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What cab? 4 Ohm, >= 500 watts, ~<30 lbs, cheap

Since when is being realistic and accurate being a wet blanket? Hey, I'm looking for a job where I can make $500k, only have to work 10 hours/week and can retire in 5 years with killer benefits. Anybody know where I can find one?

"Free lunch for all my friends!"
Yel_wink.gif
 
Since when is being realistic and accurate being a wet blanket? Hey, I'm looking for a job where I can make $500k, only have to work 10 hours/week and can retire in 5 years with killer benefits. Anybody know where I can find one?
Look, I get that he's looking for something hard to attain. and probably he will have to acquiesce on something, but do you START with that? I thought one would perhaps END with that if necessary. And then the like 12 people telling him to get an 8 ohm cab! For some reason it was just rubbing me the wrong way.
 
The folks recommending an 8 ohm cabinet were not aware that his particular amp was capable of driving 2 x 4 ohm loads, otherwise their advice was good IMO.

To lead the op on with inaccurate advice is not helping him in finding a realistic solution. In fact, it's a form of "bait and switch"
 
EDIT: Disregard this post, I forgot to include weight. It's about 60 lbs. Sorry!

You could snag a used Genz Benz NEOx 212t. It rocks 600 watts at 4 ohms, with two twelve inch drivers. Used, they can be found under $500. They also hold resale value really, really well.

I loved my Genz, but had to upgrade to a GK neo 810 for the loud punk rock band.
 
The tweeters are not 100-200 watts, no way, no how. They may be rated to work with speaker SYSTEMS rated at 100-200 watts. This is a common misconception with tweeter marketing in general.

Have you considered a used (Genz Benz) NeoX or Uber 212, both 4 ohm cabinets, a little heavier than your goal but meats the low and loud part. You should be able to find one in your price range as well.

I think you will have a hard (read as impossible) time finding any single driver speaker in the 500 watt (real, "RMS" or continuous average power) range for that kind of money. Even without a limit they are pretty darn rare. Be sure you understand how the ratings are made. Your amp is rated at 600 watts RMS per output channel, be sure that your speaker is rated for around 500 watts (or more) using the same "RMS" rating.

Note that "program power rating" of a speaker is typically defined numerically as 2x the RMS power, and peak power is 2x the program power or 4x the RMS power of the speaker. With amps, peak power rating has a different meaning, which is typically 2x the RMS rating of the amp. Your amp is rated at 600 watts per channel (RMS) and ~1200 watts per channel (peak). Be sure you understand how these units relate. I generally recommend a maximum of about 1.5x the RMS rating of the amp, and IMO between .75x and 1x the RMS rating is generally safer.
Hey Brother, great to have someone posting on the thread with such a depth of knowledge who works on this stuff day in and day out! In terms of Mesa Boogie ,the Subway series cabinets, I know on the website it says they're 8ohm only but if you make a special order will Mesa do a 4ohm Subway cabinet? Like, a 4ohm Subway 210 would be wicked, or a 4ohm Subway 15. About five years ago I had them do a 4-ohm 600-watt 210 for me, which is the shizz....:smug:
 
Hartke Hydrive 112. 30 lbs. switchable 4 to 8 ohms. So if you add a 2nd, you can set them both at 8 and stay at 4 ohm. I really like mine and the weight is a game changer.
I have not gigged other 112 stacks so i wont sit here and tell you its the best out there. But 2 of these puppies stacked, i like!
 
Hartke Hydrive 112. 30 lbs. switchable 4 to 8 ohms. So if you add a 2nd, you can set them both at 8 and stay at 4 ohm. I really like mine and the weight is a game changer.
I have not gigged other 112 stacks so i wont sit here and tell you its the best out there. But 2 of these puppies stacked, i like!
I totally forgot about the Hartke switchable ohms. I think Epifani has a series of cabs that you can do that as well, something about a dual voice coil , although I'm not exactly sure about the tech behind it. I think the biggest challenge here is the cheap part of the equation!
 
also, why is everyone on this thread such a wet blanket? holy moly.
That's just the amp forums for you. It usually takes past the first page before the usual suspects can get out the one liners that they post in every thread out of their system.

I'm just surprised that one guy hasn't burst in here and told me to consider something from the FENDER RUMBLE line...
 
I thought that was loud, light and low.

Is $500 really considered cheap? I'm totally ok with used - I'm in the SF Bay Area, Craigslist is booming.

Get fEARful 12/6 kit from Speaker Hardware... roughly $450

Build it..
Toss around 600+ watts to it.. 1100 in my case...
Smile, and rock it
You wouldn't regret it, or look back
 
That's just the amp forums for you. It usually takes past the first page before the usual suspects can get out the one liners that they post in every thread out of their system.

I'm just surprised that one guy hasn't burst in here and told me to consider something from the FENDER RUMBLE line...
How about Don Oatman and Low Down Sound cabs? He'll apparently custom build you whatever you want to your specs and apparently his prices aren't bad at all....
 
I didn't weigh it, but I can lift my Acme 2x10 low B cab with one hand. You can turn down mid and treble but not defeat the tweeter entirely. You could look into the Acme without the tweeter though, I think they call it the flat wound or something like that, and the price/weight I think would be in your range.
I used to play a couple of Acme B2s. They're a cool design but probably the last thing I'd recommend for "grindy overdriven Ric with occasional fuzz". At that point you'd have to turn off the tweeter and probably most (all?) of that midrange driver (which gets really papery-sounding with distortion, in my experience), so you're running an already inefficient 3-way cab with half its speakers turned off...

Their new upright-oriented tweeterless cabs seem like they might be cool, but I'd be skeptical of using them in a grindy/fuzzy rig...
 
Hartke Hydrive 112. 30 lbs. switchable 4 to 8 ohms. So if you add a 2nd, you can set them both at 8 and stay at 4 ohm. I really like mine and the weight is a game changer.
I have not gigged other 112 stacks so i wont sit here and tell you its the best out there. But 2 of these puppies stacked, i like!
Almost there, unfortunately the 112 is only rated at 300 watts. The 210 or 115 would be a much better fit, but don't appear to have the switchable impedance.
 
I didn't weigh it, but I can lift my Acme 2x10 low B cab with one hand. You can turn down mid and treble but not defeat the tweeter entirely. You could look into the Acme without the tweeter though, I think they call it the flat wound or something like that, and the price/weight I think would be in your range.


Edit: Yeah the Low B "flatwound" 112 - but not quite there on the weight - 37 lbs



Keep in mind also you can disconnect the pesky tweeter in most cabs pretty easily.
Weight isn't too bad, but I am concerned about the power rating of 350 watts. Owner's manual even says not to use it with anything more than a 500 watt amp. 91 dB sensitivity seems awful low too. In short, I would be afraid of blowing it up. Thanks for the recommendation though.
 
@David Jayne @steelbed45 thank you for the honest evaluations on Schroeder. I'll delve a bit deeper into the reviews - seems some people love them and have only good things to say, but there are definitely some concerning posts out there (yours among them).
Nothing concerning in my post. Just an honest evaluation. I think you might be getting too hung up on the 'watts' thing. The vast majority of speakers are thermally rated. You can generally cut that in half for real-world use. That's just reality.