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What's On Your Workbench?

I used the scroll saw to cut out the Tibetan/Buddhist symbol for “unconditional love” . It will go on the box as well. He was a Buddhist, primarily… he kinda mish mashed a couple religions into his own belief, but the primary was the principles taught in Buddhism.

Anyway, I’ll clean it up a little, but I like it. It was a reasonably delicate cut on the scroll saw.

IMG_1271.jpeg
IMG_1273.jpeg
 
That's super cool. :cool:
I want to get my scroll saw fixed. But in the mean time I'm just using an old coping saw for that kind of stuff.
My scroll saw is the ShopSmith stand-alone unit and the belt broke. And for the life of me I can not find a replacement belt, or figure out how to get to the belt to get it off.
Ahh.

Yeah, I use my scroll saw quite a bit. The key to a scroll saw is either getting one with a heavy cast iron base, or bolting / clamping it down to the table solidly.

Of course with a shopsmith scroll saw, yours isn’t going anywhere !

I wonder if bandsaw belts would work for it ?


I found this thread on refurbishing a Shopsmith scroll saw. I haven’t read the thread, but maybe there’s some info in there for you. Or maybe you could contact the guy in the original post ?

Link Removed
 
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Ahh.

Yeah, I use my scroll saw quite a bit. The key to a scroll saw is either getting one with a heavy cast iron base, or bolting / clamping it down to the table solidly.

Of course with a shopsmith scroll saw, yours isn’t going anywhere !

I wonder if bandsaw belts would work for it ?


I found this thread on refurbishing a Shopsmith scroll saw. I haven’t read the thread, but maybe there’s some info in there for you. Or maybe you could contact the guy in the original post ?

Link Removed
Yeah, I've looked that thread over quite a bit, but mine is not SS mounted, it's a stand-alone one like this -
ScrollSaw.jpg
So it has an electric motor mounted under the table and a belt drive to drive the cutter mechanism. It seems like all of the threads (like that one) that I find are for the unit that mounts directly to the SS, which would be driven by a standard SS coupler -
100_0732.jpg
I'm thinking about just getting one of those adjustable link belts and doing that, because you can just wrap it around the pulleys and click it together at whatever length you need -
adjustable-link-belt-intro-1.jpg
 
Yeah, I've looked that thread over quite a bit, but mine is not SS mounted, it's a stand-alone one like this -
View attachment 7011520
So it has an electric motor mounted under the table and a belt drive to drive the cutter mechanism. It seems like all of the threads (like that one) that I find are for the unit that mounts directly to the SS, which would be driven by a standard SS coupler -
View attachment 7011521
I'm thinking about just getting one of those adjustable link belts and doing that, because you can just wrap it around the pulleys and click it together at whatever length you need -
View attachment 7011522
I’ve had pretty good luck with those cheap(ish) Accu-Link belts from Horror Freight.

They sit a little proud in a typical 1/2” V-pulley but they definitely reduce vibration, which is really nice when dealing with old, fussy machines. Of course, the adjustable length is also a tremendous advantage!

I currently have them on my little Shopmaster table saw and my Craftsman drill press, both over 60 years old. I plan to utilize them on my jointer and bandsaw once I finish restoring them.
 
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And about that bandsaw…

It’s been a few weeks since I got much done on that but progress has finally been made again.

I routed a slot for a miter gauge and I made and inset a throat plate (scrap 1/8” aluminum which was laying around the shop):
IMG_7424.jpeg

Then I started applying finish; first a heavy single coat on the underside to seal the particle board and then a few coats on the oak edge pieces. I’m using oil-based Varithane poly:
IMG_7435.jpeg

If I had known how great the grain would look on this oak once some finish was applied I might have used crappier wood but, hey, it’ll be the prettiest bandsaw in my neighborhood:
IMG_7434.jpeg

IMG_7433.jpeg

IMG_7425.jpeg

IMG_7426.jpeg


The previous owner of this saw had it geared pretty slow for metal work. I could have replaced the pulley on the motor side only but that old, cast aluminum pulley wasn’t very true and was adding a lot of vibration to the machine. I decided to replace both pulleys with decent cast iron ones and that will remedy the vibration and bring the speed up for woodwork. Once I get those installed all that’s left is to mount the table top and order some blades!
 
Been a while since I posted so I thought I would share a lovely tool I recently added to the shop. This is the “fractal fret press” by JEdwards Guitars. Really loving it for compound radiuses, which is pretty much all I do. I have talked to him on Instagram a few times and he is a super nice guy as well!

