U.S. Peavey Club

[XsoGol]

Having owned T-40s with both types I'm of the opinion there's no real difference.

The blades in the toaster are below plastic. Want to sound like blades just raise the pickup to the same point as the exposed blades would sit.

Thanks @kodiakblair! Is $170 a fair price for that pickup?

 

[nickpc]

Couldn't decide which color, so I tried them all! Beautiful matched sextet EHX 6CA7s. Valve picture a bit bright, the glow is more soft amber blueish like it should be to the eye! Good Lord loud now with the added 115BVX below.

View attachment 4870601 View attachment 4870602 View attachment 4870604 View attachment 4870605 View attachment 4870606 View attachment 4870607 View attachment 4870608

Rainbow them, of course!

 

[kodiakblair]

Thanks @kodiakblair! Is $170 a fair price for that pickup?

I'm in Scotland so can't really comment if that's fair or not.

 

[XsoGol]

I'm in Scotland so can't really comment if that's fair or not.

That's totally fair! Folks in the U.S., what say you about this price ($170 for an '82 T40 pickup)?

 

[ctmullins]

That's totally fair! Folks in the U.S., what say you about this price ($170 for an '82 T40 pickup)?

Sounds high to me, but I'm a cheapskate. I have been keeping an eye on them for a while now, and when they do pop up, they are always a bit pricey, but not quite that pricey - maybe around $120 to $150 apiece.

The one that I have I got from a TB member many years ago for $50.....

 

[bigtone23]

I've been eyeing this for my Cthulu build...but...should I hold out for one of the earlier ones without the visible blades?

I have the toasters in my T42.5 and a blade in my RB45. There isn't a lot of difference, I do find the blade version to be a touch/hair/smidge brighter, but not worth seeking out. A very small turn of the treble knob at the amp will remedy that. I personally like the appearance of the blade version, but prefer the 1st Gen toaster 70s thing for being older and more funky.

Also, if you are going to install a pair of these in a bass. I figured out a wiring with a regular DPDT switch that can get the split coil option to use magnetically opposite coils, so you can still get hum cancelling when they are combined. When the T pickups are mounted and oriented in the standard way, they split to the bridge side coil, which are the same magnetic polarity.
When I did my T42.5-I wanted the inner coils active when in split mode. I originally wired them both up to ground out the red wire and mounted the bridge pickup rotated 180 degrees in the pickup ring to get the active coil to be inside. Worked great, sounded great, had 60Hz hum. No biggie, I'm used to and accept single coil hum. However, after thinking about it, this wiring hit me like a lightning bolt. It was a real "a-ha!" moment--a sort of ABY switcher box approach to the series/split modes. Rotated the pickup back, tried the wiring and was so happy it worked!

This particular wiring will split to the inside coils. If you want outside coils, just substitute 'neck' and 'bridge' wiring.

 

[XsoGol]

I have the toasters in my T42.5 and a blade in my RB45. There isn't a lot of difference, I do find the blade version to be a touch/hair/smidge brighter, but not worth seeking out. A very small turn of the treble knob at the amp will remedy that. I personally like the appearance of the blade version, but prefer the 1st Gen toaster 70s thing for being older and more funky.

Also, if you are going to install a pair of these in a bass. I figured out a wiring with a regular DPDT switch that can get the split coil option to use magnetically opposite coils, so you can still get hum cancelling when they are combined. When the T pickups are mounted and oriented in the standard way, they split to the bridge side coil, which are the same magnetic polarity.
When I did my T42.5-I wanted the inner coils active when in split mode. I originally wired them both up to ground out the red wire and mounted the bridge pickup rotated 180 degrees in the pickup ring to get the active coil to be inside. Worked great, sounded great, had 60Hz hum. No biggie, I'm used to and accept single coil hum. However, after thinking about it, this wiring hit me like a lightning bolt. It was a real "a-ha!" moment--a sort of ABY switcher box approach to the series/split modes. Rotated the pickup back, tried the wiring and was so happy it worked!

This particular wiring will split to the inside coils. If you want outside coils, just substitute 'neck' and 'bridge' wiring.

I saw this post of yours on another thread and thought hard about it...the config in the Cthulu bass I'm thinking of going with is Foundation Super Ferrite at the 24th fret (Ric neck), Foundation Super Ferrite in the classic Foundation 70s-ish bridge position (happens to be around the 48th fret when converted to 32" scale) and the T40 pickup most likely with the lower coil in the 36th fret/Peavey Patriot/Ric Bridge position. 6-way selector switch that does neck, neck-middle, middle, middle-bridge, bridge, neck-bridge and perhaps a two or three way switch for the T40 pickup to select different coils.

I'm open to suggestions on both position of the T40 pickup and the wiring. Thoughts?

