Winter 2017 Build Off -- The Dan-0-Backer

[Gilmourisgod]

I did a crap job on my templates, going to spend a lot more time re-making them for my Hossenfeffer 2 build. Every tiny flaw in my templates faithfully transferred to the body, which resulted in a lot more sanding and scraping. Every minute you spend on templates now is worth two later. Live and learn. Looking good on your templates. I found the control cavity on mine a little undersized. You may have to tweak the JAG pattern a little if you use a stock Ric wiring harness, the top two controls are pretty tight to the top edge of the cavity.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Thanks. I'll take a look at it when I get my pickguard in; per your recommendation, I'm going to go with a black post-74 pickguard that I'll modify for the lip-bucker.

I orginally ordered ivory binding, but have decided to go with white instead (more waiting!)

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Are you binding the FB? I used the Stewmac .060" X .25" white ABS binding on the body, but stupidly used .040" X .25" on the FB, looks a little wussy, and even tiny thickness variations show up because it's so thin. Definitely using .060" on any future builds. I tried acetone, CA, and Stewmac binding glue, ended up doing the whole thing with acetone, pretty forgiving and leaves no glue residue.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Yeah, I'm going all in and binding the FB. I'm using 1.5 x 6.0 mm (essentially 0.06 x .25") ABS all the way round. Both the front and back of the body will be bound since I'm veneering the body.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Got the wings rough cut and started trimming to the template things were going swimmingly

And then this happened:

After uttering a few choice words unsuitable for publication, I remembered that I'm veneering this thing so repairs are not a big thing. In true Dano fashion:

While the repair was drying, I made my Lipbucker template; the two holes match the holes in the Allparts pickguard. For anyone who wants to know, a 16mm Forstner bit makes a perfect fit.

Nice fit:

Since I'm a coward, and have never cut a pickguard before, I decided to test thngs out on a scrap Strat pickguard that I had laying around.

Voila!

So now with the repair trimmed up I got the upper wing glued up. After I flush cut those pins and do some filling, I should be ready to veneer.

Similar work ongoing with the lower wing:

Pretty much it for now.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I'm not even gonna ask what happened with that tearout, I've had a few "exciting" router incidents over the years, got away with no blood involved thank god. The pickguard route looks great, what kind of bit did you use? Just straight cut or some kind of spiral? I'm going to be making a pearloid TRC using a clear one @Aceonbass made for me as a template. Stewmac has a bevel router bit for that purpose, but don't know if anything special is required for plastic.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Yeah, was a bit more exciting than I like when working with sharp things spinning at thousands of RPM. No blood spilt (that usually happens with hand tools).

I just used a 3/8" straight flush-cut mounted in the router table. Wasn't sure about it until I tried it. I googled a bit an found that that's what most folks do. Seems like a standard bevel bit should work fine.

 

[Beej]

Wow, I thought my router slip had done damage! Great recovery - I didn't bother with mine since it will be under the pickguard...grinding against my compulsion to get rid of it...

 

[Jon Clegg]

Thanks. If I wasn't veneering this I'd be painting it at least. I plan on practicing the binding channels on scrap before I do it for real.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Control cavity routed (without mishap)

And oh my! It's starting to look like something!

 

[Jon Clegg]

Ready to veneer! The mahogany veneers have been flattened and are ready to go. I'm planning on dying the veneer with Behlen Medium mahogany as the two splotches show

I plan to apply the dye with a Preval sprayer to get an even result. Veneer trimmed and ready to glue and press. I'm using Titebond Cold Press Veneer Glue (a very thick Titebond) and the clamping rig with a pair of pieces of MDF to press it

The finished products, next I'll be attaching the edge veneers

Slight misalignment required a bit of a patch, I'm see how the binding hides it.

This is kind of what I envision for the color:

 

[Jon Clegg]

Practice makes perfect (or at least helps to avoid disaster) Test piece for cutting the binding channels using a 1/2" bit with a 3/8" bearing:

While I was thinking about it I decided that drilling through the side veneer with a 7/8" spade bit might not be the best idea, so I decided to go ahead and drill the input jack holes:

Did I mention I'm doing stereo? Oh yeah, I'm doing stereo.

I've got my practice channels routed which helped me decide that I'm going to run the grain of the side binding lengthwise rather than front to back to reduce chip-out of the side veneer. Did a quick stain job on the test piece.

Can't quite decide on ivory or white binding, so I'm going to rely on the collective wisdom of the LC since everyone here seems to have great taste. So Ivory:

Or white:

 

[Gilmourisgod]

With that reddish mahogany color, id go ivory. Is ivory the same as cream, or is cream more yellowish? I'm thinking the same thoughts for the next Ric style build in walnut, the pure white binding looks too stark.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Cream and ivory are the same.

 

[tbrannon]

Ivory

 

[Fat Freddy]

Ivory

 

[Gilmourisgod]

That's gonna look cool with top and bottom binding, like a 4005. Any thoughts about binding the headstock? Those tight radius turns worry me a little, but I had really good luck with the Stewmac binding cutters, going to try it on Hossenfeffer II, on scrap first, of course.

 

[Jon Clegg]

That's gonna look cool with top and bottom binding, like a 4005. Any thoughts about binding the headstock? Those tight radius turns worry me a little, but I had really good luck with the Stewmac binding cutters, going to try it on Hossenfeffer II, on scrap first, of course.

The tyranny of good ideas!! I may try a trial headstock shape and see.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Currently putting the veneers on the sides, came down with a nasty cold so I've been stalled a bit. Did manage to score some tuners off of the local CL for cheap.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Final stages of putting on the edge veneers.

I soften the veneer with a mixture of 1 part Glycerin, 1 part wood alcohol, and 8 parts water; after letting this soak in for a few minutes, it even allows the veneers to make sharp bends like this:

My current plan is to grain fill and dye the mahogany prior to installing the binding since I really hate scraping binding.