ballpark of 1300-1500 EUR).
 
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#24,984
Murivan said:
That shop is very active. The 2 Cirri that they are currently selling came from Germany (a private party, and a shop in Duisburg, both from ebay-kleinanzeigen and they were originally advertised for ballpark of 1300-1500 EUR).
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I see your point. I see the prices in dollars and assume it's a domestic seller, and yeah, I know, I know.

... But i still think people do that. :)
 
#24,986
bigtone23 said:
I was gifted 4 EBL LiIon rechargeable 9V and a dual charger from a friend that sold their 18v Stingray. I haven't used them in a bass, but rather in the 4 smoke alarms in my house. Reason being that they do have a solid 600mAh rating (like a good Alkaline), but only charge up to about 8.5V max. They are great in the smoke alarms. They go about 2 years before they drop just below 8V and then I charge them up.
Compared to a Procell, here are the measurements.
EBL: 44.9 x 26 x 16.3 mm or 1.76 x 1.02 x .63"
Procell: 44.5 x 25.5 x 16.5 mm or 1.75 x 1 x .65"
The EBL battery is pretty slim.
FWIW, my newer Procells are the grey ones, my older ones are orange and are a touch thicker.
Click to expand...
Interesting battery chat about size etc. on an old 2007 TB page relating to musicman basses but Peavey is also mentioned in post #11 for those interested.
I use the Ultralife (PowerBug) Lithium 9 Volt Batteries for all my basses with no space issues so far although some guys have had trouble with these having space issues in diff basses battery compartments. If interested in the Ultralife brand have a look at the second link ive posted..no affiliation to Ultralife (Powerbug) btw.
The Ultralife brand name is what they go by here in Australia..no issues using them so far and a long life too.

New Duracell 9V won't fit in my MusicMan??
Review: PowerBug Lithium 9 Volt Battery
 
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#24,987
Giffro said:
Interesting battery chat about size etc. on an old 2007 TB page relating to musicman basses but Peavey is also mentioned in post #11 for those interested.
I use the Ultralife (PowerBug) Lithium 9 Volt Batteries for all my basses with no space issues so far although some guys have had trouble with these having space issues in diff basses battery compartments. If interested in the Ultralife brand have a look at the second link ive posted..no affiliation to Ultralife (Powerbug) btw.
The Ultralife brand name is what they go by here in Australia..no issues using them so far and a long life too.

New Duracell 9V won't fit in my MusicMan??
Review: PowerBug Lithium 9 Volt Battery
Click to expand...



I’ve been using Lithium (non rechargeable) in all my basses for years…. Started with Powerbugs & Ultralife - now Energizer & even Amazon Basics Lithium…. They last a crazy long time (especially in basses that don’t get much use).

When they do die, it’s a quick burnout, not a slow fade like alkaline.

All the ones I’ve used are HUGE. Fatter than alkaline & more “squared” off edges too)

The battery covers on my Millennium 5 & GV are bulging out in the middle, not so bad on my Cirrus 5 custom (it has thin wood battery & control covers)
 
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#24,989
MNAirHead said:
BATTERIES - I'll remind many... those of us with an irrational stable can commonly test running basses @ 9v vs 18v

How?

Disassemble a battery and "short" the + and - OR buy a clip and pig tail the black and red leads.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what you mean. I get it, but are you saying turn 18v into 9v ? Will that work ?
 
#24,992
I have been using Energizer 9V batteries because they are smaller than some others. They fit into the Cirrus basses just fine. I did recently get some Procells and they are about the same size as the Energizer and fit just fine.

For what it is worth, the change to 18V as opposed to 9V was mostly to increase headroom for dynamic styles of playing. I would not run a circuit on 9 volts if it was designed for 18V as I see no benefit except perhaps less battery cost. ??
 
