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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
- Start date
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- club
@Bleecker
1985 Peavey Foundation Sunburst
Love the color of the fretboard on this example. A CL find. Seller was consigning it for a neighbor who had lost their son due to an illness. Paid a fair and reasonable amount. Glad the funds went towards the medical bills of the family.
EDIT: That’s the only ding on the entire instrument, behind the headstock.
1985 Peavey Foundation Sunburst
Love the color of the fretboard on this example. A CL find. Seller was consigning it for a neighbor who had lost their son due to an illness. Paid a fair and reasonable amount. Glad the funds went towards the medical bills of the family.
EDIT: That’s the only ding on the entire instrument, behind the headstock.
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@kodiakblair
@58kites
@DavidEdenAria
The ‘little annoying things’ get the best of me sometimes,…so it was decided to take another gander at the hex nut / truss rod issue. Took a feeler gauge to the 7th fret on the E string and it was >0.20” with capo at 1st.
Decided to roll the dice and put just a few drops of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil on the exposed hex threads. It sat awhile and the truss rod is now moving smoothly. Didn’t have to man-handle, heat or tap anything. Thanks for the tip on going counter clockwise first! No pops, snaps, cracks or strange screeches.
So should I completely remove the hex and lube it now? What is under the hex bolt? What is the recommended lubricants? and can someone kindly explain the insertion of a washer(s) and what the principle is behind this modification? Thank you all! Very helpful group here.
A couple pics as @Bleecker will want some confirmation! HA : )
Hex w oil in it, just a drop or three. No wood was impacted, used a small dropper.
@58kites
@DavidEdenAria
The ‘little annoying things’ get the best of me sometimes,…so it was decided to take another gander at the hex nut / truss rod issue. Took a feeler gauge to the 7th fret on the E string and it was >0.20” with capo at 1st.
Decided to roll the dice and put just a few drops of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil on the exposed hex threads. It sat awhile and the truss rod is now moving smoothly. Didn’t have to man-handle, heat or tap anything. Thanks for the tip on going counter clockwise first! No pops, snaps, cracks or strange screeches.
So should I completely remove the hex and lube it now? What is under the hex bolt? What is the recommended lubricants? and can someone kindly explain the insertion of a washer(s) and what the principle is behind this modification? Thank you all! Very helpful group here.
A couple pics as @Bleecker will want some confirmation! HA : )
Hex w oil in it, just a drop or three. No wood was impacted, used a small dropper.
The reason I say Vaseline is good is because it is pretty innocuous and is pretty unlikely to damage wood.
It also stays put when I dab a little on the inside of the brass nut (with a toothpick or something) and then can easily coat the truss rod threads as you reinstall the nut to the truss rod. The reason I don't apply anything to the truss rod is I don't want oil or Liquid Wrench running down the truss rod and contacting wood inside.
^^^What size and thickness of washers should I purchase? 2-3 correct?
On the reinstall, how many turns of the hex bolt should it be? Just wondering where a good default position on the truss rod would be when the bass is restrung with new strings?
On the reinstall, how many turns of the hex bolt should it be? Just wondering where a good default position on the truss rod would be when the bass is restrung with new strings?
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Good advice on the ‘drop or three’
I’ve soaked an ear swab with 3n1 oil and swished it around in there, that is if like this, the nut is open and especially if it has relief to see some threadding
Took a right angle pick and probed the hex nut to clean out crud in the depression and threads. Then ran a swab w light application of 91% IPA to catch any leftover dust and let it dry out. I pooled the Liquid Wrench in the bolt and then applied two drops that oozed down the hex bolt sides to possibly free up the base that was in contact with the bottom plate. Just didn’t want the liquid to get into any wood.
BTW, the smell of the Liquid Wrench wasn’t too awful. Much better than PB Blaster or ATF / acetone.
I have had a couple times where the rod didn't have much purchase inside the nut. Removing the nut and cleaning out various globs of glue, clear coat, wood filler, dried up polishing compound, etc... at the base of the truss rod cleared the way for a proper fit of the nut upon reinstall.
For washers, I get (and mostly use) proper truss rod washers. Fender makes a nice, thin brass version. Easy to add and stack until you get the right fit.
However, when the alignment calls for more than a couple washers, I use metal drum tension rod washers. They are thicker than Fender style brass truss rod washers and I always have a couple dozen in my drum parts drawer.
You mentioned for clarification that you did not have truss rod threads sticking out of the top of the nut.
If that is the case (and your picture confirms it) then there is no need for washers.
I think you're all set and good with the freeing of the threads you did.
A lot of marketing speak but not many details, like when they'll be available.
Very nice that the penetrating oil worked! The other method that works is the Mech method of using a soldering iron to heat the nut. This works really well too and I used it to get my Patriot nut unstuck. But glad that you got it freed. Agree also with the vaseline on the threads. I would say that the washer is not necessary unless you have no movement left which I don't think is a problem from what I see. Just skip the washers in my opinion.
@58kites
Thank you for the advice. No washers were inserted. Put a small dab of Super Lube Synthetic on the truss rod and bolt. Re-strung it with XL Chromes and got the action low and comfortable again. Plays wonderfully!
Beautiful T-40! I think all the raving about the tone on TB has a lot to do with the pricing these days. And most good ones left are very likely in their “forever” homes.
I’ve never seen one unless the original owner/purchaser ordered it and had the dealer install it. Then they could say it came with it but again I’ve never seen one that way box stock factory newI posted this elsewhere, but haven't received an answer, so...
I'm looking at a USA Millennium Plus and the seller is saying that these came stock with drop 'D' tuners. Is this true?
Yes, my T40 isn’t going anywhere. When I’m gone, that’s different but until then…
That’s the way I feel about my rare 2015 Gibson Thunderbird. If I can’t get for my family what it’s really worth before I go, it goes in the box with me.
It's true, Plus models came with the 'd-tuner'