 

[Chuck M]

An interesting shade of black:

Peavey Foundation Black | Reverb

 

[Chrome Dome]

Just met the seller and picked up the 83 T20,150 miles roundtrip,to save on shipping. NBD I think,seems like might have to shim the neck to lower strings? Trying to find the right size allen wrench to lower saddles. Overall real decent condition with couple dings on back on both horns. Does the T20 bridge not have the USA stamped on them like other Peavey bridges I have seen? T20 has the original knobs,and the truss rod cover,and the string tree,are there. Neck is real nice clean and smooth.

 

[bigtone23]

I saw this post of yours on another thread and thought hard about it...the config in the Cthulu bass I'm thinking of going with is Foundation Super Ferrite at the 24th fret (Ric neck), Foundation Super Ferrite in the classic Foundation 70s-ish bridge position (happens to be around the 48th fret when converted to 32" scale) and the T40 pickup most likely with the lower coil in the 36th fret/Peavey Patriot/Ric Bridge position. 6-way selector switch that does neck, neck-middle, middle, middle-bridge, bridge, neck-bridge and perhaps a two or three way switch for the T40 pickup to select different coils.

I'm open to suggestions on both position of the T40 pickup and the wiring. Thoughts?

Sounds great! If I was doing two, I would also try SFs in the 24th fret location and in the 51 P pickup zone-which is just a touch neckward from a J neck pickup. I would then put the T with the neck side coil as close to the 36th fret spot as possible. Then the bridge side coil would be sort of in the 70s J/Foundation spot. However, it's all sort of complicated and who knows how well the pickups play together.
Having the bridge side coil of the T pickup (and splittable) right there in the 36th fret zone really gives a very useful Ric HiGain bridge pickup vibe-both of my monsters mentioned above have the pickup split to the bridge side coil, which is close that 36th fret zone. Running both coils of the T pickup in series (and soloed) at that location will give a really cool alternative to the P bass tone. It's much like the classic T45/L1000 thing. It's location is not too far bridgeward from where a P bass pickup lives.
Using two independent SPST switches would allow you to not only get the split mode on the T, but choose which coil you split to. It's how the stock T40 wiring works on the bridge pickup: the Spin-A-Split activates the bridge side coil, but the phase switch reverses the pickup polarity, which then activates the neck side coil in split mode. This is where my 'a-ha' thinking was informed.

 

[BassikLee]

Candy apple black. Crimson black. I like it

 

[XsoGol]

Sounds great! If I was doing two, I would also try SFs in the 24th fret location and in the 51 P pickup zone-which is just a touch neckward from a J neck pickup. I would then put the T with the neck side coil as close to the 36th fret spot as possible. Then the bridge side coil would be sort of in the 70s J/Foundation spot. However, it's all sort of complicated and who knows how well the pickups play together.

Why the T40 pickup in the bridge position rather than the Foundation SF? I know you have one of your Foundations set up with the Foundation SF in its normal Jazz bass neck position and a T40 in the bridge. My thought in having the SF in that bridge/48th fret spot is solely because of how amazing that pickup sounds on my 32" scale Foundation and I think I want an SF in that position in all of my basses forever from now on

Having the bridge side coil of the T pickup (and splittable) right there in the 36th fret zone really gives a very useful Ric HiGain bridge pickup vibe-both of my monsters mentioned above have the pickup split to the bridge side coil, which is close that 36th fret zone. Running both coils of the T pickup in series (and soloed) at that location will give a really cool alternative to the P bass tone. It's much like the classic T45/L1000 thing. It's location is not too far bridgeward from where a P bass pickup lives.

That was my initial thought...I love the sound of a humbucker (Thunderbird...in fact, I have a 60s style Tbird pickup in an EMG35 shell that I was thinking of using in that position if I can't find a T40 pickup...but I'd rather keep this setup to all Peavey pickups) or split-coil in the middle position and my hope was to cop some of the Ric tone as well with the neck and middle pickup (whether the middle pickup is coil split or full on humbucking).

Using two independent SPST switches would allow you to not only get the split mode on the T, but choose which coil you split to. It's how the stock T40 wiring works on the bridge pickup: the Spin-A-Split activates the bridge side coil, but the phase switch reverses the pickup polarity, which then activates the neck side coil in split mode. This is where my 'a-ha' thinking was informed.

In theory, if you got to phase switching right, when the coils are split and one of the splits is paired with one of the single coil Foundation SFs, you could end up with some humcancelling going on, yes? Am I oversimplifying here?

 

[mb94952]

An interesting shade of black:

Peavey Foundation Black | Reverb

HAHAHA !!! Good one, Uncle Chuck.

