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U.S. Peavey Club

NFD

Arrived today. It's in pretty nice shape. Doing the finishing touches on a set up and cleaning. It's got the magic.

Interestingly (or not), it's an early '84 with the 2nd gen logo. Never seen that before.

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Oh OK.. thank. I was wondering.. Very cool...

There was a thread going in the Amps subforum. JimmyM apparently got banned for a month. I don't know why as discussing that stuff is against the rules. We started a JimmyM Ampeg Knowledgebase and Plain Talk Fan Appreciation Club thread. Several of us changed our avators to his. One of the guys posted a t-shirt design that is hilarious.

The thread has now been moved to the Lobby, I think, but you can still find a link to it in Amps, too. :D
 
Chip Todd is the "T" in T40.... he was the gunsmith hired to focus on exact duplication via CNC

Yep. He was also a master machinist and was big into drag racing in his younger years in the Corpus Christi area. Last time I talked to him he was there living with his daughter. He credited every bit of the sound of the T40 to the designers and fabricators of the pick ups on that bass.
 
Here is my new Foundation. This bass comes straight out of Tim's private stock of Peaveys. All I can say it was well worth the wait (story in itself). It came setup exactly as I would have asked for it. The action is so low, I may have to raise it.....(can not believe I am saying that). It pllays like butter. I know everyone uses that statement, but it really does. My Fury is going to get a lot less play time now. These pictures can not do it justice, I will try to get some better ones up.

Thanks again Tim.
 
Here is my new Foundation. This bass comes straight out of Tim's private stock of Peaveys. All I can say it was well worth the wait (story in itself). It came setup exactly as I would have asked for it. The action is so low, I may have to raise it.....(can not believe I am saying that). It pllays like butter. I know everyone uses that statement, but it really does. My Fury is going to get a lot less play time now. These pictures can not do it justice, I will try to get some better ones up.

Thanks again Tim.

Beautiful!!!
 
How do you guys take care of the natural finish basses?

Back when I ordered this, the word on the street was to tung oil it... I'm not certain this was the right thing to do.

I've used Dunlop 66 oil.. any better suggestions?
I've always used lemon oil on my koa Unity.. Has worked great. Use boiled linseed oil for the fretboards.. Not sure how that would work on the body though.
 
I've always used lemon oil on my koa Unity.. Has worked great. Use boiled linseed oil for the fretboards.. Not sure how that would work on the body though.


Bodies are always the funkier thing... we want to keep away strange discoloration... issue is that an organic oil will wear through.

There's supposed to be a gun stock oil that will let it patina and give a little blend and protection.

For rosewood necks, I was always told to NOT oil them.. just a few drops on a rag to move around the grime... but never soak them. The guys who taught me noted that there's enough grease and oil on our hands to do the job...

I sold my Alembics as they started looking like beaten lumber piles... Rarely played my natural Cirrus for the same reason.
 
Bodies are always the funkier thing... we want to keep away strange discoloration... issue is that an organic oil will wear through.

There's supposed to be a gun stock oil that will let it patina and give a little blend and protection.

For rosewood necks, I was always told to NOT oil them.. just a few drops on a rag to move around the grime... but never soak them. The guys who taught me noted that there's enough grease and oil on our hands to do the job...

I sold my Alembics as they started looking like beaten lumber piles... Rarely played my natural Cirrus for the same reason.
So what kind of oil did the factory use on them?
 
This is posted over at the Peavey forums.

Oil-finish Cleaning Tips

The following tips should be taken into consideration to retain the good looks of your oil-finished instrument:

Wash hands thoroughly before playing to minimize the effects of excessive dirt and skin acids. Wipe the instrument down with a soft, dry cloth after each use. The oil finish should be cleaned and replenished periodically, such as during string changes. We recommend using Peavey Lemon-oil for this but many of the commercially available fingerboard or lemon oils are suitable. Do not use oils containing stains or pigments as they may stain the instrument. Also, do not apply a paste wax to the neck. Paste wax is fine for oil finishes on instrument bodies and furniture, but it can cause a wax build up resulting in a "sticky" or "gummy" neck feel. Do not use water or alcohol-based polishes on the oil finished neck surface. They can raise the wood grain resulting in a rough surface texture and possibly cause damage to the neck.

Using a soft, clean cloth; apply only enough oil to moisten the wood surface. Allow the oil to absorb into the wood for a few minutes, and then wipe off any excess. If excessively dirty, apply the oil using a soft-bristled toothbrush, and gently scrub the surface to loosen and remove any dirt and grime. Wipe off any excess.
 
Here, I may as well finally post some pics of my guys
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(got for $20 because neck is beyond repair so I'm routing in a hole where the pups are for a clock face n hanging as it is still quite lovely as a wall piece)
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My love of these started with that foundation. I played with one string and most of the hardware missing as kind of a gag at my hs jazz rehearsal because it was laying in the back room and had been for 22 years. Even in such rough shape I was impressed so I fixed it up and daaaang! Me likes the usa peaveys now!