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U.S. Peavey Club

#13,001
kodiakblair said:
@warrplayer

1/16th fits the grub screws but it feels kind of loose. Could be previous owner went nuts. Next size up in my kit is too big (5/64). Metric 1.5mm is too small but 2mm is too big. Hopefully I can find a 1.8mm key and report back.
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Over the years i have accumulated many hex keys, so i use whatever fits the most precisely after trying a bunch first fwiw.....go slow and easy as well!
 
#13,002
DavidEdenAria said:
Over the years i have accumulated many hex keys, so i use whatever fits the most precisely after trying a bunch first fwiw.....go slow and easy as well!
Click to expand...
I've a great set of bits in my tool bag at work, torx/hex/security/pozi/philips/TX bore etc. Course it's no good being at work.

Need to pick up some drill bits for a job on Tuesday so now I know there's no 1.8mm key in this house I'll grab one.
9 hours till the tool shop opens, can you folks wait that long ?
 
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#13,003
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#13,004
bigtone23 said:
The Allparts wrench is just like the Gibson wrenches that have worked on the 10 or so Peaveys I have owned.
With rare occasion will that wrench not work, and that is usually fixed with a couple small washers to get the nut out of the hole or residual glue slip needs to be cleared from around the nut.
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Ok, thank you. I guess I'll order the allparts box wrench. Just wanted to check with someone because my concern is that the bass has been sitting in a case for over 30 years and I'm thinking maybe the TR will be a little tight so I want to make sure I have the right tool. Thanks again.
 
#13,005
jmlee said:
@mech may know the pitch of the thread.
Click to expand...

The brass nut is 5/16" hex with 10-32 threads.
The Allen nut has a 4mm recess and 10-32 threads.

Cliff Colton said:
...my concern is that the bass has been sitting in a case for over 30 years and I'm thinking maybe the TR will be a little tight so I want to make sure I have the right tool.
Click to expand...

Since it's been sitting so long, the first thing to do is take the nut off and lube it's inside threads with a very little Vaseline. Rust will form on the steel truss rod and increase friction which causes the amount of force needed to turn the nut to increase a bunch. The truss rods can take a lot of tension along their length but can't take twisting force. This is the most common cause of the threaded end breaking off.
 
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#13,006
jmlee said:
Is the nut stripped (inside or outside?) or the truss rod thread? If it's the inside of the nut, I believe it's a 3/16 threaded rod. @mech may know the pitch of the thread. I'd guess a US #2 or #3 nut would fit. You can get all sorts of replacement nuts of various geometries. There are tricks to remove a nut stripped on the outside.
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The nut is stripped on the inside where the hex wrench would go. Wondering if anyone has purchased one before.
 
#13,009
blip said:
Anyone tried the StewMac pocket truss rod wrench?

I'm having trouble adjusting my Foundation. Tried the allparts, but it wasn't deep enough. Got the StewMac long shallow wall nut driver style, but I can't get it to seat right. Can get close with the tuners removed, but there is just too much wood in the way to get the right angle. Would prefer to not remove any wood, but I can see how that would help.
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I ran into that with my StewMac wrench. My problem was that there was too much wood in front of the cavity, e.g. where the plastic cover goes. The cut was scalloped out of the wood instead of the later square channel. I could get the nut most of the way off, but had to switch to a Gibson wrench to get enough clearance to get it out all the way.

I'd try sanding down the channel a little. I'm assuming that "too much wood" applies to this area and not the part of the channel where the nut's located. The cover can mask any mistakes (and you can get a new one made at Frets on the Net - I just picked up replacements for my '84 Foundation and Fury). While you're in there, I recommend putting a few washers behind the nut. The early basses seem to have very deep channels, and the nut can be tricky to reach even for the longer StewMac wrench.
 
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#13,010
On my Patriot I had small chunks of wood down beside the nut that I had to clean out first. Once I did that, it worked fine.

I just did a setup on an old Johnson P bass that I gave to a new young player last week. I thought the truss rod was broken at first but turned out the nut was just loose....LOL. Never seen that before. It took about at turn and a half before it started to engage. No wonder the action was a mile high. Took it slow over a couple days and managed to get it dialed in really nice with no ski slope.
 
#13,011
Peavey experts after biting the bullet and getting a new neck hand made for my 90s fury (yes I know crazy in some people's books). I wondered if the bodies are nice with the paint sanded off? I love the natural grain black scratchplate look. I've seen a few 80s furys with this look. Any reason why a 90s model couldn't look as good? They didn't switch to chipboard or anything I hope?:)
 
#13,012
The 90s bodies are still some form of alder, poplar, etc... How good they look is not known until it's stripped. Often the bodies are painted to cover up really funky looking bodies with mismatched pieces, mineral staining, knots, etc... while nicer looking bodies were kept natural, sunburst or stained.
 
#13,016
Mark Andrew said:
Peavey experts after biting the bullet and getting a new neck hand made for my 90s fury (yes I know crazy in some people's books). I wondered if the bodies are nice with the paint sanded off? I love the natural grain black scratchplate look. I've seen a few 80s furys with this look. Any reason why a 90s model couldn't look as good? They didn't switch to chipboard or anything I hope?:)
Click to expand...
Do it so I can see what it looks like.
 
#13,019
Paint can dramatically affect the tone of a bass, either positively or negatively. I would NEVER strip paint off a bass I'm happy with tone-wise!

For example, I had my white Stingray Classic painted up with a fancy custom Marty Bell 3 color sparkle design. It was painted twice due to an error. I would be willing to bet the original white and first sparkle job are still under the current paint, meaning it's got 3 times the normal paint on it. But anyways, it mellowed the Stingray considerably. It actually sounds more like a vintage ray, a little less zingy which is fine with me.
 
#13,020
JEDI BASS said:
Paint can dramatically affect the tone of a bass, either positively or negatively. I would NEVER strip paint off a bass I'm happy with tone-wise!

For example, I had my white Stingray Classic painted up with a fancy custom Marty Bell 3 color sparkle design. It was painted twice due to an error. I would be willing to bet the original white and first sparkle job are still under the current paint, meaning it's got 3 times the normal paint on it. But anyways, it mellowed the Stingray considerably. It actually sounds more like a vintage ray, a little less zingy which is fine with me.
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All new terrain for me I have refinished a few old VW's in my time but never a guitar. When it comes back I will see if I can live with the finish it has now that has been poorly refinished I think as it's sticky in places.... Yuck.....My neighbour refinishes cars and would happily do the work... whats the difference in the types of paint that can go on...? Perhaps not the correct forum for paint questions but I figure the Peavey enthusiasts know this also....
 

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