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U.S. Peavey Club

My hairy ears generally don't care for most bass sounds that are considered hi-fi and modern.
I think I can hear the extra length of the 35" scale with the G-Bass, it has more life in the E string than anything else here.
Normally, I like simple passive single pickup basses but the G-Bass (with the Cirrus or Milli pre) can make a number of great sounds with a teak of the knobs.
 
In my quest to find as much info as I can on the 80's Foundation basses. I emailed Peavey Customer Services & a nice person called Aubrey sent me the following documents from old Peavey Monitor magazines from the time.Also check out the T-20 bridge on the Foundation in pic 1, and the Lilac coloured Foundation in pic 4.
 

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In my quest to find as much info as I can on the 80's Foundation basses. I emailed Peavey Customer Services & a nice person called Aubrey sent me the following documents from old Peavey Monitor magazines from the time.Also check out the T-20 bridge on the Foundation in pic 1, and the Lilac coloured Foundation in pic 4.
I would guess that the picture is just dark, and the Lilac Foundation is actually Salmon, like the one I bought from Ken R recently.
 
To all the hairy eared folk and mech, I would like to thank you all for your answers to my questions. Its amazing how much knowledge is out there when one owns a Peavey bass and has a question. Thank you all. Mech, thanks for the great pics of the 3 types of pups..i'll try your magnetic screw trick and see where the compass needle points on my pups loll..i'll let you know the answer later.
Its difficult for me being so far from the action as when you guys are asleep i'm likely out in the Aussie sun shopping and vice versa loll..I'm 8.5 hours ahead of the UK/Scotland and about 13.5 hours ahead of East Coast USA time and about 16.5 hours ahead on the West Coast of the US..I guess in between those 2 times is the other US time zones...i'm getting a headache loll Once again guys and gals thanks to all responders.
 
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mech..one last thing directed at you...this taken from my Peavey manual on the Dyna Bass..

Mid Control

A Mid Control has been included and is of the peak/notch variety.
This control operates with variable notch centers controlled by an eight position DIP switch located in the rear control cavity. Adjustments are easily made with a small flat head screwdriver.
THe variable notch centers are preset by operation of switches as follows:

1 ON - 6 dB pad on preamp input
2 ON - shift high from 2 kHz to 1 kHz
3 and 6 ON - shift mid from 1 kHz to 500 Hz
3,4,6 and 7 ON - shift mid to 250 Hz
3,4,5,6,7 and 8 ON - shift mid to 125 Hz

After owning this bass for 27 years I have not changed any of my preset DIP switch positions once I set them at least 25 years ago. I experimented about 1993 a few years after I bought the bass with the DIP switch setting and found the best mids sound that I could get was from the settings you see on the supplied pic of my DIP control. As you can see I found DIP switches 2,3,4,5,6,7 ON was the best sound for me presetting the rotary mids knobs when running the bass through a MKIV Peavey head and 1820 cab. Its probably explains why this bass is so punchy sounding in the mids when balanced with the bass (LOW) and treble (HIGH) knobs. Presetting those DIP switches the way I have dictates what you hear from the front mounted concentric mids knobs. Loads of different sounds when those mids knobs are boosted or cut and due to the way I have set that DIP switch. Hopefully you understand what i'm talking about mech and I wondered specifically from you if you have experimented with those DIP switch settings as well. It made all the difference to my overall mids sound years ago when I set the DIP switch that way.
Peavey Dyna Bass PCB Dip Switches.jpg
 
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Last week I bought a really beat up blue T-20 body to go with a T-20 pickup that a buddy hooked me up with.
Pickguard Heaven is making me a pickguard.
I've got knobs and pots in my parts box, and can dig up a bridge.

Now I'm looking for a Peavey neck for it.
I am also looking for a neck-plate & screws.

If any of you have a spare Peavey neck and/or neck-plate that you are dying to unload, I'm your guy!!! :)
PM me.
Thanks.
 
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@Giffro....Funny thing, mine is set the same. Gives good control of the Mids where I like it. The Highs need to shift down too so there won't be a blank spot in the EQ controls. FWIW...the same dip switch system is used in the RJ IV but there is no mid shift. It also doesn't have a pre bypass switch or balance. Uses a selector switch for the pickups.
 
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@Giffro....Funny thing, mine is set the same. Gives good control of the Mids where I like it. The Highs need to shift down too so there won't be a blank spot in the EQ controls. FWIW...the same dip switch system is used in the RJ IV but there is no mid shift. It also doesn't have a pre bypass switch or balance. Uses a selector switch for the pickups.
Thanks mech for checking that for me. It was the best sound I could adjust from that Dip sw. back in about '93 and its been great ever since so looks like the perfect setting.
BTW the pups pic you put up showing the 3 types...I tested my pups with a couple of pup screws and low and behold you were right way back on post #9851 when you said they were flat top active humbuckers cause that's where my screw magnetism test grabs the screws..top right hand corner, bottom left hand corner which by your picture means that the pups are correctly designated as Flat Top Active Humbuckers (NOT VFL's) on this second model '91 Dyna Bass. Case Closed..lolll
Thanks for all your help mech..and thanks all you other guys for the input that helped out as well. Drinks all round barkeep.
 
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