I have that same bass. Mine has the original pickup but I've thought about swapping it out for a Seymore Duncan like yours. Did you swap it or was it just like the photo when you got it? Just curious how the SD pickup sounds compared to stock on it.
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U.S. Peavey Club
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I have that same bass. Mine has the original pickup but I've thought about swapping it out for a Seymore Duncan like yours. Did you swap it or was it just like the photo when you got it? Just curious how the SD pickup sounds compared to stock on it.
Those new DR high beam clear strings are just sick. I tried them but just too bright and a bit too transparent for me.
HUGE difference. It is bright, but smooth and it rolls off nice. Lows and mids are perfect. DiAddarrio's (med lt) sound sweet with them thru my 700rbii
NBD and awwwwww CRAP!
Picked up a Milly 5+BN from GC used site - it arrived yesterday and I didn’t have a chance to check it out before rehearsal. So, got home from work today and proceeded to give it the once over. It had been described to my by the GC employee as appearing in new condition - which is true for the body, except for two small little dings.
The neck - I took the strings off to discover a crack which I hope is a finish crack behind the nut, and one of the screws from the string retainer had come out at one point and was half ass repaired - with the screw apparently being reset at an angle, actually penetrating the back of the neck at one point, and then backed off. The headstock cap in this area is ripped off. Also the fretboard is very discolored/dirty - not a deal breaker but it could look a lot better. It looks like it was played by a diesel mechanic on his lunch break - naphtha won’t even touch it.
So I’m pissed. I paid more than the going rate for the bass due in no small part to the GC employees description. I know - we all have our GC horror stories, but this guy seemed to actually understand what he was talking about. That’s what I get for buying a used bass off the internet from GC - I get that. So - here are a couple pics. I’m looking for advice from the Peavey Pros - I know I’m calling GC tomorrow to demand a substantial refund - but should I actually return the bass? Things appear stable - but has anyone seen a crack in that location before? Seems like an odd place for one. The string retainer hole - I want to bean the person that did such a god awful repair job. What’s the TB opinion?
Picked up a Milly 5+BN from GC used site - it arrived yesterday and I didn’t have a chance to check it out before rehearsal. So, got home from work today and proceeded to give it the once over. It had been described to my by the GC employee as appearing in new condition - which is true for the body, except for two small little dings.
The neck - I took the strings off to discover a crack which I hope is a finish crack behind the nut, and one of the screws from the string retainer had come out at one point and was half ass repaired - with the screw apparently being reset at an angle, actually penetrating the back of the neck at one point, and then backed off. The headstock cap in this area is ripped off. Also the fretboard is very discolored/dirty - not a deal breaker but it could look a lot better. It looks like it was played by a diesel mechanic on his lunch break - naphtha won’t even touch it.
So I’m pissed. I paid more than the going rate for the bass due in no small part to the GC employees description. I know - we all have our GC horror stories, but this guy seemed to actually understand what he was talking about. That’s what I get for buying a used bass off the internet from GC - I get that. So - here are a couple pics. I’m looking for advice from the Peavey Pros - I know I’m calling GC tomorrow to demand a substantial refund - but should I actually return the bass? Things appear stable - but has anyone seen a crack in that location before? Seems like an odd place for one. The string retainer hole - I want to bean the person that did such a god awful repair job. What’s the TB opinion?
That is one concerning repair. I don't like the big crack, but I think its more forgivable than the screw job on the edge of the head and through it like that. Definitely integrity is compromised. I'd be nervous restringing, though it may be fine. A big ol refund is what I'd ask for, or a return shipping address. Man I feel bad for you having to make a decision like that, that's a real bad break on what should be a happy NBD.
Oddly enough I play the same strings. I may have to go ahead with the pup swap then.
Also, do you know which pickup you used? Wondering if I should go with the "Hot P-bass" for the mid boost or stick with a vintage sounding pup.
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Yeah, sucks that they neglected to mention the botched string bar job. For sure contact them and let them know about your displeasure, but personally I wouldn't be too quick to write it off if you like the bass otherwise. If you aren't a perfectionist see if you can get a deep discount and then either live with it as is or fix it better. From the pictures you sent the damage is largely cosmetic so it will probably be fully functional either way. Keep in mind there was a hole for the screws most of the way through the head stock right from the factory. Now it is just a bit deeper and wider but maple is strong stuff.
You could make a decent repair of the hole by simply drilling out the filler and gluing in a piece of maple dowel in its place, then sanding it flush, drilling a new pilot hole for the right size screw and refinishing the neck. You would still see the repair if you went looking but it would be subtle and it is on the bottom of the head stock too.
