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U.S. Peavey Club

Compare the differences in tone between open strings and fretted strings. I want to see how much of a difference the Tusq nut on the USA Millenniums makes.

I'm not sure I'll be able to isolate that particular factor since there is so much else that could influence the sounds, starting with the fact that the U.S. and the BXP ACs have different preamps and pickups. Maybe I could do it acoustically, but I'd have to make sure the basses were strung with the same strings. Even then different woods are going to be a factor.
 
I'm not sure I'll be able to isolate that particular factor since there is so much else that could influence the sounds, starting with the fact that the U.S. and the BXP ACs have different preamps and pickups. Maybe I could do it acoustically, but I'd have to make sure the basses were strung with the same strings. Even then different woods are going to be a factor.

I just meant play an open note and then a fretted note on the same string. I've always noticed a difference in overall tone between fretted and open notes on the same string, so I've avoided playing the open notes.

My Millennium Plus 5 is the first bass I've owned with a Tusq nut. Graph Tech Labs claim that open notes will sound more like fretted ones on instruments equipped with a Tusq nut. I agree! I play an open A and then fret a C - there's no noticeable change in overall tone. This is the first bass I've ever owned where I'm comfortable playing open notes.
 
I just meant play an open note and then a fretted note on the same string. I've always noticed a difference in overall tone between fretted and open notes on the same string, so I've avoided playing the open notes.

My Millennium Plus 5 is the first bass I've owned with a Tusq nut. Graph Tech Labs claim that open notes will sound more like fretted ones on instruments equipped with a Tusq nut. I agree! I play an open A and then fret a C - there's no noticeable change in overall tone. This is the first bass I've ever owned where I'm comfortable playing open notes.

Ok. I think I get you now. Sounds like you've already done your own test! :)

I can sure check all of my basses though to see if I concur with your assessment and Graph Techs' claims that the Tusq equipped bass is more consistent from open to fretted notes.

But FWIW I like the sound of open notes and play them whenever I can. I like to maximize my chimey tone and I find that open notes chime better than fretted ones. I hope that the Tusq nut doesn't kill my piano tone.
 
Ok. I think I get you now. Sounds like you've already done your own test! :)

I can sure check all of my basses though to see if I concur with your assessment and Graph Techs' claims that the Tusq equipped bass is more consistent from open to fretted notes.

But FWIW I like the sound of open notes and play them whenever I can. I like to maximize my chimey tone and I find that open notes chime better than fretted ones. I hope that the Tusq nut doesn't kill my piano tone.

I haven't found that the Tusq nut kills tone at all but the tones are more even - at least on my bass!
 
Even though this thread is in the basses forum, maybe the OP should go back and change the title to The US. Peavey BASS club.
Other than that, make sure you post pics of that Millennium and give us a review Would'e?.
 
Even though this thread is in the basses forum, maybe the OP should go back and change the title to The US. Peavey BASS club.
Other than that, make sure you post pics of that Millennium and give us a review Would'e?.
Wow I sure am glad I have you to tell me this is The U.S. Peavey Club,otherwise I would be confused.It is whatever U.S. Peavey you have,bass or bass related. Was that good enough for you? :eyebrow::scowl:
 
Red T-40

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Chrome Red Dynabass

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Ok. My NOS USA Millennium 4 arrived at Noon today! :hyper:

I only had time to give it the quickest of test drives before I had to split for work, but my initial impression is WOW.


Some thoughts preliminary to a full review and a side-by-side comparison with my AC BXP Millennium:

First off the transparent blonde finish is much nicer than I imagined. It is a looker; very sweet with the pau ferro board and maple position markers.

It feels like a much more substantial and serious bass than the BXP, probably because of the 35" scale and slightly wider neck (1.5" at the nut vs. 1.575").

The sound? NO comparison. This thing is a monster. I'm going to have to do some reconfiguring on my BAM 210 to compensate for the fact that this bass can do all by itself some of the stuff the amp needed to do with my BXP and passive Foundation.

But here is the kicker: The Ebay seller misrepresented it as a Millennium Plus (an honest mistake) It isn't, it's a standard. Imagine my surprise and disappointment when I saw there was no Hipshot Bass Xtender on the low E. I use the ones I have on my other basses constantly and was certainly miffed at the thought of having to buy a new one just to get what I thought I was getting in the first place. (They ain't cheap).