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#24,993
Sorry, maybe my approach is a bit too simplistic here, but for those basses that have a wooden battery cavity (as opposed to a plastic/metal box), why don't you just sand it down to make it fit the batteries that you want? I mean, we are talking fractions of a millimeter here. That's exactly what I did with my former G-Bass (the one that is now turmeric stained)
 
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#24,994
I was unaware that the cirrus or millennium pre could even run at 9v. Did not know that the energizers were a similar to the pro-cells in width. I get great life from the copper tops but they are snug.

Sanding one side of the battery cavity may be just what the doctor ordered. I need to take a closer look at my millenniums. Don't want to sand away the lip for the cover or ruin the aesthetic.
 
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#24,996
18v allows more headroom but this probably needs a bit of explanation. It's a bit like the difference in bandwidth between a 1mb connection and an 8mb connection and the difference all depends on what you want to do.

If you imagine you've got the vibrations of a plucked string on your PC as a graphic waveform a bit like this:

sound1-en.jpg


With a louder the note the peaks are at higher and lower extremes. For the attacky bits in a note, the sound would be relatively loud and show up as sharper peaks. Awaveform for a series of plucked notes might look something like this:

sound6.jpg


What 18v does better than 9v is pass on the extremes of those attack peaks (also known as transients). The extreme peaks normally need a bit of extra oomph to get passed on which the 9v can't do. Transients can also ruin speaker cones and blow HF horn fuses if boosted too much. However in most live gigging situations the difference between 9v and 18v probably isn't going to be that noticeable to fingerstyle players. For people who slap or tap and want the attack of their playing to be passed on faithfully to the amp or PA, 18v might make things sound a little bit cleaner and crisper, especially in a recording situation. It also depends on the instrument, I'd imagine you'd be able to appreciate a 18v preamp a lot more easily in a Status Stealth than in a Gibson EB-3, just because the Status is a much more efficient instrument (although let me add not necessarily better sounding to everyone).

Jonas Hellborg had a 36v preamp in his signature Status bass because he wanted to pass on as much of the transients of his playing as possible. I think he has a similar number of batteries in his Abe Wechter acoustic and it also drove the development behind his Warwick line of amps. I guess this means that in a quiet setting you'll get more of the power, more of the intimacy of someone's playing if they're doing solo work, but I can't imagine anyone ever needing a 36v preamp or being able to appreciate the difference in transient attack when playing in a band.

Some of the EMG circuits (and IIRC the John East preamps) are capable of taking anywhere between 9 - 24v. It all depends on what you're going to use the bass for and what other gear you're planning to use. Its important to think of the bigger picture as well. Its all very well having a bass that is capable of making sweet jesus love to your ear drums but there's no point in plugging it into an amp that is designed for bog standard fender type basses. The benefits are unlikely to be passed on all the way to your speaker. (taken from bass chat)
 
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#24,997
I know that running a Bartolini NTMB+ preamp at 18V vs 9V will get you 6dB more headroom, but will also drop the battery life about 25%. I think it has something to do with increased current draw due to the series connected batteries providing more voltage.
Other preamps do get extended battery life in 18V, though. It's a design thing.
 
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#24,999
Running at 9v -- I keep one of the pigtailed battery clips in my rack. I've had some "battery dies at unexpected" ( I leave it plugged in) and the batteries do fit in the box emergency/----problem. The only spares I keep are the tiny allen wrench, screw driver and a spare clip.

I have some basses that maybe see daylight a few times a year... those do not get $10 in batteries installed.

---------

One of our friends commented that disassembling a 9v is risky. This is a prudent comment. Here was the "clip" I was referencing.

upload_2022-2-18_1-28-20.png


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Do so at your own risk -- this is not the preferred method for most... is an option for some.
 

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#25,000
Hey clubbers.
I've got a 90s era Foundation, and it's got the later (post-Super Ferrites) p'ups. I don't love them, even though they do EQ ok and are present in a mix. It's that they're not quite "opaque" enough sounding for the heft I like... Any recs for a passive replacement?
I've got an old set of Bachs from ones of their reverse T-birds I'm thinking of using, just because I have them.
Thanks for your thoughts...
 
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