I have the 5 string version of that. I would say it is an excellent value for what I paid. I think its very comfortable and easy to play.
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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I have the 5 string version of that. I would say it is an excellent value for what I paid. I think its very comfortable and easy to play.
I'd no idea I was playing a 35" scale bass until somebody told me 
The fellas are right IMO,it's not such a big deal on 4 strings. 5s and 6s would be a different matter.
The fellas are right IMO,it's not such a big deal on 4 strings. 5s and 6s would be a different matter.
1" is only half the distance from the nut to the first fret, and that 1" is distributed/spread across the entire length of the strings. Then realize that most 35" scale basses have the bridge shifted further toward the end of the body, to allow for the extended scale. This makes the "money" frets fall where they would normally be on a 34" bass. Only people that struggle with the lower note spread, or people that like to do string crossing patterns down low, would feel the few millimeter difference.I'd no idea I was playing a 35" scale bass until somebody told me
I'm tall with large hands and long fingers. But, I choose to spend most of my time between frets 4 and 12. For instance, I find the tone of a 7th fret E (A string) to be more appealing (fatter) than the 2nd fret D string. So, I tend to go up the neck rather than play the A, D, and G strings between frets 1 and 4.
@JEDI BASS
I favour the "Ignorance is Bliss" idea. 35" was no problem even after I'd been told. The 6ft 2" fella spilling the beans though,he got himself in a right state overthinking the extra inch
Most of us know it takes a wee bit time settling into playing a different bass,Mr 6ft 2" just blamed the 1" then swore off 35" scale for life
I favour the "Ignorance is Bliss" idea. 35" was no problem even after I'd been told. The 6ft 2" fella spilling the beans though,he got himself in a right state overthinking the extra inch
Most of us know it takes a wee bit time settling into playing a different bass,Mr 6ft 2" just blamed the 1" then swore off 35" scale for life 
"Scale/Spacing" = Entire Geometry + Technique
This is as age-old silly as "Jaco only needed, Leo perfected it, SVT"
This entire thing is silly to hen-peck individual items. I'll start the opinion going...
Overall Geometry includes the following: left hand technique, right hand technique, strap length, body contour, nut height, nut spacing, neck width, string tension, string type, string height, bridge position (compared to the end pin of the neck), bridge spacing, neck thickness, neck tilt, neck relief --- you get the point
The "golden era" Peavey stuff is known for having a great overall design of all the aspects (I'd say neck tilt and bridge saddles sometimes can be optimized)
When it comes to USA Peavey stuff, we can help you with best practices and quirks (RJ needs the bridge saddles lowered, Millenium needs a shim etc). Other brands need to be "coaxed to perfection."
Full Disclosure -- I gig acoustic upright and 7 string (and no, I don't tie a tube sock around the neck) much of the time.
Opinion - My Peavey USA is on par with my $$$$ botiques (when proven best practices are used).
songwriter21
I have an obsession for wood. The musical kind.
Regardless...got this beauty arriving on Monday. She'll be quite happy with my Cirrus bolt and Yamaha BBP35! Even though there's scale difference between the Milly and BB, both have 21 frets, 18mm spacing, and heel access for the truss. The access alone is huge for gigging convenience. The headstock access with the cover on Cirruses is my only gripe with those models...pain in the butt, compared to a few seconds at the heel. Being able to adjust your neck on the fly is awesomesauce.
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I have a 35" Lakland 55-01 5er. It's fretless and 18.5-19mm spacing. I have more issue with playing a fretless than the scale and spacing derivative from my fretted (which are mostly 18.5-19mm 34"). That extra inch of scale manifests as more room for poor intonation on my part. 
I'm currently having my 98 Carvin BB75 defretted and will get rid of the Lakland. Not for any reason other than I now have a plethora of 5ers and like the Carvin more than the Lakland and want to keep it.
I'm currently having my 98 Carvin BB75 defretted and will get rid of the Lakland. Not for any reason other than I now have a plethora of 5ers and like the Carvin more than the Lakland and want to keep it.
WOW, GC Used had a Randy Jackson for $249 ; I went to buy it and it has already been sold. Smart buyer...
I really want to play it! That chrome logo is cool!
I love my Century 200.
Wow, that's really clean. I have reoccurring nightmares about amps like this where I cant find replacement parts and the customer is mad.
I didn't even know Peavey was around in the 60's ! That amp is 1968. Man, the music that came out in '67-'68 was AMAZING !
Wikipedia says "Hartley Peavey founded Peavey Electronics in 1965, having built his first amplifier in 1957."
NicJimBass
Flossin'? I thought your name was Munson!
To me!
Looks like it was modified, but won't know how much until I get it. Bridge was swapped, which likely means no piezo, probably an aftermarket pre, as there are no stacked knobs, and two of the tuners are crooked. Going to assess it, and see if it's worth restoring somewhat, or if it's better off as-is. Either way, it was too good a deal to pass up.
I'm not sure what the deal with the tuners is, except maybe the screw holes got messed up somehow. Modulus necks are hollow, IIRC, yes? Any way to repair the holes, if they are messed up? Epoxy or something similar?
It's a B-Quad 5, for anyone who cares!
I'm assuming that finding an OEM bridge and pre will likely be nearly impossible. Any suggestions as to how to get it functioning as close to original as possible? Thinking maybe a Hipshot A-style bridge with piezos, and a preamp that functions similarly, if there even is such a thing.
If it's not worth my time, I'll return it and eat shipping... and I'll give ya'll a heads up in case one of you want to snag it afterwards.
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