IMG_0934.jpeg


IMG_0932.jpeg
 
Been a while since I posted so I thought I would share a lovely tool I recently added to the shop. This is the “fractal fret press” by JEdwards Guitars. Really loving it for compound radiuses, which is pretty much all I do. I have talked to him on Instagram a few times and he is a super nice guy as well!

View attachment 7014529

View attachment 7014528

I picked one up a few months ago, but haven't used it yet. Looks to be very well made. I'm especially looking forward to the added pressure you can get on the fret ends with that tool. I should be using mine within a week or so. :)
 
Yeah, I've looked that thread over quite a bit, but mine is not SS mounted, it's a stand-alone one like this -
View attachment 7011520
So it has an electric motor mounted under the table and a belt drive to drive the cutter mechanism. It seems like all of the threads (like that one) that I find are for the unit that mounts directly to the SS, which would be driven by a standard SS coupler -
View attachment 7011521
I'm thinking about just getting one of those adjustable link belts and doing that, because you can just wrap it around the pulleys and click it together at whatever length you need -
View attachment 7011522
Hey Tim;

What's the problem getting the belt off? Usually you just loosen the motor mount bolts and tilt it or slide it to slacken the belt. Then pop it off the side of the pulleys. Is this something more complicated?

I've had mixed results with those link-type belts. They work well on some machines, but not on others. I have them on several of my medium size drill presses, and they work fine. But on higher load machines, they have less traction and will vibrate more than a good modern V-belt.

My favorite V-belts are the modern Cogged V-Belts and the High Capacity Narrow Wedge Cogged V-Belts. They take a lot of torque and wrap tightly around small pulleys. Smooth running and long lasting. I get them from McMasters.


 
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Not made at all presentable.. unreadable, missing stuff, yada yada. but I've been going mad for months working on this...

I'm in the middle of a build that was for the winter buildoff, that I'm now about to get around to making a new SBO thread, but I've been 99% working on this preamp the whole time. And now it's close to finalized, so I can get back to making sawdust

I've learned so much just by being very critical and editing-focused, as well as the unique constraints that pop up in an onboard preamp.

So just to clear my throat as I turn the corner back to documenting my build (and doing some building again), here's my messy perpetually-in-progress schematic

schempreviewaugust.png



The BMT eq has some unique tricks to craft a particular response- namely a partly-peaking partly-shelving bass and treble, which attempts to emphasize and exaggerate the instrument's voice.. the treble opens up the string and finger noise a bit, without that (IMO) terrible airy/glassy content that gets added in with the typical amp/stereo type baxandall (or really any shelfing eq). Similarly, the bass control is centered around ~75hz, which for this instrument seems to be the sweet spot. When boosted, the peak at 75hz goes up to 12db+, but the lowest lows essentially raise as a shelf, but only at about a 1:2 ratio to the peak. So you never get the big yawny boomy dumbness, but you DO get enough near-subharmonics boosting to keep the bass natural and full sounding. The bass and treble have a shelfing response when cut. The mids are a pretty wide boost and cut centered around 450hz. Part of the checklist is that with all bands boosted fully, it sounds good. It's basically a hyper exaggerated version of the natural freq content of the instrument.

The simple mids are helped by the inclusion of some 'contour' switches. These give a subtle-but-not-too-subtle baked in 'preset' to the frequency response.
-There's a pulltec-trick type shape, with boosted lows and a veryyyyy carefully chosen scoop in the low mids. Not too low, not too high, doesn't kill you in the mix
-A classic ~800hz scoop for a very jazzbass slap sound
-a lowmid-bump to a lonnnnnnnnnng rolloff of the highs.. very motown, but detailed
-and finally, a wittle presence-boost.
These have been a HUGE portion of the time spent, and they have gone through soooo many iterations. They have also helped me grow a lot; over and over I had to be very intentional about not being precious about ideas or stubborn about certain approaches or initial designs. I spent months crafting contour controls that dialed in with a single gang pot. It was so hard, so challenging, and I'm very proud of a couple of the circuits... only to finally decide that some toggle switches would be better. The one-knob pulltec is an especially nice trophy, and its going on basically every pedal I ever make going forward.

I'll eventually make a good post in one of my threads, with a better schematic for me to blather on about.



anyhoo, just trying to get myself moving!
 
Hey Tim;

What's the problem getting the belt off? Usually you just loosen the motor mount bolts and tilt it or slide it to slacken the belt. Then pop it off the side of the pulleys. Is this something more complicated?

