• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

U.S. Peavey Club

Pretty proud of my collection, I have had a few T-40’s over the years and keep selling them off, was my first bass in 1982, heavy then and too heavy for me now. These are all my favorites in terms of playability and tone!
Your collection are the models I like best in the Peavey line-up. The only thing I see missing is a Gen 1 Fury but your T20 covers that base pretty well, just heavier. And I prefer the Gen 2 Fury body shape over your red Gen 3 body shape. I sold my Patriot too, and I'm not sure that was a good idea. I also sold my 1987 blue Foundation with blue headstock and rosewood fretboard, that was a mistake, yours looks like it's may be the same model year.
 
Last edited:
The action is a little high, I will probably put a full wooden shim or use the neck tilt to bring it down a little. I haven’t adjusted the truss rod yet, I usually de-tune the neck to take the tension off and let it rest for a few days then put some back pressure on the neck as I adjust these old Peavey necks. I can usually save them and have only had one that I couldn’t because it had the familiar foundation hump around the last few frets at the neck heel. That usually happens from adjusting these with the tension on the neck. You have to take that off before adjusting these.
Take the neck off and put a shim in there, don't use the micro-tilt. I think the micro-tilt systems are just asking for trouble.
You can also get smaller diameter bridge saddles which will allow for lower string action. The saddles from a Wilkinson bridge work perfectly, they are brass and they look good and really help the Peavey trapezoidal bridge work correctly. The Wilkinson bridges are about $16 on Ebay.
2022-11-11 15.20.25.jpeg
 
Take the neck off and put a shim in there, don't use the micro-tilt. I think the micro-tilt systems are just asking for trouble.
You can also get smaller diameter bridge saddles which will allow for lower string action. The saddles from a Wilkinson bridge work perfectly, they are brass and they look good and really help the Peavey trapezoidal bridge work correctly. The Wilkinson bridges are about $16 on Ebay.
View attachment 5374306
I forgot mention that the saddles on the Peavey trapezoidal bridge are literally twice the diameter that they should be.
Not sure what Peavey was up to with the T40/T45 bridge, the T20 bridge and the Trapezoidal bridge.
After that, they woke up and started using a normal practical bridge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: XsoGol and Bleecker
Your collection are the models I like best in the Peavey line-up. The only thing I see missing is a Gen 1 Fury but your T20 covers that base pretty well, just heavier. And I prefer the Gen 2 Fury body shape over your red Gen 3 body shape. I sold my Patriot too, and I'm not sure that was a good idea. I also sold my 1987 blue Foundation with blue headstock and rosewood fretboard, that was a mistake, yours looks like it's may be the same model year.
 
Your collection are the models I like best in the Peavey line-up. The only thing I see missing is a Gen 1 Fury but your T20 covers that base pretty well, just heavier. And I prefer the Gen 2 Fury body shape over your red Gen 3 body shape. I sold my Patriot too, and I'm not sure that was a good idea. I also sold my 1987 blue Foundation with blue headstock and rosewood fretboard, that was a mistake, yours looks like it's may be the same model year.
 
Take the neck off and put a shim in there, don't use the micro-tilt. I think the micro-tilt systems are just asking for trouble.
You can also get smaller diameter bridge saddles which will allow for lower string action. The saddles from a Wilkinson bridge work perfectly, they are brass and they look good and really help the Peavey trapezoidal bridge work correctly. The Wilkinson bridges are about $16 on Ebay.
View attachment 5374306
 
I did the neck tilt on my other one but will probably replace it with a shim as well. The neck tilt cracked the neck in that sunburst t20. It’s a real beater so I don’t get really concerned, other than I wish it wasn’t! It needs a new neck as the rod is maxxed. I wish someone made a replacement neck to spec on the foundation!! I would be all over that!
 
  • Like
Reactions: XsoGol and Bleecker
I did the neck tilt on my other one but will probably replace it with a shim as well. The neck tilt cracked the neck in that sunburst t20. It’s a real beater so I don’t get really concerned, other than I wish it wasn’t! It needs a new neck as the rod is maxxed. I wish someone made a replacement neck to spec on the foundation!! I would be all over that!
Can you post a close up pic of the cracked neck?
You may be able to make the truss rod get additional turns if you put three or four washers under the brass nut.
Let me know if you want to try that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bleecker and XsoGol
Take the neck off and put a shim in there, don't use the micro-tilt. I think the micro-tilt systems are just asking for trouble.
You can also get smaller diameter bridge saddles which will allow for lower string action. The saddles from a Wilkinson bridge work perfectly, they are brass and they look good and really help the Peavey trapezoidal bridge work correctly. The Wilkinson bridges are about $16 on Ebay.
View attachment 5374306
If you’re only in need of the saddles, I found these on AliExpress for pretty cheap. They look just about identical to the wilkinsons. Getting 5 sets of saddles for the bulk discount, with shipping it came out to about $27, less than the cost of 2 Wilkinson bridges. Of course, they’ll ship from China and probably take at least a couple weeks to show up.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqtN2KQ
 
Ok here’s a close up
If the crack is all the way up by the nut, then is wasn't the micro-tilt system.
But the micro-tilt system still sucks.
I figured the crack would be at the heel of the neck, the cracks I have seen were there.
I was able to fix a Patriot neck that had a crack at the heel and going up to the last two frets.
I took some CA glue in a syringe and applied it to the crack until the crack filled up and then buffed out the area and the neck is fine now.
Your headstock area is much thinner than the heel obviously, but I bet a luthier could fix it.
That may cost more than finding another Peavey neck.
 
If the crack is all the way up by the nut, then is wasn't the micro-tilt system.
But the micro-tilt system still sucks.
I figured the crack would be at the heel of the neck, the cracks I have seen were there.
I was able to fix a Patriot neck that had a crack at the heel and going up to the last two frets.
I took some CA glue in a syringe and applied it to the crack until the crack filled up and then buffed out the area and the neck is fine now.
Your headstock area is much thinner than the heel obviously, but I bet a luthier could fix it.
That may cost more than finding another Peavey neck.
 
Mine has a crack about the same as at the headstock right along the line where the bi-laminated neck comes together. It’s stable and hasn’t shown any sign of getting worse. I will try your suggestion. I’m not terribly concerned since it is my punk beater bass that I don’t have much investment in. But I always keep an eye out for a replacement neck!
 

Latest posts