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U.S. Peavey Club

#12,483
Flake, black, burst, blue, pewter/charcoal. That being the case, I have one of my GV necks on a lavender Millennium body.

The holoflake finishes don't really make sense unless it's from a distance under stage lights.. they then look like a black bass with a little reflection.

That being said -- both of my GV are sunburst[/QUOTE]
 
#12,484
This one is pretty flake-y in daylight or indoors or under lights or whatever.
DSCN1774 (1).jpg
 
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#12,485
BassikLee said:
The SF pickups weren't really neck and bridge. They were wound opposite, and magnetically opposite, but voiced the same. Find out which way yours is magnetized, then find the opposite of that. Remember to wire one with red hot, one with black hot.

Your Peavey-ric is more done than mine. I'm waiting on some super secret SF pickups to try. If they don't work, then I'll steal the SF pickups out of my foundation 5. They are the transition ones, that just say "PEAVEY" on them. In terms of my Peavey loaded Ric copy, I'm thinking of naming it. Given that it will have genuine Peavey pickups in a fake Ric, the P will be upper case, while the R will be lower case. I'm thinking "Prick". Thoughts?
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Prick would be a unique one here in US Peaveyland! Jedi Bass calls his Patrick, mine RickRiot.

I checked this anemic pickup against the SFs in my Dyna and Foundation. It magnetized face to face with the bridge pickups in both of those basses and the stock pickup on the Patriot (which are all red=hot) and when I wired the anemic one black=hot, it hum cancelled and was in phase with the Patriot pickup, just weak sounding. I may take my chances on a single SF and cross my fingers that it is the RW/RP. It's not a big deal if I get the opposite polarity, old Rics didn't hum cancel, either. I knew that pickup had issues, but didn't know how weak it was until it finally was installed in a bass.
 
#12,486
JEDI BASS said:
When it rains, it pours!

Now, there’s also two 1516s for sale locally!! I prefer the sound of 15s over 18s. But, not sure how the two 8s compare to the two 10s of the 1820..... or how the 1516 (total package) compares to the 1820 in terms of overall bass cabinet. I would think that the 1516 would sound considerably different, with the 15 doing most of the work, and the 8s seeing a lot less work. Whereas, the 1820 would have the 10s working pretty hard, while the 18 adds push.

Am I correct, experts? Also.... which would you buy and why?

TIA
-JJ
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Help me out guys. See above
 
#12,491
Chuck M said:
So now FedEx tracking shows that my Millennium was delivered and signed for...but it did not come to me. I've contacted FedEx and they are checking into it. Somebody is a jerk for signing for a package they know is not theirs.
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The Saga continues. I had an online chat with someone at FedEx and explained what has happened with the Millennium. They gave me a case ID number and are looking into it. I received a phone call from another lady at FedEx and the bottom line is that they were going to have the supervisor talk to the driver and then see if they can recover the bass. If not, the seller will have to file a claim with FedEx on Monday if they have not recovered the bass by then.

I paid with Paypal and used one of my credit cards so I am protected if the bass is lost.

I've learned my lesson. I will always have FedEx hold basses for pick up at one of their locations.
 
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#12,494
The FedEx driver was just here. He delivered the bass to a house up the street and they did sign for it. He just knocked on the door and nobody answered. The may have seen his truck. I'll knock on the door in a while and leave a note telling them I know that they have my bass if they don't answer.
 
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#12,498
I'm not an expert on the 1820/1516, but have played the 1820 and once looked over a 1516 in a shop. The general appearance of the cab and the drivers in the 1820 are cooler being BW and Scorpions. The older 1516 had a BW, but Eminence(?) 8"s and kind of has a PA cab look to it. Both cabs (in full range mode) cross over around 300-400Hz, so the larger driver does the heavy lifting and the smaller ones don't blow up. I think the 1820 is about 125 pounds and the 1516 not much less than that. Have your hand truck ready! :)

BW speakers are rather bright, so an 18" won't be a mud machine. Peavey used to market the BW as "An 18 with the highs of a 10." The original recipe Scorpion, however, is not bright, they start rolling off around 4K vs 6-7K for a typical 10" speaker. That's where Scorpions are popular with guitarists: they are not fizzy sounding. For bass, that's usually plenty of high end. I have seen a few players have a faulty crossover in these, so they bypass the passive crossover and run both halves of the cab full range. It doesn't hurt to do a high pass on the 10" speakers, though, as they don't have a bunch of excursion. I have run Scorpion 12" speakers full range for bass and they work pretty well, though I don't do 5 string through them without a little high pass.

That said, the 1810/1820 cab is killer for distorted bass tones. I used an 1820 20 years ago at a shared cab gig with the 10" mic'ed (SM57 to boot) and mixed with a direct line off the head. Sounded great for my lightly dirty tones!
 

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