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U.S. Peavey Club

#14,321
I've had a couple of older Peavey basses with the brass truss rod nut that were very hard to adjust. I removed the nut (before trying to set the relief) and put a small amount of grease on the treads and the base of the nut. Then the truss rod adjusted easily. The problem comes in when it is very hard to turn the nut and you just keep trying instead of removing and lubing the nut.

So sorry for your trouble and I hope you get it resolved.
 
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#14,322
KeyBoneSax said:
I'll ask this over in the tech section as well.
Has anyone encountered a problem with the truss rod stripping out in a Foundation? and then being difficult to remove and replace due to jamming? My luthier is having a tough time to the point that he's considering a neck replacement. Already in the process of removing the finger board to get the truss rod free.
Click to expand...
If the truss rod is already stripped out that's really too bad. There are some tricks for loosening a stuck truss rod nut but it seems that is too late at this point. Good luck to you. Maybe the best approach cost wise would be to find a donor neck rather than rebuild the existing.
 
#14,323
KeyBoneSax said:
I'll ask this over in the tech section as well.
Has anyone encountered a problem with the truss rod stripping out in a Foundation? and then being difficult to remove and replace due to jamming? My luthier is having a tough time to the point that he's considering a neck replacement. Already in the process of removing the finger board to get the truss rod free.
Click to expand...
Later 90’s Foundations have a plastic insert in the truss rod cavity at the headstock. Backing out the truss rod nut will jam the nut into the insert. The plastic insert has to be removed first.

Does anyone know how to remove the plastic insert without damaging the neck? I have a similar problem with my Fury and I want to replace the stripped nut.
 
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#14,324
The older Peaveys have an actual hex shaped nut like the Gibson guitars.
The later Peaveys you speak of went to a steel barrel nut that takes a hex key to turn it.
You're saying the barrel nut (below) is hitting the back of the plastic sleeve insert?
trussrod-nut-cylinder-nickel-218-p[ekm]288x288[ekm].jpg
 
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#14,325
58kites said:
The older Peaveys have an actual hex shaped nut like the Gibson guitars.
The later Peaveys you speak of went to a steel barrel nut that takes a hex key to turn it.
You're saying the barrel nut (below) is hitting the back of the plastic sleeve insert?
View attachment 3542304
Click to expand...
KeyBoneSax was asking about a Foundation but didn’t state what year. I asked about a 1996 Fury with the barrel nut and plastic insert, which is similar to the later Foundations.
 
#14,328
The barrel nut should be a smaller diameter than the hole in the sleeve, you are meant to be able to turn the barrel nut and for it to not be too tight in the plastic sleeve.
I'm sure the sleeve is glued in place, and will not likely come out without some butchery.
So, my question again is...is the barrel nut hitting the rear of the plastic sleeve?
Is it just really tight in the sleeve?
Where is it getting hung up?
This is how the adjustment process is supposed to look.
Hex wrench goes into the end of the barrel nut and you turn the barrel nut to loosen or tighten, and the barrel nut should move inside the plastic sleeve without undue friction.
strat-setup-part3-trussrod-adjuster-(1).jpg
 
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#14,329
58kites said:
The barrel nut should be a smaller diameter than the hole in the sleeve, you are meant to be able to turn the barrel nut and for it to not be too tight in the plastic sleeve.
I'm sure the sleeve is glued in place, and will not likely come out without some butchery.
So, my question again is...is the barrel nut hitting the rear of the plastic sleeve?
Is it just really tight in the sleeve?
Where is it getting hung up?
This is how the adjustment process is supposed to look.
Hex wrench goes into the end of the barrel nut and you turn the barrel nut to loosen or tighten, and the barrel nut should move inside the plastic sleeve without undue friction.
View attachment 3542431
Click to expand...
I have not tried to remove the nut because the plastic insert is blocking the path to removal. Previously, I tried to remove the barrel nut on a different bass without removing the plastic insert, and the nut got stuck, so I had to bring it to the shop for repair.

Currently, the barrel nut on the Fury is not hitting the rear of the plastic sleeve, but it will if I try to back it out without removing the plastic insert.
 
#14,330
Why are you wanting to back the nut out in this case? ...is it not moving well clockwise or counter clockwise?
What if you try to make the inside diameter of the tube slippery, like with a Q-Tip and a little Vaseline, and back the barrel nut out a bit and see if you get much friction.
If you begin to encounter real friction, then go clockwise again until it is clear and then a plan B must be figured out.
I don't have a Peavey with the sleeve so I can't experiment here to see what's what.
 
#14,331
58kites said:
Why are you wanting to back the nut out in this case? ...is it not moving well clockwise or counter clockwise?
What if you try to make the inside diameter of the tube slippery, like with a Q-Tip and a little Vaseline, and back the barrel nut out a bit and see if you get much friction.
If you begin to encounter real friction, then go clockwise again until it is clear and then a plan B must be figured out.
I don't have a Peavey with the sleeve so I can't experiment here to see what's what.
Click to expand...
I want to replace the nut because the hex slot is stripped. Allparts has the replacement nut.

I want to remove the plastic insert because if I back out the nut and it gets stuck and it's off the truss rod, the angle makes it difficult to get the nut back on the rod.
 
#14,332
I imagine you could shave the insert out several different ways, all of which would require going slow and being careful.
I have some small chisels here that could probably do a task like that.
It could also be reamed or Dremel'ed carefully.
I would wait a day here and see if some of our more knowledgeable fellows chime in.
 
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#14,333
58kites said:
I imagine you could shave the insert out several different ways, all of which would require going slow and being careful.
I have some small chisels here that could probably do a task like that.
It could also be reamed or Dremel'ed carefully.
I would wait a day here and see if some of our more knowledgeable fellows chime in.
Click to expand...
Ok. Thank you.
I was hoping for a magic remedy, like 'freeze insert with dry ice for 30 seconds, then tap lightly with hammer and watch insert pop out' Or 'spray with finger-ease and let sit overnight. Pick up insert off floor in the morning.'
 
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#14,337
kodiakblair said:
Word of caution for folks with the barrel nut. Peavey was fitting hardware from the Far East by the time those appeared,it'll be metric. SAE tools won't fit 100%,leads to stripping over time.
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That’s exactly the problem with my fury. I didn’t know it was metric and the ten prior owners probably didn’t know either. So I need the replace the bullet nut. I’ll put an SAE nut on there as a courtesy to the next owner, but if someone tries to return the bass because it’s not original as described, then my answer is no.
 
#14,339
kodiakblair said:
Word of caution for folks with the barrel nut. Peavey was fitting hardware from the Far East by the time those appeared,it'll be metric. SAE tools won't fit 100%,leads to stripping over time.
Click to expand...
Yes.
A 4mm hex wrench will work well for both the instruments that take a 5/32" hex and those that take a 4mm hex.
I believe it's 5/32 imperial and 4mm metric for most barrel nuts.
5/32" = 3.9688mm
A 1/8" hex wrench is too small for both imperial and metric barrel nuts, and makes a mess of both.
I have see barrel nut that take 3/16" hex as well, but not used by a lot of brands, they are beefy and good.
Still think everyone should adopt the EBMM and Yamaha wheel at the heel.
 
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