The good news. I contacted the seller and they immediately replied with an apology and an offer to refund half the cost of a new Xtender, which considering that they had already taken a loss on it as NOS, I considered a fair gesture. Of course now I have to buy my own.

But as it is, my NEW $1,299 MSRP USA Millennium 4 (standard) bass has now cost me...$260 and change. :bassist:
 
The sound? NO comparison. This thing is a monster. I'm going to have to do some reconfiguring on my BAM 210 to compensate for the fact that this bass can do all by itself some of the stuff the amp needed to do with my BXP and passive Foundation.

I know what you mean about the output of these basses! I have a 300w 115 combo amp and I'm using a Hartke Bass Attack pedal through it. I've played a number of basses through it - a G&L L2500 Tribute being one of them. That L2500 Tribute has high output pickups but I could crank the volume on the bass with no problems.

I tried my Millennium Plus 5 through it and the speaker was farting out with the low notes. I thought it was speaker or the output knob on the pedal, but I just had the volume too high on the Millennium. I have to leave the volume on the bass at about 1/4 or the speaker farts out - I can turn the amp up and the pedal volume up with no problems.
 
Any opinions on whether the graphite reinforcements in the neck of the Millennium will provide enough stiffness to throw on a set of my preferred string, DR High Beams without getting another set up? Those strings have lower (at least perceived lower) tension than others. For me I think it will be helpful in accomodating to the higher tension of the 35" scale too.
 
Any opinions on whether the graphite reinforcements in the neck of the Millennium will provide enough stiffness to throw on a set of my preferred string, DR High Beams without getting another set up? Those strings have lower (at least perceived lower) tension than others. For me I think it will be helpful in accomodating to the higher tension of the 35" scale too.

Not sure, but when mine arrived I replaced the old set of rounds that were on it with a newer set of flats - no setup changes needed.
 
Any opinions on whether the graphite reinforcements in the neck of the Millennium will provide enough stiffness to throw on a set of my preferred string, DR High Beams without getting another set up? Those strings have lower (at least perceived lower) tension than others. For me I think it will be helpful in accomodating to the higher tension of the 35" scale too.

If the setup is OK now the only thing that should change is the trussrod adjustment. As long as the strings are close to the same diameter and fit the nut and saddles the same.
 
Any opinions on whether the graphite reinforcements in the neck of the Millennium will provide enough stiffness to throw on a set of my preferred string, DR High Beams without getting another set up? Those strings have lower (at least perceived lower) tension than others. For me I think it will be helpful in accomodating to the higher tension of the 35" scale too.

Put the new set on and give it a week or so before making any changes. With the graphite rods I would think that any changes from different tension strings would be subtle and gradual.
 
Put the new set on and give it a week or so before making any changes. With the graphite rods I would think that any changes from different tension strings would be subtle and gradual.

Ok. I'll probably wait a couple of months. The strings the bass came with seem to have a goodly amount of zing to them (Peavey Cirrus SS perhaps? They have black silk wraps if anyone can hazard a guess) and it may be that I will get used to the higher tension without a change. I'll give the High Beams a shot by mid-summer if I'm still not feeling it 100%. Otherwise I'll try some Low Riders on it. (They are great on my Foundation)

I think I'm going to love this bass. Full review and pix soon as I'm able.
 
Ok. I'll probably wait a couple of months. The strings the bass came with seem to have a goodly amount of zing to them (Peavey Cirrus SS perhaps? They have black silk wraps if anyone can hazard a guess) and it may be that I will get used to the higher tension without a change. I'll give the High Beams a shot by mid-summer if I'm still not feeling it 100%. Otherwise I'll try some Low Riders on it. (They are great on my Foundation)

I think I'm going to love this bass. Full review and pix soon as I'm able.

I know you're going to love it! Even without the Hipshot hardware there's such a difference in feel between the USA model and the BXP model, huh?
 
I know you're going to love it! Even without the Hipshot hardware there's such a difference in feel between the USA model and the BXP model, huh?

Sure is. And truth be told I prefer the look of the Gotoh tuners to the open gear Hipshots. I just miss the Xtender. Still I can buy another or switch off the one from my BXP. It might be getting a lot less playing time going forward.
 

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