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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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Right fellas here we are.
I haven't reduced them so you can zoom-in. The orange cap on the volume says 102 and the larger cap going to the bridge says 103.
Both pots are 250K and I'm sorry but my eyes can't make out any markings on the wee stripey fella between vol and tone
I haven't reduced them so you can zoom-in. The orange cap on the volume says 102 and the larger cap going to the bridge says 103.
Both pots are 250K and I'm sorry but my eyes can't make out any markings on the wee stripey fella between vol and tone
I think I'm good, I actually found the harness, it just needs a new jack. I thought it went to another project. I guess I need to clean up.
Still waiting on the body to come in (3 months and counting...) but getting the rest of the parts polished and ready.
Still waiting on the body to come in (3 months and counting...) but getting the rest of the parts polished and ready.
Jack is a switchcraft
I'll get the Chromes on
but never hesitate to ask brother,always happy to try and help.
No point in me being on the forum otherwise
I'll get the Chromes on
but never hesitate to ask brother,always happy to try and help.No point in me being on the forum otherwise
The only difference from a P Bass is a .001mF that goes between the high side and wiper of the Vol control. It bypasses a taste of highs as the volume is turned down. Good feature.
Count me in! I just picked up a TL-5 for surprisingly good money yesterday. I've been looking for a five string for a whole, and it's tough to say no to a neck through, US-made for less than a new Squier. Whoever owned this before didn't take very good care of it, so I had to give it a few good coatings of Fretboard oil. It's not a closet queen, but even with the high action (still need to get a box wrench that fits), it plays great. Anyone know where to get a truss rod cover or a battery box? Both seem to have been lost to time.
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I posted this over at the T-40 club, but as these are my US Peavey's I should probably put it here too.
"Finally got a tolerable picture of my T-Family.
'79 T-40, '81 T-45. Both are in quite good shape as are their original cases. Also, my frankenbass which began as a T-40 with Darkstars, though now the only Peavey Parts are the Neck, Tuners, and Plate. I do love the T-40 neck and bold woodgrain! I'm pretty happy and content with these. A T-20 would be fun, but I had a Patriot for a while and it wasn't my cup-o-tea. A fretless T-Series would be cool also, but I prefer a naked board and I've already got my fretless (bass) base covered."
Link Removed
"Finally got a tolerable picture of my T-Family.
'79 T-40, '81 T-45. Both are in quite good shape as are their original cases. Also, my frankenbass which began as a T-40 with Darkstars, though now the only Peavey Parts are the Neck, Tuners, and Plate. I do love the T-40 neck and bold woodgrain! I'm pretty happy and content with these. A T-20 would be fun, but I had a Patriot for a while and it wasn't my cup-o-tea. A fretless T-Series would be cool also, but I prefer a naked board and I've already got my fretless (bass) base covered."
Link Removed
Nice looking family.
I've been doing very well lately, not buying any basses...until yesterday.
This came up on craigslist at a shamefully low price, the owner was told that the truss rod was broken but after taking a look I think it was just maxed out, turned it back a little and seems to be fine. Frets are green and the clearcoat is gone off the treble side of the neck, a few small dings on the body and the missing knobs...other than that pretty great.
I've been doing very well lately, not buying any basses...until yesterday.
This came up on craigslist at a shamefully low price, the owner was told that the truss rod was broken but after taking a look I think it was just maxed out, turned it back a little and seems to be fine. Frets are green and the clearcoat is gone off the treble side of the neck, a few small dings on the body and the missing knobs...other than that pretty great.
Thanks for the clarification on that. First glance at the far right was a major huh WT? moment. 
Great find! Should be a nice project getting it back into service. What are you going to do about the back of the neck? My Franken-T-40 originally had really battered neck finish so I just sanded it off and put on several coats of hand-rubbed poly. For the knobs, I like the radio shack aluminum cap black plastic knobs that you see on my frankenbass. Invalid Link Removed Kind of the reverse of the black/silver originals and a good deal too.
I have 2 knobs (From a old Fury project), so a total of 3. I think I'll pick the last one off ebay or something. I also have another neck that I'm going to throw on so I can take my time cleaning up the original one.
It's not the back of the neck it's the edge of the treble side that is bad. It was actually together when I got it, I just took it apart because it had a nasty accumulation of filth all over.
I played it a few minutes when I got home and it was still together, I was surprised at the difference of the pickups. These blade pickups seemed hotter and different...or maybe I'm trying to invent a reason to keep a 2nd T-40.
EDIT: Fixed link 9/11
T-40 infosheet | Page 3 | TalkBass.com
I've got toasters in my T-40 and even taking into account pickup position, there's a marked difference in tone between them and the blade pup in my recently acquired T-45. I was expecting something subtle, but the difference is in-your-face.
No need to "invent", your ears are telling you the truth. The two pickups are sonically and structurally different, not just in cosmetics. The blade pickups are much hotter and brighter sounding. The toasters are much mellower and deeper. It's not in the "infosheet" in my sig but a former Peavey employee sent me some information about the different pickups. You can read it here:
T-40 infosheet | Page 3 | TalkBass.com
I've got toasters in my T-40 and even taking into account pickup position, there's a marked difference in tone between them and the blade pup in my recently acquired T-45. I was expecting something subtle, but the difference is in-your-face.
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This is my one owner 1987 Dyna bass that I special ordered and bought new in 1987. It's still looks like it did the day I received it. I don't play it much because I play my fivers all the time, but don't plan to ever get rid of it.
I haven't reduced them so you can zoom-in. The orange cap on the volume says 102 and the larger cap going to the bridge says 103.
Both pots are 250K and I'm sorry but my eyes can't make out any markings on the wee stripey fella between vol and tone
The stripey object is a resistor. Reading the colors in order tells you its value.
I can't really tell what that wiring setup is doing. It seems altered from a basic P bass setup, where there would be a capacitor on the tone pot and a straight connection between jack ground and bridge, no capacitor.
Edit to add: I see there is a Fury on page 3 of this thread with basically the same wiring. Apparently the capacitor between jack and bridge was a concern about "safety" (presumably ground loops), I'm skeptical about its effectiveness for that, but whatever. Anyway, I'm sure the wiring works, but it is not quite the same as stock P bass wiring.
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This is my one owner 1987 Dyna bass that I special ordered and bought new in 1987. It's still looks like it did the day I received it. I don't play it much because I play my fivers all the time, but don't plan to ever get rid of it.
Nice one!
