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A shim is to tilt the neck angle.
When you remove the neck, make a shim sort-of rectangular: I like to go from the end of the pocket to the first set of neck screws. Some people cut up business cards, but to me thats too thick. I like to use construction paper as its a little thinner than a business card, I only want to lift the neck as little as needed.
But on the saddles: yes make sure they are sitting flat on the bottom plate.
Clean as best you can with the bridge in place.
If you absolutely have to remove them, they must be dropped out from underneath the bridge, those bridge slots are actually tapered, so removal of the bridge and prying off the bridge plate would be required.
Just make a simple shim like this
When you remove the neck, make a shim sort-of rectangular: I like to go from the end of the pocket to the first set of neck screws. Some people cut up business cards, but to me thats too thick. I like to use construction paper as its a little thinner than a business card, I only want to lift the neck as little as needed.
But on the saddles: yes make sure they are sitting flat on the bottom plate.
Clean as best you can with the bridge in place.
If you absolutely have to remove them, they must be dropped out from underneath the bridge, those bridge slots are actually tapered, so removal of the bridge and prying off the bridge plate would be required.
Just make a simple shim like this
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I had to dig for some pics of my older basses. Yes it was common to see the A string block match the height of the bridge frame. My old 1990.
It looks like Paul makes the A blocks a tad shorter. My 2010.
It looks like Paul makes the A blocks a tad shorter. My 2010.
If it were me, for such an expensive bass, i'd buy a set of retail made shims
Totally different sound. Musicman fretless is a bit more mellow sounding with more lows. Both sound nice and have a signature sound. Plenty of Musicman fretless videos on YouTube so you can check and see how it compares to a Wal.
I had a fretless SR4, it was mellow compared to Wal. I wish I had kept it, only because it was a Dargie, but wouldn't serve as a backup. Love my MM's, but I don't take em to the same gig as a Wal.
However, I had a G&L L1505 fretless and that high output in series mode easily worked as a backup, I didnt have to change any amp settings.
However, I had a G&L L1505 fretless and that high output in series mode easily worked as a backup, I didnt have to change any amp settings.
Thanks guys! Yeah there are lots of videos of course but you know how that is. They’re all taken with different phones and rooms and styles so it’s hard to compare if it’s not the same video, gear, etc…. They do sound nice though not the same. I would imagine one could get close with a little EQ when playing live with a loud band.
That G&L fretless sounds interesting, I'll have to keep an eye out
Gorgeous. Congratulations.
I know what you mean... all that time and effort trying to will this sound out of other instruments... and it just leaps out of the real deal. I'm about 2 months in with my first, a Mk1. I find it a lot more flexible than I expected... and now I really want a 5 string Mk3
I fully support your decision
. Your Mk2 should be ready any day now? Looking forward to seeing the MK3 fretless any ideas for facings?
I fully support your decision
I actually picked a facing already after picking a facing for my mk2 build.
It's one of these guys
Had most of those as a selection... my first initial facing I had wanted was a high figured camphor burl, initially Paul said yes when I placed my deposit, but when it came time for obtaining the facing, where he gets his timbre no longer had any available - so he sent several options to see it any tickled my fancy.... guess I didn't post this here and only at the Wal FB group...my apologies!
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If they're still making basses by the time I'm notified to put down my deposit, I may do that. I can only afford one Wal, so two necks might make sense (though the primary will be fretless).
Updating the club# list:
210. Treeman
211. Wibble666
212. JennyDeathWal
213. ytrb6
210. Treeman
211. Wibble666
212. JennyDeathWal
213. ytrb6
I know you were referring to the 'blocks' rather than the actual saddles, but I just wanted to clarify for anyone that didn't get that. When all's said and done, each of the saddles should end up raised above their individual blocks to allow for adjusting the action either way (higher or lower). I know you knew that too, I just wanted to be thorough.
After raising the A saddle a bit (because you don't want it bottomed out on its block), and then raising the other three saddles to match it (observing neck radius), a shim will definitely be necessary as already stated by you and others, afterwhich the action can be fine tuned up or down using the saddle screws.
I didn't mention a shim in my initial reply, because at that time I only meant to point out that one or more of the blocks looked raised up off of the bottom plate. Sorry for not being more thorough in that initial reply.
For the lefties ...(Toronto area for sale):
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
(no affiliation - and maybe it's been posted before)
...and surprised maple flamed board(?)..is it legit?
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
(no affiliation - and maybe it's been posted before)
...and surprised maple flamed board(?)..is it legit?
