Before and after for the fingerboard of Millennium Plus 5 #2:
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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Chuck that looks GREAT! Think I’ll be doing this to both of my Milly 5’s. Neither board is as soiled as yours was - but the after pic is awesome. Thanks for the tips!
Damn, Chuck ! You are the MAN !!! Thank you for the education that can really only be found here on Talkbass. It's priceless stuff. It looks REALLY good, man !!
So on the Facebook Peavey CVLT page, Derrick Cook (our fearless leader who works at the sacred halls of Peavey, or as Alembic headquarters is called the Mothership) had a guy who is buying a Peavey Firebass 700 head for $100 tomorrow. THAT is a steal !! Anyone here have experience with the Firebass 700 or the little brother Nitrobass ? I miss mine. It had SUCH KILLER tone for a solid state. Really warm and WAY underrated. I played a show once opening for a national headliner and the band said my tone was killer - Peavey Cirrus through a Peavey Firebass 700 D.I. through the house system.
Here is a bit more about using Barkeepers’ Friend to clean an unfinished maple fingerboard.....Millennium is the only Peavey bass I know that seems to have an unfinished fingerboard.
On the second bass I used blue painters tape to protect the back of the neck from any runs over the edge of the fingerboard. There were a few runs on the first neck I did and they are faintly visible. Use the tape and you will avoid that.
Use a new pad of steel wool and start on the back of the neck. Polish the back smooth as a baby’s bottom and then polish the fingerboard and frets. The frets tear the steel wool and that is why you should do the back first.
I am very pleased with the results I got. Both basses are terrific and it is great to have one with flats and rounds on the other. These are fabulous basses.
On the second bass I used blue painters tape to protect the back of the neck from any runs over the edge of the fingerboard. There were a few runs on the first neck I did and they are faintly visible. Use the tape and you will avoid that.
Use a new pad of steel wool and start on the back of the neck. Polish the back smooth as a baby’s bottom and then polish the fingerboard and frets. The frets tear the steel wool and that is why you should do the back first.
I am very pleased with the results I got. Both basses are terrific and it is great to have one with flats and rounds on the other. These are fabulous basses.
I have a Squier Vintage Modified Precision Bass TB (Tele Bass) and the maple fretboard is a matte finish and the back has a gloss finish.
That only means that the front has had work done to make it satin finished, it still has been sealed, it just got rubbed to matte on purpose by Squier (or maybe after by an owner).
I don't believe anybody is supplying unfinished maple.
The same way the Peavey mahogany body Patriots and mahogany body Foundations are dull, they have been sealed, they are not unfinished, just left with a flat look.
I believe the BarKeepers friend is etching the necks, I think that is why you could see the runs on the back of the neck.
I think you are chemically doing what lots of people used to do to their glossy Fender neck backs with sandpaper or ScotchBrite to make them faster for the more sweaty folks who don't appreciate the glossy maple neck backs.
That only means that the front has had work done to make it satin finished, it still has been sealed, it just got rubbed to matte on purpose by Squier (or maybe after by an owner).
I don't believe anybody is supplying unfinished maple.
The same way the Peavey mahogany body Patriots and mahogany body Foundations are dull, they have been sealed, they are not unfinished, just left with a flat look.
I believe the BarKeepers friend is etching the necks, I think that is why you could see the runs on the back of the neck.
I think you are chemically doing what lots of people used to do to their glossy Fender neck backs with sandpaper or ScotchBrite to make them faster for the more sweaty folks who don't appreciate the glossy maple neck backs.
I have the Firebass 700 and stop using it for a while and even tried selling it locally last year. Glad it didn't sell, because I do like it. I prefer the convenience of the smaller, portable, class D amps now, but I won't give this one up now. It does sound great and this one is in excellent condition! Size and weight is only downside.
That sounds correct. I believe I read somewhere that the Millennium necks had some sort of finishing product applied to them.
This was pretty much a last resort for me. I tried cleaning the fingerboard with a damp cloth, scrubbing with 409 cleaner, naptha and finally alcohol. None of those cleaning methods worked so I decided to try the Barkeepers.
I will keep an eye on the fingerboards and see how they hold up.
By the way, there is a Squier Vintage Modified Precision V in my collection of basses and that one has a gloss finished neck with a glossy maple fingerboard. It has not been played much but the fingerboard is protected from stains by the hard finish.
$100 is a steal, theres probably more than $100 worth of scrap copper in that massive transformer! (Ok, maybe not but is sounds funny)
Never owned one, but they seemed like good, basic solid state amps. Size and weight were the biggest cons. I didnt like the way the pots felt either, but it doesnt really affect function.
Man t40 pups are that much? About 12 years ago i bought a great condition bass natural for just over $100. Sold for 2 or 300 years later....... had it not been 12+lb......
Back in the day I only used Peavey gear. At this point I think If I found a deal on a VB3 I'd think about it or maybe a nice Megabass head. I had a huge infatuation with those and the GK 400RB in the 80's. I have a 400RBII now so maybe I should look for that Megabass head.
Side note I used my old Musicman HD150 with my Millennium Plus a couple weeks ago and that killed. Next up will be the 400RBII.
Side note I used my old Musicman HD150 with my Millennium Plus a couple weeks ago and that killed. Next up will be the 400RBII.
A GORGEOUS Millennium 5 just came up on local CL - Maybe he'll ship.
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I use BarKeeprs all the time to clean pots and pans, it would never have occurred to me to use it to clean up a fretboard that way...clever.
I would have used a damp cloth and then Naptha and gave up.
I was surprised to find the finish on the back different from the fretboard on the Squier Tele Bass, seems like a lot of extra work on an inexpensive bass.
BigTone had one of the Squier Tele Basses too, but I forget if he told me about the finish on his neck.
I love that color and finish. Folks may think I'm crazy but, I actually prefer a finish like this over some of the fancier styles.
I had that exact model, it really is classy looking. Pretty, but low-key.
And of course, sounds & plays as good as anything on the market.
And of course, sounds & plays as good as anything on the market.
You were ahead of me. I had never heard of Barkeepers until I found this thread:
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My Squier TB was a completely matte finished neck. When I got it, the fingerboard was quite dirty and the back of the neck was slightly glossed from playing. The gunk cleaned off easily with naphtha and the back of the neck was re-satined with a quick hit of steel wool. You can see the filth on this pic I took the day I got it.
Never thought about Bar Keeper's Friend to clean a seriously dirty fingerboard. Been using the stuff for decades to clean around the house (and to polish the nastiest of dirty cymbals).
Lot's of great tips here (especially @Chuck M) regarding the cleaning methods for the fretboards. The green Mill I picked up last month can certainly use a good cleaning and has also soiled. I have some masking tape and Bar Keepers friend on hand from my gunsmithing days. Really excited to try it out!
