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What's On Your Workbench?

So complete and utter silence? :D:thumbsup:

Except when reading Talkbass of course…
Ya know,....between switching to a new role at work, stuff going on at home and a recent roller coaster of health stuff, I haven't been able to get anywhere near building a bass, other than to think about it and do a few doodles on paper. An unfortunate side effect of not building is that when I'm on TB, I'm venturing off into other sections of the site. It's not healthy. It does things to you.
I need some type of filter that only lets me see LC.
 
Carvin put built-in noise gates in all of their amps back then, and I believe they still do.
Sadly, Carvin is no longer producing bass amps. Several years ago they closed their electronics factory and stopped production of amps, cabs and PA equipment entirely. Since then they’ve started to crawl back into the market with some pedals, PA cabs and a guitar amp - just a handful of products - but no bass amplification as of yet.

Their last generation of bass amps, which included the BX series, did not feature a noise gate. I’m not sure when it got dropped, but I think it had only been a vestige of the ’80s when effects were de rigeur and gates were often needed. I’m guessing gates were gone from their bass gear by the late ‘90s, but that’s just a guess.

Some players don't like them for that reason. They "don't have a good sound".
When I said this little PB-100 wasn’t the best sounding bass amp I certainly didn’t mean to slag Carvin at all. They made really reliable, good quality gear at an affordable price point for decades and I actually like the clean, uncolored sound of their bass amps. My criticism was specific to this particular combo which is low on power but, more importantly, low on bass. That’s not something I love in a bass amp. Fortunately there’s enough EQ to get a usable sound out of it.

I’ve owned and used (and liked) an assortment of Carvin gear over the years and this volume pot is only the second repair I’ve ever needed to perform on a piece of their equipment (the first being a dead pickup in a friend’s Strat-style Carvin guitar 15 years ago).
 
Ya know,....between switching to a new role at work, stuff going on at home and a recent roller coaster of health stuff, I haven't been able to get anywhere near building a bass, other than to think about it and do a few doodles on paper. An unfortunate side effect of not building is that when I'm on TB, I'm venturing off into other sections of the site. It's not healthy. It does things to you.
I need some type of filter that only lets me see LC.



Yeah, I posted something in the “Basses” forum that wasn’t jumping on Fender like most everyone else in the thread and quickly got reminded of why I usually only post here and the repair and pickups forums. :rollno:
 
Just picked up a new Clydesdale case for this 8 string.
IMG_8532.JPG
 
So I acquired this poor soul....
20230209_191715.jpg 20230209_191731.jpg
The savvy among you will remember this body from my first build thread. This was something our very own @Rôckhewer was saving for a future project. His idea was to double-neck it, but he just never got to it. His recent move to become Neal Moser 2.0 found him needing to purge stuff, so knowing that I have a thing for these F-series bodies he reached out to me to see if I was interested and I went ahead and took it off his hands. Thanks Kevin! Appreciate you brother. :cool:
Since Kevin boxed it up in a fan box and drew a Yggdrasil symbol on the fan blades, I guess we're calling this one Yggdrasil. So thanks for naming it Kevin! :smug:
I'm not 100% sure what my overall plan is, but this will just be a refinish project for me. I'm thinking either a proper 80s crackle finish or one of those 80s blood splatter finishes. Blood splatter doesn't really fir the whole Yggdrasil theme tho, so that may be out. I already have 2 basses with swirl finishes, one of those being an F-series, so I don't really need another swirl finished bass. I kind of want to do something different with this one.
I need to source a neck, or just build one. I could build one, I'm not worried about that at all. And building one would allow me to build something really cool. But on the other hand, my 2 other F-series basses are both LTD models. It would be nice to have a proper ESP neck for this one, just because. So we'll see how it develops. I think if I can find a proper ESP 5-string neck I may just jump on it. If someone here has one they want to sell, hit me up and we'll talk. If I build a neck, I will probably do a custom inlay along the lines of one of these, because Yggdrasil -
Screenshot 2023-02-10 083317.jpg Screenshot 2023-02-10 082308.jpg
In the mean time, I'll add this one to the queue and we'll see how long it takes me to get to it. :roflmao:
 
I love the F series body styling. I tried a few drawings using it as the model for my future/someday 6 string build, but I couldn't get past thinking that the little fins/nubs might be uncomfy. And if I changed the lines even a small amount, it didn't look right at all.
I really like the one sig model that has even sharper nubs and a cool carve on the top. I might build a replica some day anyway, even if it's not the most comfy. It's just too cool.
 
