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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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I like it!It's a great neck. The most straight and true of my 3 early 80s wide/thin ones. I got lucky when it popped up for sale.
It's attached to this Frankenstein. Monster player with scary good sound.
(Dad jokes abound!)
Check with warpedneck.com. He has fixed many a neck for me and a couple personal friends. Usually, it takes one treatment, which runs about $100 with shipping. My Dyna 5 needed two treatments (one for the ski jump at the heel, one for the opposite/drop off at the nut), and that was about $140 when all said and done. It's great. You keep your original neck and it comes back factory straight.
It's a great neck. The most straight and true of my 3 early 80s wide/thin ones. I got lucky when it popped up for sale.
It's attached to this Frankenstein. Monster player with scary good sound.
(Dad jokes abound!)
That's cool! How are the controls set up?
It's the usual VVT, 250KA volumes, 500KA tone with .047uF cap. The switch splits the pickups to the inside coils.
The body came loaded with the pots, jack, bridge and a DPDT on/on switch. Since the switch was already there, may as well use it! Coil splitting made the most sense. T pickups split to the bridge side coil, but I figured out a way to do that opposite coil split. It's cool, the inside coils in parallel are pretty close to where a Stingray pickup is located, and it does sort of sound like a passive Stingray. Plus, since it's opposite coils, it keeps it's humbucking operation!
Oh yeah! Is this the one you flipped one pickup over?
It's cool, I have some 40 pups I'm going to do something like this with.
If you can handle short, rather than medium scale, there are two roasted maple Warmoth Warhead necks in stock. They'll be under $300 if left unfinished. I have an unfinished Warmoth roasted maple neck, and love the feel of it.
Originally, I did it with the pickup rotated 180 degrees. Did what I wanted, but did have the usual hum.
After kicking around some ideas, I flipped the bridge pickup back, keeping both pickups in their usual orientation, and did this wiring. Like the intended factory wiring, the neck pickup is split by sending the red series wire to ground. However, the bridge pickup side of the switch acts like an A/B box, selecting what 'hot wire' you send to the input of the volume control: the white wire (the intended factory series humbucker sound), or the red series wire as hot-which activates the neck side single coil and bypasses the bridge side coil.
I go over this in more detail in post #20941 on this thread.
This is my diagram on how to get hum free splitting to inside coils.
If you do the opposite (red to ground on bridge, white or red to hot on neck), you get the hum free splitting to outside coils.
This has been the basis of my #1 T40 mod, remove spin a split and repurpose the phase switch to do this splitting.
I've thought about that, too. I was actually going to ask if anyone had used it. It's an '83 Fury in gold, so I definitely want to keep it original if possible. It's really a matter of contacting them and finding the best way to ship to Texas.
I've also heard of a technique to pull the neck back, tighten as much as possible, and then start to loosen. However, I don't want to risk cracking the neck by putting too much tension on now that the spacers are in there.
I wish Mech was still here to advise.
I forgot to mention: The tech (formerly with the old Atlanta Bass Gallery) I have looking at the Fury also has a Patriot - his first bass, in fact. He talked about trying to revive it, and I told him about the Rickriot idea. As it happens, there's a neck Super Ferrite on Reverb right now. I hope he goes for it!
My B Quad 5 (tuners switched to Schallers after one of the originals broke).1996 if I remember correctly
Common sense would point out that all these years later there is insufficient lubricant on the truss rod to protect it when adjusting, and that also means more friction so the method of tightening used when new is not advisable?
Also not advisable to over adjust and then back off which unnecessarily adds wear and tear to the truss rod?
I carefully bend the neck enough to take the pressure off of the truss rod, adjust according to my best guess and then check it. 100% success so far.
: )
