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U.S. Peavey Club

#31,002
I just realized I hadn't posted my Millennium Plus 5 since I modded it. I realized after owning a number of these basses that I really loved playing it but didn't jive with the electronics. I replaced the preamp with an Audere 3-band and the pickups are a Bartolini split J in the neck and two split J's in the MM shell like Lakland originally used on their 55-02 basses. I installed a pickup selector switch for the MM pup and the preamp came with a mid frequency switch.

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#31,005
MNAirHead said:
How does it compare to the OEM?

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Millennium or Cirrus Preamp - WTB

I've given away a bunch of them through the years...

Does anyone have one they would sell or trade for?
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With the OEM I found myself only playing with both pups on. It was a really good sound but I wanted more versatility. Now the neck pup actually sounds good on its own, and I can get three other pickup combos. I still tend to play with both pickups on and switch between the neck and bridge with both bridge coils on and the neck with the rear bridge coil on.
 
#31,006
Just got this oddball Fury. Serial number dates it to 1992. Has some unique features, some or all of which are original. The finish is a purple bowling ball finish. The tuners are gold minis. The bridge is the upscale Wilkinson USA multi adjustable bridge Peavey put on the B Quad bass at about that time. The hardware is gold. The serial number itself is smaller and in a different location than any other Peavey of this era I've seen. The headstock matches the body, though the finish is flaking. I'm thinking this is not a mod but a custom order or a limited run. The one variation that has me convinced this MAY be original is the back of the headstock, which has no screw holes for what should have been the original elephant ear tuners. Anyone have a thought on what I have here? Other than a great bass. It does play and SOUND great...
 

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#31,009
bordinco90 said:
Good morning guys. I need your help. I just got a 1994 Peavey Foundation in a trade. What is the allen key size for the truss rod. The standard ones that I have do not work. Thanks!
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From Apple AI:

“USA Peavey Fury basses (1980s–90s) typically require a 5/16” (or 8mm) nut driver/truss rod wrench with a thin wall to fit in the tight, deep cavity, often used on T-40/T-60 models. Specialized, narrow-profile wrenches (often with handles) are recommended over standard bulky socket wrenches.”

You can get suitable Gibson-style wrenches from StewMac etc.
 
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#31,010
jmlee said:
From Apple AI:

“USA Peavey Fury basses (1980s–90s) typically require a 5/16” (or 8mm) nut driver/truss rod wrench with a thin wall to fit in the tight, deep cavity, often used on T-40/T-60 models. Specialized, narrow-profile wrenches (often with handles) are recommended over standard bulky socket wrenches.”

You can get suitable Gibson-style wrenches from StewMac etc.
Click to expand...
I dpn't know for sure but it may be that his foundation is not american hence a metric allen key.
 
#31,012
RJDJR1 said:
Older Peavey USA basses use a 5/16" (Gibson size nut), and a thin wall socket is often necessary. But the newer USA basses use a hex socket for which you need a 5/32" hex key.
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Yeah mine is a new USA Foundation probably around 94-95. Thank you for the information. All the other allen keys I've used which fit Fenders/Sires/Ibanez ect want to slip. I'm probably going to buy a ball end key.
 
#31,014
A few years ago I bought a set of metric and imperial hex keys from Harbor Freight for about $7 and now never have to look far for the size that works. Don't think a ball end keys offer and advantages and carry some risk as Chuck M notes.
 
#31,015
Chuck M said:
I strongly recommend you do not use a ball end hex wrench in a truss rod nut. That greatly reduces the are of the nut engaged by the wrench and makes it much easier to strip out the nut. Most basses will accept at T-wrench and that is what I use when I can.
Click to expand...

In a former life, I worked for a prominent socket head cap screw company. What you say would align with the training.

Things like the Bondus Ball Driver are intended for places with full access.
 
#31,016
RJDJR1 said:
A few years ago I bought a set of metric and imperial hex keys from Harbor Freight for about $7 and now never have to look far for the size that works. Don't think a ball end keys offer and advantages and carry some risk as Chuck M notes.
Click to expand...
Well the truss rod is pretty much stripped and I'm trying to get some movement out of it. The neck is straight under string tension and really don't need to be adjusted, but I want to see if the rod works.
 
#31,018
Hi all! I just realized I mistakenly posted the following in the Cirrus thread. :banghead: They were very gracious and let me get away with it. Ha ha. ... My original post:

Let's give the G-bass some love! I have the clip below queue'd up to the end, where I do a quick thumpin' n pluckin' clip. It's nice to have this one repaired and almost ready for action. Clip is recorded with just a touch of compression, all EQ pots in the center detent position. Enjoy!

 
#31,020
MNAirHead said:
for a few bucks a machinist can swap it...
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Well I have some great news! I was searching through my parts backpack that I keep in my music room closet and lo and behold. I had the exact hex key from Peavey. Not sure how I obtained it, but I was able to adjust the neck and it worked flawlessly! I'm so excited now! I need to rewire the electronics because they are super noisy.
 
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