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Will this work?

#41
maturanesa said:
I wouldnt do that.
The replacement is super heavy and chunkier. The idea of a semi hollow, for me, is to get more resonance from the body.
The higher the mass of the bridge the more energy is transfered back to the strings instead of passing through the body. Thats the reason basses like Hofners and others have a wooden bridge or like Gretsch with a light tune o matic style. Ibanez artcore too.
Click to expand...

You gotta do what works for you. If it were my bass, I wouldn't hesitate to change the bridge.
 
#43
maturanesa said:
I think if the bendind is in the same direction there will be no problem.
Bending a string to the right if it was previously bent to the left would eventually end in a broken string.
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Well, my situation the string would be bent back to its original state of ‘straight’. I would then bend a new 90* angle 10-15mm closer to the end of the string. This would have the effect of lengthening the string by 10-15mm. And the portion that was straighten would be in the first wrap around the peg.
 
#44
Zerpersande said:
Well, my situation the string would be bent back to its original state of ‘straight’. I would then bend a new 90* angle 10-15mm closer to the end of the string. This would have the effect of lengthening the string by 10-15mm. And the portion that was straighten would be in the first wrap around the peg.
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Im trying to figure out... You got the string with a bent of 90 angle and you got to make another 90 angle in order to reach a peg that is further away?

I would not straight the 90 angle, just make another angle and see what happens. To straightening a 90 angle woulld break the string.

Its actually rare because you always make an angle in the tip of the string in order to place it in tha peg hole,
do you just make an angle and not use the peg hole (like an old guitar with a portion of the string hanging out the peg)?
 
#45
maturanesa said:
Im trying to figure out... You got the string with a bent of 90 angle and you got to make another 90 angle in order to reach a peg that is further away?
Click to expand...
One of the advantages of the HipShot bridge is that there is a greater distance between the back of the bridge(end of string) and the saddle. This addresses one of the problems of the Gibson 3-point bridge, that being that the silk on the ends of the strings rides on the saddle.

But my strings are already on the bass. That means I need to use some of the string wrapped around the peg to reach that further distance. But I only have 1 1/2 wraps around my E string. The extra distance is about 10mm and the length of the string inside the peg is 25mm. So my plan is to straighten out the wire inside the peg and the make a new 90* bend 10mm from the end of the string. This will increase the length of the string to be able to reach the back of the new bridge, put 15mm of distance between the straightened out bend and the new bend and add about 5mm more lengthnof string wrapped around the peg.
 
#47
I’m going to do it. The last exchange made me even less concerned about breaking the wire bc….

I remembered that I used some brass spacers between the nut on the end of the string and the bridge. This adds another few mm of length to the string. I was having some problems getting my US credit card to work to buy the bridge but will get that resolved soon.

Also I’m VERY careful when doing new kinds of work/projects. I remember my grandfather always telling me “Measure twice, cut once.” I think I measure twice. Then double check it two more times. Then use a different ruler THEN ask on here one more time.

It’s coming down the pipes.
 
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#48
Zerpersande said:
I had the recommended 2 wraps on the E string....
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that's not a "recommendation," it's a fad, a fashion statement. wrap the whole string. done. or, wrap the whole string until you know better: maybe you're done, maybe you're not --- time will tell! ;)

in any event:
mdogs said:
...if you carefully straighten them each time, you can put them on and take them off quite a few times.
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:thumbsup:

and i would add: if you don't cut them = you can put them on any ax and take them off and put them on other axes "quite a few times."



FWIW: i haven't cut strings for decades: no problems/issues and it looks way cool if you do it right! :cool:
 
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#49
JRA said:
that's not a "recommendation," it's a fad, a fashion statement. wrap the whole string. done. or, wrap the whole string until you know better: maybe you're done, maybe you're not --- time will tell! ;)
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In rock climbing unless there is a section of rope that has been damaged by stepping on it, rappelling over a sharp edge, etc the rope always fails in one place…..the knot. It would seem that wrapping a string over the top of itself has some a degree of similarity to a knot. For that reason alone it might not be the absolute best strategy. On the other end, there is a minimum number of wraps required to keep that string in place. That’s a fact. But how many will depend on the string, the peg diameter, peg design, maybe how far the string is inserted into the peg.

For me the sweet spot is going to be string to the bottom of the peg, aim for the maximum number of wraps without overlap. I have three(3) strings that are installed pretty close to that ideal. And when I install the new bridge I have zero worries about them.

oh….
my words = opinion
I can dig that, my man!
 
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#51
Zerpersande said:
How about a pic of ‘done right’?
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not a great pic --- but maybe you can tell that none of the strings have been cut:
20240325_111203.jpg
 
#52
Zerpersande said:
For me the sweet spot is going to be string to the bottom of the peg, aim for the maximum number of wraps without overlap
Click to expand...

That's really not necessary with a tilt-back headstock.

Extra wraps just means extra string length that will stretch, taking longer for your tuning to stabilize.
 
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#53
ctmullins said:
-That's really not necessary with a tilt-back headstock.
-Extra wraps just means extra string length that will stretch, taking longer for your tuning to stabilize.
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Agree and agree, but….
I wouldn’t be having my problem if I had the 4-5 wraps I have around the other pegs. But this is kinda’ a one-off situation. As for the tuning, it would seem to be theoretically accurate. Not sure it makes a difference to me. I got into this to play along with music I have always enjoyed. A certain amount of retuning isn’t a huge deal for me. Out of interest has anybody that uses >3 windings have trouble keeping their bass in tune?
 
#56
ctmullins said:
Extra wraps just means extra string length that will stretch, taking longer for your tuning to stabilize.
Click to expand...
that must certainly be true to some extent (probably different with different string sets), but if you check your tuning before you play you can actually 'see'/hear/feel that effect resolving after a few tune-ups. IME, the string is 'stretched' after a few tunings (3-4?) whether you cut them or not! also, FWIW, i'm pretty picky about reliable tuning because i'm playing fretless instruments.

maybe using the whole string relies on a superior wrapping method :smug: or maybe the fear of "tuning instability" is overblown, or both --- i just don't have difficulties not cutting the strings. not cutting them does offer several advantages, however, and i find myself benefitting from those sometimes, e.g., swapping pricey string sets from one instrument to another for one reason or another: easy to try the same strings on both a 2x2 headstock and a 4 inline headstock...if they haven't been cut! ;)
edit: and uncut, intact strings aren't at risk of 'unraveling' or windings separating from the core. i use rounds, but i'd think this could be an advantage for flat-wound users.
 
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#60
Zerpersande said:
If money not a big issue, and the bridge only offered the ability of individual string height adjustment would it still be ‘a waste of money’? Or even money simply not being an issue?
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As I've said in other threads, in about 1983, I bought a used Fender parts bass. Like many from the period, it had a BadAssII bridge. A few years ago, I replaced to with a vintage style bent plate plate bridge. Other than it being a little lighter, I couldn't feel or hear any difference.

In other words, if there is something specific in regards to performance that a new bridge would give you that you need, you might want to do it. IMO a bridge replacement is the most overrated and necessary mod out there.
 

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