The crack looks like a stress crack caused by the string contacting the end of the neck behind the nut. Again, just cosmetic. That happened due to having the nut slots too deep (looks like some of those strings were practically resting on the fingerboard!) combined with having the string bar too low. I am actually surprised to see the crack didn't make it all the way to a screw hole as cracks around screw holes are pretty common.
Anyway, fixing all that will be made more difficult because of the chip that came out around that screw hole. A few options come to mind if you are feeling ambitious/adventurous, in rough order of least to most effort:
1. Remove all the hardware from the head stock, clean up the chip and cut and glue a piece of maple (birdseye if possible) veneer to fit the chip. Then fill, sand smooth and refinish the head stock by re-spraying a burst around the perimeter then clear the whole thing. If you made the burst a bit wider and more opaque it wouldn't be real obvious without close inspection. You should be able to preserve the original lettering that way too.
2. Remove all the hardware from the head stock, fill the chip with wood filler and sand flush, mask the sides and back of the head stock plus the entire neck and spray the head stock in a solid color of your choice. My Millennium came with a black head stock face originally but it is a trans black maple body. Black may not be your color but something else might look good. Whatever color you choose you will still need to reproduce the logos if you want it to look like it could have been original.
3. Sand the entire head stock down to good solid wood. This would mean the area around the string bar would be thinner and thus less strong but I doubt it would give any trouble. Respray the burst and clear it, or leave it with whatever finish you prefer. You will need to reproduce the logos if you want it to look original. This should get you back to a perfect, like new, finish but is obviously a lot of work.
If it were me I would probably do option 3, including stripping the entire neck and refinishing in tung oil. That birdseye looks like a real beauty and playing that with an oiled finish would be worth the effort.
Hope it all works out!
I absolutely LOVE birdseye, but I would demand a refund!
What’s up with the nut slots being filed so deep? Are the frets worn down to nearly nothing? Because that is why you file but slots deep like that.
What’s up with the nut slots being filed so deep? Are the frets worn down to nearly nothing? Because that is why you file but slots deep like that.
The nut filing isn't too good and really uneven in height but I see the crack problem as a design flaw. The engineer/luthier didn't give any relief for even a reasonable break angle. That sharp edge will also cause tuning problems when the strings hang up. When I get one like that I file channels for the strings to pass through. A little touch up and all is good
I don’t think a shim would help in this case. The distance from the fretboard to the bottom of the nut slot should roughly equal the first frets height (as in a zero fret equipped bass). The slots on this milly would leave the bass unplayable unless the frets are worn nearly flat, or there’s an extreme amount of relief (bow) and a shim at the headstock end of the pocket, tiliting the neck forward, lifting the strings away from the board and body.
I’d already have this bass boxed up and ready to go back to GC.
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My apologies on the speed type reply.
the question was why someone would flile a nut ---- I've seen this several times (someone files the nut)
Sorry -- it's a nice looking guitar
My apologies on the speed type reply.
the question was why someone would flile a nut ---- I've seen this several times (someone files the nut)
Sorry -- it's a nice looking guitar
I am 99% sure this bass is going back - the only way I'll keep it is if they refund to the point that I've paid to buy the electronics and tuners. The more I look at the neck, I think it's way more work than it's worth. There is no shim on the neck - so I'm thinking that originally the nut filing was to compensate instead of shimming. But - there is a lot of fret wear as well - it looks like a re-fret, in addition to cleaning the sludge off of the fretboard. I'm bummed.
Sorry the bass is not as described. Personally I would return it. There is too much wrong and it will always make you feel disappointed. Return it and wait for another to turn up.
First thing i look at is the neck and frets....sludge on the fretboard? Doesnt bother me.
Worn frets are a deal killer for me....if this bass had excellent frets, was deeply discounted and something i wanted badly, i would consider keeping it.....but no, i would send this bass back asap and whoever described the bass condition as very good was incompetent!
Guitar Center incompetency and shady misrepresentation strikes again.
The holoflake green G Bass has landed. Strung it BEAD, made a few set up tweaks and it's a keeper. Doesn't have the sweet looking weave on the neck since I couldn't be that lucky twice but has good looking black paint that feels slick. Overall shine about a mile deep. One thing that's curious...it was set up from the factory for 9 volts. The Pearl G Bass is set up for 18. Can't hear any difference through headphones.
Of my five GV basses, I have two black necks, two very distinct weave necks, and one where the gelcoat is obviously like dark smoke. Translucent, but only in the right light.
Odd about the 9V thing. The Axcelerator I just got was running a single 9V as well. Sounds fine, but the specs say 18V.
Odd about the 9V thing. The Axcelerator I just got was running a single 9V as well. Sounds fine, but the specs say 18V.
