• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Who plays with a really low action? Pics please?

#106
Yep, Dave is the best...love him...I've watched so many of his videos its bordering on obsession. lol but you do learn a lot if you don't already know about setting guitars and basses up. He is super good with electronics and doing cosmetic repairs too...stuff I wouldn't dare to attempt. He does it all, and if you watch enough of his videos you will get all of the measurements, and stuff he uses...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bonruiz and Mingus_Habens
#107
He is an inspiration for me, I watch all his videos and keep learning while having fun. I do setups by myself but for electronics, repairs etc. I still call my luthier/tech simply because I'm not an expert and I don't have the tools to do that kind of job.
Dave has his own specs and measurement which are a good reference point, but every instrument is different and you'll realize that after spending some time doing setups.
 
#111
Hypercaffium said:
Why? Are you afraid of a couple of screws?
Click to expand...
Tell you the truth, if I had another bass I love as much (I have another one, that is another long story, you can find it in another thread) I would take the chance. Right now its playble, and Ive managed to lower it almost to the point I wanted. It sounds great, and if something goes wrong in the prosses and I lose the playability bass (dont have luthiers around me!! ) I will die.
 
#112
I'm not suggesting to touch a bass that is working good for your needs. What I'm trying to say is that removing a neck or a bridge is not more complicated than adjusting bridge saddles, truss rod, or any other mechanical thing on your instrument.
Removing a neck, as well as adjusting a truss rod, is still some kind of "taboo" for some people. Believe me, the problem is all in your head, not in your hands. Instrument are just tools, and they need to be adjusted over time to work properly.
But hey, if you like how your bass works, don't touch anything and enjoy. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: THany
#113
Hypercaffium said:
I'm not suggesting to touch a bass that is working good for your needs. What I'm trying to say is that removing a neck or a bridge is not more complicated than adjusting bridge saddles, truss rod, or any other mechanical thing on your instrument.
Removing a neck, as well as adjusting a truss rod, is still some kind of "taboo" for some people. Believe me, the problem is all in your head, not in your hands. Instrument are just tools, and they need to be adjusted over time to work properly.
But hey, if you like how your bass works, don't touch anything and enjoy. :)
Click to expand...
Maybe I should tell you the bachground, Im a 49 years old housewife started playing 3 months ago. The whole problem steated when I wanted to change strings, looked here, read posts saying it was apiece of cake changing strings etc... I have watched Dave's from talking bass video on how to do it, but no one mentioned that lighter strings would change neck reliefe and other things! So I went for it and found myself fot another month or so trying to fix that thing. Thank God, with some wonderfull people from here, I finally managed to get very close to what I wanted.
What Im trying to say is, sometimes things that are obvious to you guys, who deal with this for a long time, are a miss in the explenation, and can effect the whole thing, so Im just way more carful now, until Im in business! See what I mean?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mingus_Habens
#114
THany said:
Maybe I should tell you the bachground, Im a 49 years old housewife started playing 3 months ago. The whole problem steated when I wanted to change strings, looked here, read posts saying it was apiece of cake changing strings etc... I have watched Dave's from talking bass video on how to do it, but no one mentioned that lighter strings would change neck reliefe and other things! So I went for it and found myself fot another month or so trying to fix that thing. Thank God, with some wonderfull people from here, I finally managed to get very close to what I wanted.
What Im trying to say is, sometimes things that are obvious for you guys, who deal with this for a long time, is a miss in the explenation, and can effect the whole thing, so Im just way more carful now, until Im in business! See what I mean?
Click to expand...
That's perfectly clear, take your time and enjoy your instrument. Feel free to ask for help, if needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: THany
#115
Hypercaffium said:
That's perfectly clear, take your time and enjoy your instrument. Feel free to ask for help, if needed.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I will. This forum is amazing, really, as someone here sayed: bassist are supportive people, because thats their roll in the band.
( and I would add: a real good bassist must put his ego aside in order to do a good job, if he doesnt, he serves himself, not the band)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mingus_Habens
#117
murph7489 said:
I think a good place to start would be like 5/64" on the low string, and 3/64" on the G or highest string...in mm that works out to be 2mm bass and just a hair above 1 on the high side..or G string

remember that is a starting point..you can set your action to whatever you like but my numbers are a good jump off point..like someone else said you may have to add a shim on the neck if you have a bolt on..to get it where you need it..if you do, use a laminate wood product..not cardboard or anything that can compress..obviously..
Click to expand...

a laminate wood product is both helpful and a bit broad
 
#118
Both my P and my Cirrus 5 have 1/16" under the G at the last fret and the E has 5/64" on the P, the B has 3/32" on the Cirrus. Both have a neck relief of 12 thousands of an inch at the 9th fret, and 22 thousands between the bottom of the nut slot and the first fret. I play reasonably light, but can still dig in when I want to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: murph7489
#119
Marty Forrer said:
Both my P and my Cirrus 5 have 1/16" under the G at the last fret and the E has 5/64" on the P, the B has 3/32" on the Cirrus. Both have a neck relief of 12 thousands of an inch at the 9th fret, and 22 thousands between the bottom of the nut slot and the first fret. I play reasonably light, but can still dig in when I want to.
Click to expand...

there ya go...those number look great to me...that G is low but preference is yours and its not wrong...those are absolutely correct numbers though for relief and nut..and string on the E that's where I set up basses at...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Marty Forrer
#120
THany said:
Can someone post me pics of their low action bass , so I can see how close the strings are to the fretboard?
Im having trouble lowering the strings o my ibanez sr800 ( yes, I know I should take it to someone who knows.. not possible at the moment, I opened a thread about it, but nothing seam to help.... ) I just wanna see with my own eyes
HOW LOW CAN YOU GO
(Without a buzz and a bow)
Thanks
Click to expand...
I have a really lite touch. My tech actually laughs when he sets up my bass at how low I like it. But when I play it, it doesn’t buzz at all. My current measurements on all my Basses is .080 thousandths under the E string at the 12th fret and .060 on the G. I have all the necks practically straight with the smallest hint of relief. I use TI jazz flats and tune down a half step. I’d love to hear if anyone has lower action than myself.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back