Who can make me a non standard bridge plate?

[don21480]

I need a bridge plate for a '54 P bass clone thats about 5/8" longer than the standard bridge plate - the holes for the string thru are slightly further from the neck than normal so I can't get it intonated properly unless the g string saddle is hanging off the plate - any ideas?

 

[Stumbo]

I need a bridge plate for a '54 P bass clone thats about 5/8" longer than the standard bridge plate - the holes for the string thru are slightly further from the neck than normal so I can't get it intonated properly unless the g string saddle is hanging off the plate - any ideas?

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A general answer is a machine shop that can cut, bend and drill metal.

 

[bassdude51]

You have about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch to play with by remounting the bridge forward and slotting the holes for the strings and redrilling the mounting screws.

Or, you could use some heavier gauge strings which will require that you intonate the saddles backward.

 

[don21480]

I'm pretty sure I don't want to mess with the body - heavier strings is an option - I think the machine shop is my best bet. Was hoping someone here might know of a company that makes 1 off guitar parts. I'd be happy with a bent plate '51 style 2 saddle bridge plate and found 1 local shop that will take a look at it on monday so fingers crossed that will work out. Thanks!

 

[celeste hall]

I need a bridge plate for a '54 P bass clone thats about 5/8" longer than the standard bridge plate - the holes for the string thru are slightly further from the neck than normal so I can't get it intonated properly unless the g string saddle is hanging off the plate - any ideas?

View attachment 3248791

what sort of whatever do you want it made from?

 

[don21480]

Probably whatever metal is used or these - just 5/8" or so longer. It does not have to be brass or titanium etc. I'm assumng the originals were nothing fancy in terms of material.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I trust you're setting intonation 12th fretted vs 12th harmonic? A couple of no-dough trials that may buy you some real estate:

*Re-set your witness points.

*Slightly loosen the neck bolts with the strings-to-pitch then re-tighten. Sometimes that will draw the neck deeper into the pocket.

Riis

 

[bobdabilder]

I promise i am not being a jerk: did something change so that it won't intonate? would it never intonate? are you sure you going the right direction with the intonation?
Edit : new build?

I need a bridge plate for a '54 P bass clone thats about 5/8" longer than the standard bridge plate - the holes for the string thru are slightly further from the neck than normal so I can't get it intonated properly unless the g string saddle is hanging off the plate - any ideas?

View attachment 3248791

 

[don21480]

Yes - I am setting at 12th fretted.

I'm not convinced about the witness points (had a long discussion with 2 local luthiers who both denounced it and cited some convincing reasoning as to why it was not a valid part of any setup procedure) Being a skeptic I did give it a try based on the thread here on talkbass but in this situation it did not help. Maybe Dan Erlewine can convince me in a video one day

I'll try the neck bolt thing

thanks for the suggestions!

 

[don21480]

@bobdabilder - good question!

No the string thru holes are def at the wrong place - finished body came from MJT predrilled. When having trouble with the setup I had a friend who has an actual 1954 P bass do some measurements so we could compare and these holes are further back than the original '54. This bass has some celebrity provenance and I love it and it sounds and plays amazing so it was modified by said celebrity to use a Fender HiMass bridge on it top loaded and edged forward a bit (the hi mass rear part covers the original holes) and it works fine but I'd like to have a string thru bridge on hand so its functional both ways. It will intonate but its literally on th edge of the bridge plate for the G string.

 

[bobdabilder]

Understood.

@bobdabilder - good question!

No the string thru holes are def at the wrong place - finished body came from MJT predrilled. When having trouble with the setup I had a friend who has an actual 1954 P bass do some measurements so we could compare and these holes are further back than the original '54. This bass has some celebrity provenance and I love it and it sounds and plays amazing so it was modified by said celebrity to use a Fender HiMass bridge on it top loaded and edged forward a bit (the hi mass rear part covers the original holes) and it works fine but I'd like to have a string thru bridge on hand so its functional both ways. It will intonate but its literally on th edge of the bridge plate for the G string.

