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Wal Bass Club.

Pondering to send my MK1 to Paul for servicing, and restoring the electronics to default etc... just don't know if it's worth it. It will most likely cost a lot and most likely change only miniscule things. The bass needs a refret and a new nut and of course a setup. I don't want to hassle him with creating an offer for this - any guesses about the cost involed in Wal maintenance?

Edit: Restoring electronics to default means the bass has a kill switch at the moment. I don't mind it, but it of course raises eyebrows and lowers value. But since the bass is kinda old I guess it would be a good idea to have the electronics checked/changed. I heard of issues with old capacitors?

What drives me nuts is the narrow slot for the E string, it can barely take a regular .105, I always need to squeeze the string end to make it even slide inside the slot. How do you handle this?
You could always remove the two circuit boards and send them to Paul for a refurb (incl asking him to swap the switched vol pot out for a standard one). Several here have done that and I’m sure they’ll chip in with tips. @kulit17 @mikeswals

Any other of the set up stuff can be done locally by a good guitar tech you trust.
 
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Pondering to send my MK1 to Paul for servicing, and restoring the electronics to default etc... just don't know if it's worth it. It will most likely cost a lot and most likely change only miniscule things. The bass needs a refret and a new nut and of course a setup. I don't want to hassle him with creating an offer for this - any guesses about the cost involed in Wal maintenance?

Edit: Restoring electronics to default means the bass has a kill switch at the moment. I don't mind it, but it of course raises eyebrows and lowers value. But since the bass is kinda old I guess it would be a good idea to have the electronics checked/changed. I heard of issues with old capacitors?

What drives me nuts is the narrow slot for the E string, it can barely take a regular .105, I always need to squeeze the string end to make it even slide inside the slot. How do you handle this?

Any competent luthier or technician could help with the nut. I have even done such work myself with rat tail files.

As for the electronics, if they are in working order, I personalty would not ship them. I had myriad problems with my Pro Ie and at one point sent it to Pete (RIP) through our great fellow Walnut Chris Franklin. For those not familiar, those electronics (preamp itself and not jsut the pots) are mounted to the back of the scratch plate. Pete had it a good while and sent it back with some fixes hoping it would work (it didn't). I was lucky to get it back because Pete's illness took a turn for the worse. I ended up having Harry Kolbe rebuild it from the original plans which have been circulating around the Wal boards for ages, and now it is in perfect working order.

Back to your bass, practically speaking, whether you remove the kill switch or not, the installation cannot be undone (i.e. you will always have an extra switch drilled in your bass) so if it is not adversely affecting the preamp in any way, there is no harm in leaving it in. In fact it adds a feature to the bass.

Just my $.02.
 
Edit: Restoring electronics to default means the bass has a kill switch at the moment. I don't mind it, but it of course raises eyebrows and lowers value.

Since it has a toggle switch mounted in about the similar spot Sims would install one for their LED lights, I would think really hard about just letting Sims put lights on the neck! :) He can refret it too.
 
thanks guys for your opinions. I will just leave it as it is then. The kill switch is cool because it lets me use the XLR out without having to plug in a regular guitar cable to activate it.

About that old capacitor thing, is there any way to check for this? The bass is from 1986 I think.


My battery died sunday morning literally less than an hour after a gig on saturday. Preamp farting out etc... new batterie, all is well. I placed a cheap battery in because that was all I had at that moment. Lessons learned, only use quality batteries.
 
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thanks for remining me - I'll put up pics tomorrow, but I definitely have that problem. There is some green stuff even under the board, and lots of it at the little feet of the caps. I guess I should solve this asap.
Yes...quickly. The acid in those can eat your solder lines within the board.
Probably be good to not have a battery attached or even play it.
 
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Pics incoming. But I guess it is a rather obvious result...
 

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