What are the best strings for rock?

[f.c.geil]

We haven't had this discussion in a while, so I thought I would title it thusly.

However, the actual question is this:

How do you decide what strings to use? What characteristics are most important to you? Do you use the strings that are used on most of the originals you cover, or do you use what you like?

I've pretty much narrowed it down to the Rotosound 66 and 77 sets, but only because I haven't played some others that I like the sound of (e.g. TI flats), but can't choose between them, and there is substantial setup difference between them, so I don't like to flip back and forth too often.

 

[JimmyM]

How do I decide? First, I look at what the cheapest strings on the market are, then I buy a set. At the time I settled on strings, D'addario XL's were the cheapest, and I like them, so I stuck with them for the past 20 odd years. Used Rotos for a while, but once other brands became cheaper and less hard on frets, I switched.

 

[f.c.geil]

Thanks, Jimmy. I knew I could count on you.

 

[mmbongo]

DR Sunbeams for my Spector NS-5

They have a huge bottom end and nice crisp (not harsh) top end. I've played a few strings like that, but what the DR's have that nothing else has is that smooth feel and low tension thanks to their round core.

 

[Nickthebass]

I have to admit ... I first came to this thread to see exactly how silly a question had been asked. Imagine my disappointment when it was actually quite a sensible one.

Probably the biggest thing for me is actually the feel under my fingers. Rotosounds are too grippy and flats generally are too slippery. Next is probably tone ... generally I favour nickle over steel. Finally is tension.

At the moment I'm pretty exclusively on D'Addario .045s.

 

[DeathFromBelow]

Yep, D'Addario XL's for me too.
Cheap, EVERYONE sells them and nothing wrong with the way they sound.

 

[P. Aaron]

DR Low Rider nickels have made my 2002 Precision (rw board) come alive. Especially on the g string. Seemingly more so than any other strings I have tried.

Am going to try these on my Precision V. Maple board. We'll see.

 

[lowendgenerator]

+1 to D'Addario XLs. Cheap, and a better finger feel than Ernie Ball IMO. Great all around string. If I'm feeling fancy I'll grab a set of DRs Hi Beams or Lo Riders.

 

[schecter5string]

I use DR High Beams, when brand new I find them a little too bright so I roll of the treble knob, but after a week they are a great string for my Schecter 5'er

 

[f.c.geil]

I have to admit ... I first came to this thread to see exactly how silly a question had been asked. Imagine my disappointment when it was actually quite a sensible one.

Yeah, I get tired of some of these silly questions, too. And yet, they hold the same fascination for me that a snake supposedly does to many other critters: I don't want to see them, but can't look away.

 

[shtik]

I think that as long as they're not snappy 40's or 35's any brand will do depending on taste.

I use Elixir 45's, and even though they're not having the best sound ever, their overall quality suits my needs. They sound like new by the time other sets would be replaced twice, sound good with fingers pick etc., their smooth feel make gliding the fingerboard much easier, and with their high tension they will not sound sloppy when you dig hard. For me the Elixir 45's win. After I got used to them I couldn't go back to any brand of strings I played before. And that's not just for rock but also R&B, Funk, Reggae and Pop in general.

But as I said before it's a matter of taste.

 

[meatwad]

D'Addario XL45s for my StingRay, and D'Addario ECB80 XL Chromes for my Precision.

 

[f.c.geil]

I'm somewhat surprised (although I shouldn't be) at the proliferation of low-buck strings. On the other hand, as best as I can tell, there are actually very few unique strings. For example, DR Lo-Riders are essentially the same string as GHS Bass Boomers, DR Hi-Beams Stainless are essentially the same as Rotosound SwingBass 66s, DR Sunbeams are essentially the same as Ernie Ball Slinkys, and so on.

I really expected to see more high-dollar strings (TIs, maybe) espoused. I'd still like to know how people decide whether to go with flats or rounds, and how to choose the best ones for your music. Is it really just chance?

 

[lowendgenerator]

I'm somewhat surprised (although I shouldn't be) at the proliferation of low-buck strings. On the other hand, as best as I can tell, there are actually very few unique strings. For example, DR Lo-Riders are essentially the same string as GHS Bass Boomers, DR Hi-Beams Stainless are essentially the same as Rotosound SwingBass 66s, DR Sunbeams are essentially the same as Ernie Ball Slinkys, and so on.

I really expected to see more high-dollar strings (TIs, maybe) espoused. I'd still like to know how people decide whether to go with flats or rounds, and how to choose the best ones for your music. Is it really just chance?

If I had one bass to string up, it would probably wear fancy strings. Seeing as how I have 10+, it would break the bank to put $60 strings on every bass. But that point is moot, because I'll never own just one bass.

Not understanding your DR = GHS, Rotosound and EB logic though. Bass Boomers don't sound, feel, or look anything like Lo-Riders. DR strings may share certain qualities with other strings, but they're definitely in a league of their own.

 

[Floyd Eye]

Tried a bunch. Stuck with Blue Steels for a long time. Tried Rotos. Sticking with Rotos. Both these strings are nice, aggressive and sit well in a mix.

 

[BassBob1]

You pretty much try strings till you find the ones you like. Then you try some more and go back to the strings you liked. At least thats how it went for me.

 

[f.c.geil]

Not understanding your DR = GHS, Rotosound and EB logic though. Bass Boomers don't sound, feel, or look anything like Lo-Riders. DR strings may share certain qualities with other strings, but they're definitely in a league of their own.

I'm not explaining myself very well. What I mean is that many companies (not picking on DR, I really don't have any brand loyalty for strings yet - obviously) have a hex-core round wound and a round core round wound, some are stainless, some are nickel, etc. They are substantially similar technologically, so if I try one hex core nickel round and don't like it, is it worth trying other brands of the same thing? Same with round core stainless, or hex core stainless flat wounds, etc. Is there a huge difference in the same string from different brands, or do you simply find the type of string you like, and go with that?

 

[jabsys]

I normally end up with whichever is cheapest, which normally means DAddario EXL165 or Fender 7250M.

 

[Jim Nazium]

It's all about the sound for me; that's how I choose them. TI flats on the jazz bass, which seems to be a match made in heaven, and currently TI Superalloys (pure nickel rounds) on my "modern" soapbar-equipped basses.

 

[OPBASSMAN1994]

Roto 66's. They sound the best out of the strings I've played, and for the longest time, too.

Better than the DR Hi-Beams, Better than D'Addario XL's or Chromes, better than Squier or Fender stock strings by a long shot. IMO

I look for that gritty, clangy, jangly sound out of new strings, and Rotos give it to me the best. There's a reason that Squire, Geddy, The Ox, and Mike Rutherford all use (or used) them.