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Well I did it! I got one!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter StarscreamG1
- Start date
As far as I know its pretty much still a buyers market right now with most things. This might be a great time to grab one. As I said before, just do your research first. I had no idea just how varied the neck specs and I think even body thickness is on these basses from year to year, even during the same year, until I started asking and reading. Im sure you know what you prefer in a bass dimension wise, so find the years that are in your specs of preference and then go for it while the prices are still fair on them for right now. Least they were last time I looked a few months back.
Alvaro Martín Gómez A.;8114725 said:Congratulations! I think we should start the "Ric + T-40" club.
Hehe you know what, I think you are right! Seems if you get one, you end up with the other one before its over!!
They make a great pair together IMO. And theres nothing that can sound like a Ric (other then a Ric of course) then a T40. That Ric sound has always been my fav sound on a T40 and now Ive the Ric to go with it too. ^_^
Nice early 4003!
I'm hoping to score a very similar one locally in the spring if it's still available. Perfect for a 5 string conversion.
JetGlo is classic, but unforgiving when it comes to fingerprints.
If you want to clean it up Mequiar's Scratch-X and a good non-silicon wax (Zymol, Turtle wax are 2 examples) are good candidates, that's what I use on mine based on recommendations of some knowledgeable experts.
If you haven't already bypassed the bass-cut cap (on the bridge pup, if it's still in there), I have a quick remedy that requires no soldering and is 100% non-intrusive, if you're interested.
I'm hoping to score a very similar one locally in the spring if it's still available. Perfect for a 5 string conversion.
JetGlo is classic, but unforgiving when it comes to fingerprints.
If you want to clean it up Mequiar's Scratch-X and a good non-silicon wax (Zymol, Turtle wax are 2 examples) are good candidates, that's what I use on mine based on recommendations of some knowledgeable experts.
If you haven't already bypassed the bass-cut cap (on the bridge pup, if it's still in there), I have a quick remedy that requires no soldering and is 100% non-intrusive, if you're interested.
Nice early 4003!
I'm hoping to score a very similar one locally in the spring if it's still available. Perfect for a 5 string conversion.
JetGlo is classic, but unforgiving when it comes to fingerprints.
If you want to clean it up Mequiar's Scratch-X and a good non-silicon wax (Zymol, Turtle wax are 2 examples) are good candidates, that's what I use on mine based on recommendations of some knowledgeable experts.
If you haven't already bypassed the bass-cut cap (on the bridge pup, if it's still in there), I have a quick remedy that requires no soldering and is 100% non-intrusive, if you're interested.
This 4003 was actually bought by my friend to gut and customize electronically/pup wise (some rare ric style pups he had just waiting to go in it) but I took one look at it and was like Nooooooooooooo!!! *makes hand grabbies* MineMINEMINEMINE!! PLEASE SELL IT TO ME!!! ... LOL! It was just luv at first sight for me and /that/ Ric.
I will use what you recommended to clean it up and buff it out. I am still trying to learn all its stuff so to speak so Im not real sure just what you are talking about with the bridge pup
I do know the bridge pup is not exactly 100% on it. Its not blown but it doesnt get /as/ loud as it should. I knew this before I got it (it was priced accordingly too) and I already have a new bridge pup/surround slated to pick up for it in the next month or so. I tell you, for a bridge pup that I was told is not as loud as its suppose to be.. WOW this beast sounds amazing!! the toggle and knobs all work fine though. ^_^And yea, jetglo/black is very unforgiving with fingerprints. Black (rosewood) is my fav color for a bass and Ive got a few black ones. They are merciless with the fingerprints. The worse one I have had by FAR was my Yamaha RBX4 A2 though
It was. INSANE. Its gone now.. went to someone here to pay off that 4003 and I thought I was going to miss that Yammy? OH shoot no... 
Bass-cap. Ok I got it now... mmmm... the new Rics have a switch/toggle/whatever to cut it on and off. Not sure how to go with mine. I may decide to do a full resto on it and get a whole new harness for it. Would it hurt it in a sense of I just totally bypassed the cap? Or should I keep it to its 81 specs? Opinions are greatly appreciated.
No, it won't hurt it at all. You can always put a cap back in if you want to put back to the original. But I don't think you'd want to. They sound so much better without the cap.
Congrats Star!
The cap mod is EASY...here is a link for you.