I love the F series body styling. I tried a few drawings using it as the model for my future/someday 6 string build, but I couldn't get past thinking that the little fins/nubs might be uncomfy. And if I changed the lines even a small amount, it didn't look right at all.
I really like the one sig model that has even sharper nubs and a cool carve on the top. I might build a replica some day anyway, even if it's not the most comfy. It's just too cool.
That's the Tom Araya (slayer) model, I love it! :cool:
I'll be honest, like I said I've got 2 of them already and you honestly don't even notice the nubs when playing them. And there aren't any nubs on the lower side so sitting is the same as a P bass.
I used the F-series as the basis of my body design for Lucifer, it's a hybrid cross-over of an F-series and a Dingwall -
20220401_181645.jpg
And again, you don't even notice the nubs when playing it. :cool:
 
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I have my main Walnut bass on the bench. The fretboard(babinga) lacquer is pretty chewed up from the round wound strings. I’m removing the finish on the fingerboard.
I will give it a slight oiling afterwards.
And I haven’t boiled bass strings in a very long time….:smug:
18839162-DBF3-426D-A720-6B85A14AC087.jpeg


Almost done:cool:…but hard on the teeth.
CE18EB73-C77D-49B4-8A28-D30E8C3ADBD5.jpeg
 
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I have my main Walnut bass on the bench. The fretboard(babinga) lacquer is pretty chewed up from the round wound strings. I’m removing the finish on the fingerboard.
I will give it a slight oiling afterwards.
And I haven’t boiled bass strings in a very long time….:smug:
View attachment 4964713

Almost done:cool:…but hard on the teeth.
View attachment 4964714


That’s good soup! :D
 
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About a year ago I finished up the tubscrod uke bass. Since then it has made a few appearances out in the wild, serving its "walk up on stage, plug in, ready to go", purpose (open mic night specialty). XLR/phantom powered pre-amp, zero controls, at all. It plugs directly into the board. Stage/FOH volume/EQ/effects are all the sound guy's problem. Show up, play, leave.
I have noticed that in (too) high stage volume settings it can be on the edge of howling if I don't hand mute the strings. The default sound guy response, if he hears it, is to drop the bass out of the stage mix.
To forestall those bad decisions, I finally cut out a sound hole plug.

I was going to cast one in rubber, but ended up using wood. I'd cut out a small jewelry box using the tubscrod sound hole heart CAM drawing as a starting point for Valentines Day, and this plug is simply a slightly thicker version of the jewelry box lid. 2 birds, one CNC.
The plug is manzanita, a light wipe of true oil outside, and the interference fit surfaces are painted with a few thin coats of clear rubber sealer. I volume tested it with/without the plug out in the shop at full boogie (Mackie board into SVT4+15+4x10), and it kills all tendency to howl even at absolute jackass, ear plugs required volumes.
I'll probably ad a small, recessed, (and pop-free/capped) on/off switch on any future tubscrods.

Manzanita! Better looking than black rubber.
tubscrod-plug-2-800w.jpg


Thin layer of rubber sealer on edge and lip bottom.
tubscrod-plug-3-800w.jpg


Installed. It's a medium/light press fit, doesn't move at all.
tubscrod-plug-1-800w.jpg


Rick
 
About a year ago I finished up the tubscrod uke bass. Since then it has made a few appearances out in the wild, serving its "walk up on stage, plug in, ready to go", purpose (open mic night specialty). XLR/phantom powered pre-amp, zero controls, at all. It plugs directly into the board. Stage/FOH volume/EQ/effects are all the sound guy's problem. Show up, play, leave.
I have noticed that in (too) high stage volume settings it can be on the edge of howling if I don't hand mute the strings. The default sound guy response, if he hears it, is to drop the bass out of the stage mix.
To forestall those bad decisions, I finally cut out a sound hole plug.

I was going to cast one in rubber, but ended up using wood. I'd cut out a small jewelry box using the tubscrod sound hole heart CAM drawing as a starting point for Valentines Day, and this plug is simply a slightly thicker version of the jewelry box lid. 2 birds, one CNC.
The plug is manzanita, a light wipe of true oil outside, and the interference fit surfaces are painted with a few thin coats of clear rubber sealer. I volume tested it with/without the plug out in the shop at full boogie (Mackie board into SVT4+15+4x10), and it kills all tendency to howl even at absolute jackass, ear plugs required volumes.
I'll probably ad a small, recessed, (and pop-free/capped) on/off switch on any future tubscrods.

Manzanita! Better looking than black rubber.
View attachment 4964816

Thin layer of rubber sealer on edge and lip bottom.
View attachment 4964815

Installed. It's a medium/light press fit, doesn't move at all.
View attachment 4964814

Rick
Pure awesomeness!
 

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