I really meant a six string G bass.
The nomenclature always gets me on these. I guess I wouldn't mind having a G bass just because it's something different. I know they aren't as esteemed as the GV's but I've seen a few in some interesting colors.
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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I really meant a six string G bass.
The nomenclature always gets me on these. I guess I wouldn't mind having a G bass just because it's something different. I know they aren't as esteemed as the GV's but I've seen a few in some interesting colors.
I believe that one has Bartolini PUs and electronics.
I WILL keep my eyes open for you and alert you when I see any.
That's the EXACT one that was on Reverb.com for $400 bucks. It has all Bartolini guts. Pups and preamp. No Milli anything. As I said earlier in this thread, I was going to buy it but the seller ended the listing. I'd put money on the idea that he really needed the money and took it to GC and I bet they gave him $300-$400 cash for it. It's way too expensive knowing that it was $400 the day before it appeared.
I modded a GBass into a Cirrus. I had the local shop (Groat Guitars, formerly Michael Dolan's shop in Santa Rosa) route for a new VFL and drill a hole for direct replacement of a Cirrus preamp. It became a bolt on Cirrus with a carbon fiber neck. It was AWESOME. But, I sold it because it was 35" scale and 21 frets, not 24, even though the spacing is the same. It was a psychological roadblock for me. I should've kept it. Shouldacouldawoulda... (Oooh a band name !!! )
Did you put a VFL in the neck too? The G bass pickup is kinda the same as the Forum's active pickup.
One of my GV necks is on a Millenium body. That is a beast!
One of my GV necks is on a Millenium body. That is a beast!
Yes, I believe I left the stock pickup and added another VFL to the bridge position.
What differences did you notice after the GV neck... I'm considering doing it.
Sustain? Punch? Upper Mids?
I'm gonna have to get a GV one of these days. I can't imagine how it can sound any better than my G Bass does to me now. I can't believe the clarity of this.
I would have bought one of the GV's on GC's used site but both had non stock electronics so what would be the point?
Just did it... G-lenium in Acton
Ok snagged the 1990s black/RW Foundation he took $80. Needs to lose some neck relief, checking the truss rod in a second here now i have my allen wrenches. Lots of chips/dings. Jack plate is cracked need a new one. But holy hell it thumps!
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Yeah its more beat up then the pics show! The truss appear functional so thats good. The fretboard looks like it had begun to separate a bit and was wood glued to stop it. Some dried glue still on the side Ideas on removing it?
I own a pair of Millennium Plus 5's and both have maple fingerboards....pretty much plain maple with black dots. One of them I bought from GC and it is in excellent condition but the fingerboard was soiled. Some players have acidic hands or just eat fried chicken and don't wash their hands before they play and the fingerboard gets soiled. Here is before:
It looked about like that up until about the 12th fret.
I had read that folks use calcium carbonate to help pull oil out of gunstocks so I acquired some and gave that a try but it did nothing except waste a little time and money. I won't go into details since it didn't work.
I dug around on the internet and found a post on the Ernie Ball Musicman forum about a guy who tried this and that and then finally tried a paste made out of Barkeeper's Friend (a cleanser that is at many grocery stores). Barkeeper's Friend has oxalic acid in it so handle with care. Anyway the guy said he left it on the fingerboard for 2 minutes and the before/after photos showed the fingerboard looking good when he was done.
I removed the neck from the Millennium. I removed the tuners from the headstock and taped over the face of the headstock which has a clear gloss finish. I mixed up some Barkeeper's Friend into a paste and applied it to a couple of fret areas and left it for 2 minutes and then wiped and then rinsed it off. I dried the neck but first used a solution of baking soda to neutralize any residual acid.
It seemed to help a little but not much. So I applied the paste to all the soiled areas on the fingerboard and left it on for 5 minutes. After that I wiped, rinsed, applied baking soda and rinsed again. I dried the neck with a towel and then use a hair dryer to completely dry it. I was pleased to see it looked a lot better. Probably 8 minutes would have removed all the stain, however, I was satisfied with the result I got with 5 minutes.
I took the neck outside and rubbed the neck, fingerboard and frets with 0000 steel wool. The wood and the frets polished up nicely. I used compressed air to blow off any steel wool fibers that remained. I got excited and reassembled the bass prior to taking an "after" photo but here is one with the strings installed:
As you can see, it looks fine now.
I will now work on the second Millennium 5. It was set aside while I worked on this one. This one has TI flats on it and plays/sounds amazing. I will put rounds on the second one so I can have one with rounds and one with flats.
I am a happy boy!
It looked about like that up until about the 12th fret.
I had read that folks use calcium carbonate to help pull oil out of gunstocks so I acquired some and gave that a try but it did nothing except waste a little time and money. I won't go into details since it didn't work.
I dug around on the internet and found a post on the Ernie Ball Musicman forum about a guy who tried this and that and then finally tried a paste made out of Barkeeper's Friend (a cleanser that is at many grocery stores). Barkeeper's Friend has oxalic acid in it so handle with care. Anyway the guy said he left it on the fingerboard for 2 minutes and the before/after photos showed the fingerboard looking good when he was done.
I removed the neck from the Millennium. I removed the tuners from the headstock and taped over the face of the headstock which has a clear gloss finish. I mixed up some Barkeeper's Friend into a paste and applied it to a couple of fret areas and left it for 2 minutes and then wiped and then rinsed it off. I dried the neck but first used a solution of baking soda to neutralize any residual acid.
It seemed to help a little but not much. So I applied the paste to all the soiled areas on the fingerboard and left it on for 5 minutes. After that I wiped, rinsed, applied baking soda and rinsed again. I dried the neck with a towel and then use a hair dryer to completely dry it. I was pleased to see it looked a lot better. Probably 8 minutes would have removed all the stain, however, I was satisfied with the result I got with 5 minutes.
I took the neck outside and rubbed the neck, fingerboard and frets with 0000 steel wool. The wood and the frets polished up nicely. I used compressed air to blow off any steel wool fibers that remained. I got excited and reassembled the bass prior to taking an "after" photo but here is one with the strings installed:
As you can see, it looks fine now.
I will now work on the second Millennium 5. It was set aside while I worked on this one. This one has TI flats on it and plays/sounds amazing. I will put rounds on the second one so I can have one with rounds and one with flats.
I am a happy boy!
I’d really like to find a pink Millenium 5 or purple
If anyone can help me find one it would be greatly appreciated !
If anyone can help me find one it would be greatly appreciated !