I've had mixed results with those link-type belts. They work well on some machines, but not on others. I have them on several of my medium size drill presses, and they work fine. But on higher load machines, they have less traction and will vibrate more than a good modern V-belt.

My favorite V-belts are the modern Cogged V-Belts and the High Capacity Narrow Wedge Cogged V-Belts. They take a lot of torque and wrap tightly around small pulleys. Smooth running and long lasting. I get them from McMasters.


Hey Bruce,
That's part of the problem, I can't figure out the order of operations to get the pulleys off. And from what I see, neither pulley has an open side, they seem to have a shaft that goes all the way thru and into bearings on both sides. So I can't just slide the belt over one side.
 
Couple years ago I acquired some pistachio logs. One was a trunk, most were primary branches. I sliced the trunk into 4x 8/4(+) slabs, painted the ends, stuck the slices in the wood rack, weighted them down, forgot about it. Last spring I sliced up one of the slabs. It had moved a bit during drying, but was still pretty flat. It was planed and cut into neck blank sized lumber pieces. Then, back on the rack. Last week I took a look and it was dead stable, no movement since resawing.
This wood is from orchard trees, and they get pretty violently shaken during harvest, and there are some healed up shake/stress injuries.
I've cut acoustic guitar wrap bridges and uke fretboards from the branch pieces before. This week I cut out a one-piece neck blank and finger board. This will be for a 30" scale fretless I'm mulling over in my head. Probably hollow-body, floating wood bridge, piezo only, maybe a... scroll head. Still in the "what-if" design stage. This one's for me, so there is freedom to play around.

Pistachio (vera) is a lot harder than hard maple (1950 vs.1450 janka), and a bit heavier. The wood takes a polish very well, though I'll likely coat the finger board with CA. The CA will pull the deeper colors out somewhat. It also seems to be quite a bit less bendy than maple. One piece maple neck blanks can be flexed, but this pistachio blank feels more like a multi-piece neck blank. Very rigid.

The neck blank pic shows some of the healed up scarring, they look like sap pockets but are solid wood. Fingerboard has a knot that has been filled w/ black epoxy and a small patch piece.
This one will have some "character".
Warts and all.

Pics:
pistachio-slice.jpg pistachio-bridges-950w.jpg pistacio-neck+fb-750w.jpg. raw-fingerboard-750w.jpg
 
Couple years ago I acquired some pistachio logs. One was a trunk, most were primary branches. I sliced the trunk into 4x 8/4(+) slabs, painted the ends, stuck the slices in the wood rack, weighted them down, forgot about it. Last spring I sliced up one of the slabs. It had moved a bit during drying, but was still pretty flat. It was planed and cut into neck blank sized lumber pieces. Then, back on the rack. Last week I took a look and it was dead stable, no movement since resawing.
This wood is from orchard trees, and they get pretty violently shaken during harvest, and there are some healed up shake/stress injuries.
I've cut acoustic guitar wrap bridges and uke fretboards from the branch pieces before. This week I cut out a one-piece neck blank and finger board. This will be for a 30" scale fretless I'm mulling over in my head. Probably hollow-body, floating wood bridge, piezo only, maybe a... scroll head. Still in the "what-if" design stage. This one's for me, so there is freedom to play around.

Pistachio (vera) is a lot harder than hard maple (1950 vs.1450 janka), and a bit heavier. The wood takes a polish very well, though I'll likely coat the finger board with CA. The CA will pull the deeper colors out somewhat. It also seems to be quite a bit less bendy than maple. One piece maple neck blanks can be flexed, but this pistachio blank feels more like a multi-piece neck blank. Very rigid.

The neck blank pic shows some of the healed up scarring, they look like sap pockets but are solid wood. Fingerboard has a knot that has been filled w/ black epoxy and a small patch piece.
This one will have some "character".
Warts and all.

Pics:
View attachment 7017106 View attachment 7017108 View attachment 7017107. View attachment 7017110


Very nice. I’ve only gotten pistachio in pen blank sizes to make knobs from. I’d love to find some fretboard size pieces that weren’t crazy expensive.
 
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Looks good! A nice design table for that saw. The only problem is......It's way too clean. You need to get some wear and grime ground into it. The real way, from hours of use.
What…. I can’t just “relic” it?!?

Still waiting for belt pulleys and I finally put in a blade order so it should be running again soon. Then, I promise you, it’ll get dirty!
 
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