 

[Murivan]

Just met the seller and picked up the 83 T20,150 miles roundtrip,to save on shipping. NBD I think,seems like might have to shim the neck to lower strings? Trying to find the right size allen wrench to lower saddles. Overall real decent condition with couple dings on back on both horns. Does the T20 bridge not have the USA stamped on them like other Peavey bridges I have seen? T20 has the original knobs,and the truss rod cover,and the string tree,are there. Neck is real nice clean and smooth.View attachment 4873625

A lot of Peavey basses (t20 included) are equipped with microtilt (1/8") while saddles are 1/16".
When in doubt you can use Peavey documentation: https://peavey.com/manuals/80370015.pdf

 

[58kites]

Thanks @kodiakblair! Is $170 a fair price for that pickup?

$100 is about right.
I think there are a few people here who might have a T40 pickup to spare/sell.
Unfortunately, I am not one of them.

 

[58kites]

Just met the seller and picked up the 83 T20,150 miles roundtrip,to save on shipping. NBD I think,seems like might have to shim the neck to lower strings? Trying to find the right size allen wrench to lower saddles. Overall real decent condition with couple dings on back on both horns. Does the T20 bridge not have the USA stamped on them like other Peavey bridges I have seen? T20 has the original knobs,and the truss rod cover,and the string tree,are there. Neck is real nice clean and smooth.View attachment 4873625

Looks good, I think you got a nice bass.
Yes, shim the neck (don't use the micro-tilt) to get your action down where it should be.

 

[Chrome Dome]

Looks good, I think you got a nice bass.
Yes, shim the neck (don't use the micro-tilt) to get your action down where it should be.

Thanks,yes I would prefer shimming the neck. Someone must have tightened the neck screws with a torque wrench? Upper screws will loosen,but the lower ones will not budge? So going to leave the neck alone,and lower the strings with different bridge saddles. The screws are stripped in the saddles. Ordeded some new replacement saddles.

 

[Bleecker]

Thanks,yes I would prefer shimming the neck. Someone must have tightened the neck screws with a torque wrench? Upper screws will loosen,but the lower ones will not budge? So going to leave the neck alone,and lower the strings with different bridge saddles. The screws are stripped in the saddles. Ordeded some new replacement saddles.

That works, I used the saddles from this bridge from a suggestion from someone here, it worked great!
Wilkinson Bass Bridge, #WBBCCR - CHROME

Good luck!

 

[bigtone23]

Why the T40 pickup in the bridge position rather than the Foundation SF? I know you have one of your Foundations set up with the Foundation SF in its normal Jazz bass neck position and a T40 in the bridge. My thought in having the SF in that bridge/48th fret spot is solely because of how amazing that pickup sounds on my 32" scale Foundation and I think I want an SF in that position in all of my basses forever from now on

That was my initial thought...I love the sound of a humbucker (Thunderbird...in fact, I have a 60s style Tbird pickup in an EMG35 shell that I was thinking of using in that position if I can't find a T40 pickup...but I'd rather keep this setup to all Peavey pickups) or split-coil in the middle position and my hope was to cop some of the Ric tone as well with the neck and middle pickup (whether the middle pickup is coil split or full on humbucking).
In theory, if you got to phase switching right, when the coils are split and one of the splits is paired with one of the single coil Foundation SFs, you could end up with some humcancelling going on, yes? Am I oversimplifying here?

The T40 pickup in the bridge has a tonal nice compliment to the SF in the neck/middle. My SF neck/T40 bridge configuration didn't last long, as I found another T40 pickup and went forward with my goal to have two T40 pickups in the bass. In restrospect, the two T40 configuration didn't sound as good as the SF/T40, but I also wanted a dual T40 bass.

Yes, one coil of the T40 pickup will hum cancel with the SF. SFs have two polarities, so assuming you have two opposite polarity SFs for your bass, a little manipulation/position swapping can result in getting hum cancelling when used with the preferred single coil mode of the T40.

 

[XsoGol]

The T40 pickup in the bridge has a tonal nice compliment to the SF in the neck/middle. My SF neck/T40 bridge configuration didn't last long, as I found another T40 pickup and went forward with my goal to have two T40 pickups in the bass. In restrospect, the two T40 configuration didn't sound as good as the SF/T40, but I also wanted a dual T40 bass.

Interesting...it may be worth me trying out the SF neck/T40 bridge config if I get a Dyna body I've been eyeing for the parts...

Yes, one coil of the T40 pickup will hum cancel with the SF. SFs have two polarities, so assuming you have two opposite polarity SFs for your bass, a little manipulation/position swapping can result in getting hum cancelling when used with the preferred single coil mode of the T40.

Excellent. When I have all the pickups collected for this build I may hit you up with picks of them all for a bit of wiring advice. Thanks!