Invalid Link Removed
GO TO the RIC Maint section, look for the .0047 MFD Capacitor Bypass Modification. I was hoping this link
would have taken you right there, but it only defaults to the home page.
It is easily reversible and it is only a jump wire away.
The DRAWBACK with a new wire harness, is the VTC (Vintage Tone Control) has a large bodied switch. You would MOST LIKELY have to ROUTE out the bottom of the control cavity just a bit, think of a soda cap in diameter and about 1/2 the depth, to get it to fit in the cavity where the Pickguard would sit flush.
The BENEFIT is having the best of BOTH worlds. A 4001 & a 4003 sound all in one RIC.
The cap mod is EASY...here is a link for you.
Invalid Link Removed
GO TO the RIC Maint section, look for the .0047 MFD Capacitor Bypass Modification. I was hoping this link
would have taken you right there, but it only defaults to the home page.
It is easily reversible and it is only a jump wire away.
The DRAWBACK with a new wire harness, is the VTC (Vintage Tone Control) has a large bodied switch. You would MOST LIKELY have to ROUTE out the bottom of the control cavity just a bit, think of a soda cap in diameter and about 1/2 the depth, to get it to fit in the cavity where the Pickguard would sit flush.
The BENEFIT is having the best of BOTH worlds. A 4001 & a 4003 sound all in one RIC.
Thanks guys!!
Ajish; Im not sure I wanna route anything on this. I dont want to mess with it any way like that but leave that body original with stuff like that. Guess a new harness is out. The knobs and toggle seem fine on it so I will let sleeping dogs lie. I will bypass that cap though. ^_^
Ive got stuff Ive been doing today and I keep walking by the case and I keep wanting to take it out and play it but if I do, my errands are shot for the day LOL
Ajish; Im not sure I wanna route anything on this. I dont want to mess with it any way like that but leave that body original with stuff like that. Guess a new harness is out. The knobs and toggle seem fine on it so I will let sleeping dogs lie.
I will bypass that cap though. ^_^Ive got stuff Ive been doing today and I keep walking by the case and I keep wanting to take it out and play it but if I do, my errands are shot for the day LOL
Thanks! And the Ric won out. Most of my stuff is done for the day and its sitting in my lap now. Surfing the net and playing it in between surfing. hehe
Wow. I personally think that RICs are one of the most sexiest looking basses built.
Nice RIC StarscreamG1. I actually pulled mine out of the closet and played it at a show last Saturday night. First time I've held her in a long time. Now if they only played as well as they looked, my long time love/hate relationship with RICs would turn to pure love.
I bypass the cap with a short, insulated solid core wire tightly twisted over both ends of the cap.
It's easier than soldering (I hate soldering) and easier to remove.
Strip enough of the wire to go around the cap leads 3 or 4 times, use needle nose pliers to twist the wire tightly, and you're done.
I've had my 4080 cap bypassed like this since I got it in 2005 and it's still solid, but solder it lightly (just enough to hold) if you feel the need for extra security so it can't come of in mid gig.
It's easier than soldering (I hate soldering) and easier to remove.
Strip enough of the wire to go around the cap leads 3 or 4 times, use needle nose pliers to twist the wire tightly, and you're done.
I've had my 4080 cap bypassed like this since I got it in 2005 and it's still solid, but solder it lightly (just enough to hold) if you feel the need for extra security so it can't come of in mid gig.
They had to grow on me a bit. Heheh One thing I have always liked about them was the upper horn and the binding. I always wanted a bass bound like my [lawsuit] Les Paul is (only guitar Ive ever owned BTW.. Im not a guitarist in the slightest LOL all lowender but I like to plink sometimes
) and the Ric is like that. As I said the rest had to grow on me and yea, they are very sweet and sexy and completely unmistakable when you see one thats for sure!That sounds like me and my first T40... weird neck it had and lots of relief and high action to boot and I knew nothing about set ups at the time. It was a chore to play. I hated it because of it (and its weight...LOL) but I loved the way it looked and sounded... it was a total love/hate relationship. The hate won out there and I ended up getting rid of it... thank goodness I came to me senses in time when I got back into playing a couple of years ago and grabbed a sweet 85 Burst to replace it (and accept its weight as part of the T40 'experience' now hehe). The neck on this one is so much nicer than my 79 had so now its a total love/love relationship. ^^ Errr maybe your Ric needs a better set up?? My Ric is so smooth and easy... its like the neck isnt even there, its just your hand and the strings.
Thankie for this! ^_^
