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Wal Bass Club.

Many thanks for that link. I'm leaning toward using FedEx. I need to read up on their site and maybe go talk to them. Probably easier to fly there and pack it in a suitcase.

dunc

if you plan on making a return trip to pick it up, go for it.....but i think the problem lies more when you import back to the US. you need proof or documentation that the bass has been previously in the country........

*side note*
i have not yet experienced exporting/importing a bass for repairs so i have no real experience with....i'm going by what i'm reading in that link i posted.....only experience i have is importing a repaired/altered bass, is a Status that I had Martin Sims work on. I actually bought the bass originally from a guy in Spain and had him send it directly to Martin, so i did not export it to him originally. When Martin was done working on the bass, I had it imported back to me and paid duty based on the cost of teh modification. (**he only declared cost of work ***he asked if i wanted to insure the cost of the bass for shipping and I declined since i was afraid that it might increase possible duties - so that may have played a factor as well)
 
if you plan on making a return trip to pick it up, go for it.....but i think the problem lies more when you import back to the US. you need proof or documentation that the bass has been previously in the country........

*side note*
i have not yet experienced exporting/importing a bass for repairs so i have no real experience with....i'm going by what i'm reading in that link i posted.....only experience i have is importing a repaired/altered bass, is a Status that I had Martin Sims work on. I actually bought the bass originally from a guy in Spain and had him send it directly to Martin, so i did not export it to him originally. When Martin was done working on the bass, I had it imported back to me and paid duty based on the cost of teh modification. (**he only declared cost of work ***he asked if i wanted to insure the cost of the bass for shipping and I declined since i was afraid that it might increase possible duties - so that may have played a factor as well)

I just need to do the required reading to fill the forms out correctly. Not very exciting!

I have paid duty on an ACG a few years ago and sold another Wal and shipped to Europe. Had a bit of a scare until the buyer found his receipt for the duty fees he paid. FedEx was trying to change back to me.
 
I want a refret done plus full checkup. Going to ship neck and body separately.
The guy who sold me my Wal had Paul send him the original fret-wire, and he had the re-fret done here in the States by a luthier, such as Mike Lull. There's plenty of fretwork masters here. Your playing shouldn't notice the difference, and it'll retain full value, if not more for the new fret job.
 
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So first off, I’ll admit you guys were right. I’ve come around full circle and now after talking with Paul about target weights I will likely be switching to a Mk3. Biggest question is, does the neck feel the same as a Mk1? Obviously there are differences in length and number of frets but how does the width, soft v, string spacing, and fretboard feel? I just want to be certain the neck will feel equivalent to my Mk1 which after playing has spoiled the heck out of me. I recall someone on here saying something like the Mk3 is the perfect distillation of the Wal design and as much as I love the Mk1 and Mk2 headstock, if the neck is the same I’ll go for it.
 
Biggest question is, does the neck feel the same as a Mk1?

With Paul's builds it will be the same profile unless you specify something different...he's mega-consistant about that.
The Mk3 4 string is fantastic in regards to feel and balance. It's just a shame I don't get to play my 4 string much onstage since my current band is predominately 5 string music, but when the planets align and the bandleader makes one set I can do on 4 string, that Mk3 is pure bliss!

IMG_20160207_205743_zpsmvtuk2hj.jpg
 
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So first off, I’ll admit you guys were right. I’ve come around full circle and now after talking with Paul about target weights I will likely be switching to a Mk3. Biggest question is, does the neck feel the same as a Mk1? Obviously there are differences in length and number of frets but how does the width, soft v, string spacing, and fretboard feel? I just want to be certain the neck will feel equivalent to my Mk1 which after playing has spoiled the heck out of me. I recall someone on here saying something like the Mk3 is the perfect distillation of the Wal design and as much as I love the Mk1 and Mk2 headstock, if the neck is the same I’ll go for it.

The profiles on all the Wal 4's I've owned (Mk1, 2, and 3) have been pretty similar, but I haven't owned a newer Paul-era bass.

I hear you on the "classic" Mk1/2 headstock, but you do get used to the Mk3 4-string headstock. Still, I wonder if Paul would be open to doing the older style headstock on a Mk3?
 
Well it is an official day of change for me here. My order is now for a Mk3 and I'll be moving to a new home this afternoon. I'm so glad I ordered when I did because that saved me £400 compared to the current charge. Also for anyone curious, I've had my order in place since June and construction on the neck had not begun yet. Looks like the 24 month quote is pretty darn firm for those looking to place new orders. At least I've only got only 16 months to wait at this point.
 
Well I know that when I ordered my Mk1 I had to ask Paul to send me a picture of it under construction. I don't know if you're paying the way I do but my Mk3 is almost already paid off. I was also well over halfway to paying my Mk1 off at the time I got the picture of my neck. I just sort of figured that if you've already met the neck deposit Paul might not feel the need to tell you construction has begun. I sort of had to pester them to get more details as my Mk1 neared completion. I've seen a lot of guys post up multiple pictures of their builds in progress but I only got two of mine. Not that I'm complaining, because I'm in love with my Mk1, it's just that I'm curious as to how other people's experiences have been.
 
I don't know if you're paying the way I do but my Mk3 is almost already paid off. I was also well over halfway to paying my Mk1 off at the time I got the picture of my neck.

Ya I was considering to pay it off since the $ to £ seemed pretty strong......but I held back quietly waiting for a 5er and ended up getting the rippled maple 5er I posted earlier. I'm a little more than halfway paid though, but that doesn't say much since I added every possible option in the book and them some....... I'll prob send an email to Paul and ask about them on going construction pics.
 
Quick question for you Mk3 4 string owners, what's the normal weight range for one?

its kinda hard to say what the normal weight would be. from what i heard they are typically a pound less than their Mk1 or Mk2 counterpart.

For my example it makes sense: the weight difference between these two is a about a 1 lb

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Sorry if the spelling is from hell!

problem here!
my MK1 bas has that sharp fret crown tang problem! its a bloody mess!
well its not that big problem there but i got the black geddy one and the lacquer is fragile!
So its so easy to make marks on that!
any suggestion how to make the finish good after a fixed the fret crown?
i try the wet sandpaper 2000 fine, but its no good!

car wax? other polish?
 
its kinda hard to say what the normal weight would be. from what i heard they are typically a pound less than their Mk1 or Mk2 counterpart.

For my example it makes sense: the weight difference between these two is a about a 1 lb

Okay, so if my Mk1 is about 10.25lbs then asking for my Mk3 to be around 9lbs isn't too far out of the ballpark. With the longer upper horn and asymmetrical lower bout of the body, I doubt neck dive will rear it's ugly head. My Mk1 doesn't neck dive but I know that has a lot to do with the weight of the body itself.
 
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