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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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For the body style... Dyna unity
TL5 and 6 rock... the 6s I've owned felt better... That's just preference
5 Only takes a month or so to switch to - nobody ever says to play high and fast
Wow, I never knew they made a "TL4". I always wanted one. So, it's called a Dyna Unity Limited. Good to know. They are Gorgeous ! I love the pre-Cirrus controls of standard vol. blend, 3 band EQ. Nice !
Unity are cool... some had very high end hardware... ... with some planning and handwork, they can normally be setup with very good action.
Unsure why... periodically some get a bump around fret 12 ---
From this era, I still find the bolt on Dyna (the VFLish pickups) to be one of the unknown heros...
Unsure why... periodically some get a bump around fret 12 ---
From this era, I still find the bolt on Dyna (the VFLish pickups) to be one of the unknown heros...
Yes. If you don't need the bling, they also did a Dyna Unity in both sprayed opaque finishes, and Koa with purple heart in an oil finish. All those had black hardware. There's also a Unity series, which were very similar basses, but passive. P/J pickups, two volumes, one tone, and a rosewood board. The Dyna Unity, OTOH, had ebony boards like the TL stuff.
Im interested in joining - I just aquired my first ever Peavey bass yesterday , its a 84 1st Gen Fury w super ferrite p.u. all original .good /fair condition .. sounds great , i need some pointers on the neck . setting it up , truss rod , micro tilt , saddle height, etcHey guys I am starting a U.S. Peavey Club here at Talk Bass,please let me know if you are interested.Thanks Joe
Step 1
Evaluate if the frets need work
Step 2
Establish what strings are going on...
Step 3
But Allen wrenches..the allpats truss tool... A Philips screwdriver and a strobe
Without more information we're all guessing
My main question is the micro tilt adjustment..what can i gauge the optimal setting with as far as having the neck as level as possible -like a standard neck would be w/o a tilt adj. ?because i need to take relief out of the neck and i want the neck to be at its most basic setting at the neck joint first. I think that would be critical to have the neck at the joint right first before truss rod adjustments
First adjust the neck to get the proper relief. If the bridge saddles will then allow you to adjust the string height to where you want it then the tilt adjustment is where it needs to be. If the saddles are bottomed out and the strings are too high then you need to use the micro tilt adjustment.
Nice Gen 1 Fury.....love mine.
@basssolotake1 you are member #418
Welcome to the club!
+1... I've had an eye out for one of those or a T-20 for a while now... I could've grabbed one a year or two ago for under $200 and let it slip thru my fingers because of priorities at the time...
Yea. The strings are way to high and the saddles are barely off the bottom of the bridge. Im just hoping i can straighten the neck enough to get the saddles a little higher for better sustain and overall playability. Crossing fingers
I just got a 1989 Fury 2 last month for $100. Sweet bass with a nice slim neck and plan to use it as my P Bass alternative. I've been keeping my eye on the Fury basses for a while but haven't pulled the trigger until this one which was an unexpected purchase. I think most of the ones I've seen previously had maple fretboards, this one has rosewood - are most of the Fury basses maple?
My 1st and 2nd gen Furys are both rosewood or PF. Come to think of it most of my Peaveys are RW or PF.
edit.
Just had a quick count. From 55 Peavey basses only 15 have maple boards.
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My experience is that on USA Peaveys...
GEOMETRY
- The neck is arrow straight... (assumes frets don't need work)
- Then it's a combination of microtilt/shimming and "raising" the bridge saddles to achieve uniform low action
My Axcellerator has slight relief that for some reason I can't get out of it... the action is useable... periocially on Fury and Foundations, they may have bad necks from "over tuning" and forgetting
----
NUTS & BRIDGES
I've setup about 400 USA Peaveys, I've never had to file the nut... about 10% of the time, I've spent time on the bridge saddles (examples are Unity and RJ-IV)...
FRETLESS
There was someone looking for a Foundation FL.
Embarrassingly enough, I finally put strings on my VM Squier J (was a gift from a student)... the feel and vibe was very close to a Foundation.... IF you like to tinker with electronics, this may get you close. The vibe was very close to Foundation-FL...
This may be an alternative if you can't find a factory FL.
There was someone looking for a Foundation FL.
Embarrassingly enough, I finally put strings on my VM Squier J (was a gift from a student)... the feel and vibe was very close to a Foundation.... IF you like to tinker with electronics, this may get you close. The vibe was very close to Foundation-FL...
This may be an alternative if you can't find a factory FL.
Before fooling with the micro-tilt too much, make sure the neck isn't separating along the center lamination point over the neck pocket. If the micro-tilt has ever been set too tight, it acts like a wedge splitting firewood. My early 80s Fury and Foundation suffer from this; I need to make a thick full-pocked shim to avoid using micro-tilt entirely. (This doesn't seem to be an issue on rosewood fingerboard models.)
Whatever you do, do not tighten the neck tilt unless the strings are slacked off and the neck bolts loosened. And, I never tighten a truss (on any bass) unless the strings are loosened up completely. It's worth the extra time tuning-checking relief-loosening strings-adjusting truss- and repeating the process to keep the neck happy and healthy.
As for tilt though, I prefer shimming the whole end of the neck and THEN making the micro tilt make contact with the metal disc in the neck. I feel it's safer since these Peavey necks like to split along the glue seam.
As for tilt though, I prefer shimming the whole end of the neck and THEN making the micro tilt make contact with the metal disc in the neck. I feel it's safer since these Peavey necks like to split along the glue seam.
Wow, your first Peavey bass, ever !! Be prepared to become a Peavey addict. They are SUCH GREAT BASSES ! Personally, I ONLY stick with the USA made ones.
That bass you have is gorgeous. The Super Ferrite pickup sounds nasty. Lots of growl ! I love it.
As per MNAirhead's 3 steps - Step 4 : Enjoy the heck out of it !
I like to put a full shim in whatever end of the neck needs it and make the fine adjustments with the micro tilt. I like to shim the neck enough to ideally make the saddle height screws sit flush or recessed in the saddles and where there is a fairly consistent action up and down the neck. It takes a bit of experimentation to get there, but worth it in the end. You get a great playing bass that doesn't rip up your hand if you start windmilling like Pete Townshend.