View attachment 3248950

 

[bholder]

Someone actually makes an extended standard bridge plate, I remember seeing it. Not sure it would fit your needs and not sure I can find it again though.

 

[don21480]

wow that would be phenominal good luck!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I used to make a lot of custom hardware like this for clients, but I don't any more. I simply don't have the time.

My recommendation is to make the new bridge base from 0.063" (16 ga) stainless steel. It can be sawed out with a hacksaw, bent in a heavy vise, filed smooth on the edges, and drilled in a drill press. And you can give it a light brushed (that is, sanded) finish, which will look nice and save you the trouble of getting it polished and plated. A milling machine will make the job faster, but you can make it with a workbench and hand tools. I'm just sayin'.

You can also try Frets On The Net:
Frets On The Net Home
I haven't dealt with them personally, but it sounds like this is exactly their business; custom instrument hardware.

 

[don21480]

@Bruce Johnson thanks for the idea - i have a business client with a sheet metal shop and never thought to ask him about this. I know he does stainless restaurant stuff so maybe he can do it!

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Who ever made that body mounted the bridge and drilled the through-holes in the wrong spot. I've never seen a P with a bridge mounted that close to the end of the body.

edit: Whoops... didn't see that in your original post

 

[Bruce Johnson]

@Bruce Johnson thanks for the idea - i have a business client with a sheet metal shop and never thought to ask him about this. I know he does stainless restaurant stuff so maybe he can do it!

Yes, if he does stainless restaurant work, he'll have scraps of 16 ga stainless filling his dumpster. Most countertops and sinks are made from it. He can easily shear it, bend it and punch the holes. Take him a drawing or the part and a sketch.

16 ga stainless is strong enough for a Fender-style bent-plate bridge. I've used it many times. For aluminum, I use 0.090".

 

[Pbassmanca]

@bobdabilder - good question!

No the string thru holes are def at the wrong place - finished body came from MJT predrilled. When having trouble with the setup I had a friend who has an actual 1954 P bass do some measurements so we could compare and these holes are further back than the original '54. This bass has some celebrity provenance and I love it and it sounds and plays amazing so it was modified by said celebrity to use a Fender HiMass bridge on it top loaded and edged forward a bit (the hi mass rear part covers the original holes) and it works fine but I'd like to have a string thru bridge on hand so its functional both ways. It will intonate but its literally on th edge of the bridge plate for the G string.

View attachment 3248950

Hahahaha, you should just use it completely out of intonation like all of the funk and soul players did back in the 70s on all of the major top selling recordings....

 

[Bruce Johnson]

@bobdabilder - good question!

No the string thru holes are def at the wrong place - finished body came from MJT predrilled. When having trouble with the setup I had a friend who has an actual 1954 P bass do some measurements so we could compare and these holes are further back than the original '54. This bass has some celebrity provenance and I love it and it sounds and plays amazing so it was modified by said celebrity to use a Fender HiMass bridge on it top loaded and edged forward a bit (the hi mass rear part covers the original holes) and it works fine but I'd like to have a string thru bridge on hand so its functional both ways. It will intonate but its literally on th edge of the bridge plate for the G string.

View attachment 3248950

Another way to solve this problem is to move the string-through bridge forward 1/4" or so. Redrill the screw holes ahead of their current locations, but still keeping the old screw holes underneath. That will get the bridge in the right position to get the saddles and intonation correct. You can plug and fill the old screw holes if you want, but it isn't necessary.

With the bridge screwed down, mark the locations of the string through holes. Pull the bridge off. Now use a small round file or a little bit in a Dremel tool to make the string through holes curve forward to meet their new locations. The point is that the drilled string through holes can be back a little bit from the holes in the bridge plate, as long as the passage up through the body is flared to line up. The string doesn't care if it goes up at a slight angle.

 

[REV]

There's a website called emachineshop.com. You can submit a drawing of what you want made and small machine shops from all over will bid on your job. Do your homework and get references. Good luck with your project.