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What instrument cables do you use?

I make my own, usually from ones other folks are throwing away because they "wore out". That just means they don't know how to replace the plugs.

Lots of snake oil out there in the wide, wide world of wires. Good quality connectors are worth the couple extra bucks.
 
I make my own, usually from ones other folks are throwing away because they "wore out". That just means they don't know how to replace the plugs.

Lots of snake oil out there in the wide, wide world of wires. Good quality connectors are worth the couple extra bucks.
agree.gif
 
I got 3 from which to choose:
Planet Waves - a short 10 footer for home use
Radio Shack - unknown vintage but quiet and well made - main cable
Fender - also unknown age but the guitarist was thinking it looks kinda '70-ish because the outer plastic is a see-thru blue color - my backup cable.
 
I seriously have a friend that only buys (I forget the brand) cables that are over $150 each. I think it is silly. If all of the wires in the whole signal chain are up to the same specs I would say it make sense. From the pickup wires, pots, jack, cable, pedals (if applicable), jack, to all internal wiring related to sound in the amp, to di, to speakers. It seems you're only as good as your weakest link in the signal chain. Is the wire in a cheap instrument cable really that much worse than everything else in the chain?

I'm open for an electrician or electrical engineer to correct me though. I also don't buy that just because there is a slight change in tone that it is because the cable enhanced anything. The signal path is simply different. Like removing an unused pedal versus bypassing.
 
DiMarzio's
Noticeable improvement over the cheapies was using before. Been using the same two long (10' & 18') cables for the past 5 years without any failures. The braid shows wear, one end is starting to unravel, but the cord it's self is still in excellent condition. I've had over 40 of their short patch cables on a few pedalboards with only one failure because it was stretched and strained around a sharp corner. The stiffness is beneficial for most scenarios, but I am considering a more flexible cord for bigger stages where there is more space to move around. Probably will make my own cable next time and put a straight connector on one end and angled on the other.
Never payed more than $20 for a cable. Not much more to gain by paying more.
 
Monster bass cable here. Bought one years ago and just replace it every so often before it even has a chance to fail. Never had a problem with it. I think I only spent like $20 on the original one. Sometimes I replace it just when it gets too dirty. Can't really complain about that.
 
I seriously have a friend that only buys (I forget the brand) cables that are over $150 each. I think it is silly. If all of the wires in the whole signal chain are up to the same specs I would say it make sense. From the pickup wires, pots, jack, cable, pedals (if applicable), jack, to all internal wiring related to sound in the amp, to di, to speakers. It seems you're only as good as your weakest link in the signal chain. Is the wire in a cheap instrument cable really that much worse than everything else in the chain?

I'm open for an electrician or electrical engineer to correct me though. I also don't buy that just because there is a slight change in tone that it is because the cable enhanced anything. The signal path is simply different. Like removing an unused pedal versus bypassing.

There is variation in tonal characteristics between even high-quality instrument cables, depending mostly on the inherent capacitance of the cable. It could be that cheap cables give you the sound you want, so you should buy those, as long as they have quality plugs like Neutrik or Switchcraft.
 
I've been using GC's Live Wire. Years ago in the 80's I always used Whirlwind. What ever happen to them, I never see them in store's anymore?

Still very much around. Whirlwind is all I use. Some former bandmates turned me on to them and they've never failed any of us, but they have a lifetime guarantee anyway. And great customer service.

When I first started using a pedal and needed an extra cable, I used the one Whirlwind I had and the cheapo CBI I had around. I couldn't get a signal at all. The CBI worked fine directly into the amp, but in the chain, nothing. I got another Whirlwind and no problem with the signal.

And there's also Invalid Link Removed, in the second paragraph. I love that story.
 
I seriously have a friend that only buys (I forget the brand) cables that are over $150 each. I think it is silly. If all of the wires in the whole signal chain are up to the same specs I would say it make sense. From the pickup wires, pots, jack, cable, pedals (if applicable), jack, to all internal wiring related to sound in the amp, to di, to speakers. It seems you're only as good as your weakest link in the signal chain. Is the wire in a cheap instrument cable really that much worse than everything else in the chain?

I'm open for an electrician or electrical engineer to correct me though. I also don't buy that just because there is a slight change in tone that it is because the cable enhanced anything. The signal path is simply different. Like removing an unused pedal versus bypassing.


Copper is copper, assuming it's been refined to high enough purity. Maybe there's some cheaper copper out there that isn't as pure...I don't know.

What some places will do to make cheap cable is use thinner guage wire than they should ( less copper costs less ) and then put thicker insulation around it so it feels like something more than it is, so watch out for that.


And to ammend my earlier post, I have bought one cord new in the box......a white Fender coily cord. :)
 
I've got a couple of those. The inductance in a doily cord is supposed to roll off some high end but not effect bass frequencies. But they look so cool, so even if they did, it wouldn't matter.

It does make sense that they would lose a little treble but I don't notice it. I use it with a P-bass, nickel roundwounds with the tone wide open, but, I don't run tweeters or go for an extra bright sound. My speakers don't have much going on above 5khz so whatever it does must be above that.

And yeah, it looks way cool.