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U.S. Peavey Club

That's a nice color. Congrats ubnomar. BTW i ended up putting the TI's on bought from you on my Millennium. they sound fantastic.

I saw your Millennium post... what a beauty... blue & blonde. Glad you're putting the TI's to great use. I'm still a huge fan and will definitely play them again. I went the "low tension" route for about a year and now I'm going the opposite direction. I'm enjoying some heavier gauge/higher tension Circle K Balanced string sets.

However, I've also been hankering to put a set of Chrome flats on something, and I have a set for the Foundation 2000. All my other basses have round wounds and it's nice to play flats for a change of pace.
 
All this talk of the Peavey Foundation 2000 inspired me to post pics of mine.

Payed $250 for it and it was new old stock as well. It still has the plastic on the electronic cover and it's in near mint condition! :bassist:

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All this talk of the Peavey Foundation 2000 inspired me to post pics of mine.

Payed $250 for it and it was new old stock as well. It still has the plastic on the electronic cover and it's in near mint condition! :bassist:

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Great looking Foundation 2000 5-string. What's the bridge string spacing on this one?

I owned both an earlier Dyna Bass (super ferrite) 5-string and a Foundation (Peavey soapbar single coil) 5-string and they both had .625" (16mm) bridge string spacing.
 
The Axcelerator 5 landed yesterday. Needs a good setup and fresh strings but I think it'll be a great bass!

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I really dig the Wilkinson bridge. I've never had a bass with one on it before.

The Wilkinson bridge is kind of wonky. The notches in the saddles are offset to one side and when adjusting sometimes the screw on the long side will lift off the plate due only to the unevenly distributed tension. While the bridge looks cool, IMO this seems to be a design flaw. I don't know why they didn't center the notch like most other bridges. Other than that however, it doesn't really seem to affect playability.
 
The Wilkinson bridge is kind of wonky. The notches in the saddles are offset to one side and when adjusting sometimes the screw on the long side will lift off the plate due only to the unevenly distributed tension. While the bridge looks cool, IMO this seems to be a design flaw. I don't know why they didn't center the notch like most other bridges. Other than that however, it doesn't really seem to affect playability.

It's more that the adjusting screw is down one of the sides - not the middle
 
The set screw that locks the intonation screw down has to be loosened and re-tightened when changing the string height. Especially when it is raised. Mine's fine.

mech

Good tip Mech! I've also found that I have to loosen the string sometimes, rock the saddle level and then re-tune. A pain but I will loosen and re-tighten the set screw from now on. Hadn't thought about that before.
 
Anyone got ideas? I’ve got a Dyna-Bass in need of adjustment…

Symptom? Got some buzz on frets closer to horn/body. The buzz wasn't there when it was parked in the case last fall. There's some relief in the neck-string height is different between various frets and the lower edge of the same string being measured. Would any photos from the neck, help with this question?

Minor Problem? Obviously, the geometry could be way off. However, this 'well adjusted' five-string Dyna-Bass sat for awhile in a HSC with avg. humidity & temperature controlled environment.

The next post contains setup information from the Dyna-Bass 5 manual.

Disclaimer:
We've all read or heard advice about turning the truss rod no more than ¼ turn per day if necessary, and other handy advice to not create damage, or unnecessary frustration!

Another obvious point...some users follow the factory manual step by step, while others develop their own set of steps to follow. Still others should never touch a wrench. :D

Setup Tools (see photo, below).
 

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Paraphrase of steps in Peavey Dyna 5 Manual…
(OP has five-string version)

1. Adjust Truss (Torsion) Rod. (To adjust straightness, or relief) Tune the instrument, check for clearance between strings & first fret, clearance should be no less than 1/32” and no more than 1/16” at the first fret, check for clearance strings and the twelfth fret, clearance should be no less than 1/16” and 1/4“ at the twelfth fret. To increase clearance-loosen the truss rod (counterclockwise), to decrease clearance-tighten (clockwise).
Repeat above steps until proper clearance is achieved.

2. Adjust Neck Tilt. Relieve string tension by detuning bass 1-2 steps, on neck plate in back of instrument-loosen the two screws closest to headstock-1 turn each, loosen remaining screws-2 turns each (the 2 final screws are closest to bridge), adjust string height with 1/8 allen wrench by placing wrench in the hole located in neck plate-near the 4 screws. Turning the wrench clockwise raises end of the neck-bringing strings closer to fretboard, or turn counterclockwise to move strings further from fretboard. After adjustment tighten the screws-using equal pressure or torque on screws, tune bass, and repeat neck tilt adjustment as necessary.

3. String Spacing Bridge Adjustment. Roller wheels on Schaller bridge allow for the user to select narrow, or wider string spacing. Start with outside wheels, and adjust each to desired outside spacing, and adjust inside wheels for equal spacing after outside spacing is already set.

4. String Height Bridge Adjustment. The individual saddles work in conjunction with the neck tilt to determine overall string height. Individual saddles can be adjusted to follow the curvature of the fretboard to maximize sting/fret adjustment (8” radius). This adjustment requires accurate gauges.

5. String Intonation. (not considered in this post).