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Winter 2017 Build Off -- The Dan-0-Backer

#61
Hey Jon,
Since you have scraped binding before, any tips on this hateful job? My bass will be clearcoat over jet black, I have no idea how long the black has to cure before scraping binding. Hours? Days? My plan was to bind a couple pieces of scrap and practice paint and scrape. Then there is this Stewmac video:
 
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#62
I would let it cure for hours rather than days. I've only done it once and regretted A: not practicing on scrap, and B: waiting until I'd done all of the color coats. The sides of the binding, I masked with 3M automotive masking tape so than I only needed to scrape the top. I also made a scraper out of a piece of 3/8" dowel slotted to accept a piece of sheet brass with a burnished scraping edge.
0107171438a_hdr-jpg.jpg
 
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#63
Gilmourisgod said:
Hey Jon,
Since you have scraped binding before, any tips on this hateful job? My bass will be clearcoat over jet black, I have no idea how long the black has to cure before scraping binding. Hours? Days? My plan was to bind a couple pieces of scrap and practice paint and scrape.
Click to expand...

My take on it is do everything you can to avoid getting stain on the binding to start with. Even the stain in the finish will usually migrate into the binding. The stain will find it's way into little crevises and even sanding marks you did not know were there and then you will have to scrape very deep to get them out, and after the clear coat it WILL be noticeable. From experience.

The steps I use now are mask off the binding. On the sides you can just lay the tape along the line, then fold it over the top. To cut the masking on the top you'll need to make something to hold a razor blade at a set distance from the edge, like a purfluing tool. Maybe just cut a slot in a piece of wood and glue a razor blade in. Then lightly cut all the way around the top. Shoot one coat of clear finish on the masking tape. This will stop stain and colored finish from migrating under the tape. Then shoot your color coat(s). Take the masking tape off. There should be very little clean up needed. As you are spraying clear coats, spray several extra coats just on the binding to build it up to the level of the color coats. Sand it even and finish up with however many clear coats you are using.

Purfluing cutter:
purfling-groove-cutting-tool-[2]-51-p.jpg
 
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#64
Smithcreek,
What are you using for masking tape? I've tried automotive pinstripe tape, and it still bled under. I was taking my cues from watching Ric and Gibson factory tour videos, where teams of incredibly skilled women (always seems to be women, better fine motor skills and attention to detail, I presume) scraping color coats off the binding. The finished product usually looks great, but they've been doing it for years. I'm going to make a couple mockups and try both techniques. I've seen combined techniques where they mask the sides and scrape the tops.
 
#65
Gilmourisgod said:
Smithcreek,
What are you using for masking tape? I've tried automotive pinstripe tape, and it still bled under. I was taking my cues from watching Ric and Gibson factory tour videos, where teams of incredibly skilled women (always seems to be women, better fine motor skills and attention to detail, I presume) scraping color coats off the binding. The finished product usually looks great, but they've been doing it for years. I'm going to make a couple mockups and try both techniques. I've seen combined techniques where they mask the sides and scrape the tops.
Click to expand...

D-Smith said:
Shoot one coat of clear finish on the masking tape. This will stop stain and colored finish from migrating under the tape. Then shoot your color coat(s).
Click to expand...

I use the same technique. Works perfectly.
 
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#66
D-Smith said:
My take on it is do everything you can to avoid getting stain on the binding to start with. Even the stain in the finish will usually migrate into the binding. The stain will find it's way into little crevises and even sanding marks you did not know were there and then you will have to scrape very deep to get them out, and after the clear coat it WILL be noticeable. From experience.

The steps I use now are mask off the binding. On the sides you can just lay the tape along the line, then fold it over the top. To cut the masking on the top you'll need to make something to hold a razor blade at a set distance from the edge, like a purfluing tool. Maybe just cut a slot in a piece of wood and glue a razor blade in. Then lightly cut all the way around the top. Shoot one coat of clear finish on the masking tape. This will stop stain and colored finish from migrating under the tape. Then shoot your color coat(s). Take the masking tape off. There should be very little clean up needed. As you are spraying clear coats, spray several extra coats just on the binding to build it up to the level of the color coats. Sand it even and finish up with however many clear coats you are using.

Purfluing cutter:
purfling-groove-cutting-tool-[2]-51-p.jpg
Click to expand...
Pretty much what I thought as well; that's why I'm going to do the color before installing the binding.

To minimize chip out on the side veneer when cutting the binding channels I made a similar tool using 1/4" MDF a snap-off blade and some double-sided and masking tape:

GEDC0449.JPG
 
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#71
Pickguardian will make a Ric guard in any material you want, 1/2" or 1" neck spacing, had one made in white pearloid for the Hossenfeffer, really nice quality. The one I got had a router nick in one edge, they replaced it no hassles. If you already have a guard you like, you can trace it and they will make an exact copy. They won't make a Ric TRC shape due to copyright, but will sell you a matching blank rectangular piece to match the pickguard material.
 
#75
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#77
Nice! I thought I was looking at cream binding at first, good clean cuts. That's a great preview of how the cream binding will look. I have the same two big holes for the jacks, 7/8" diameter, but I'm still going to have file them out to fit.
 
#79
Gilmourisgod said:
Nice! I thought I was looking at cream binding at first, good clean cuts. That's a great preview of how the cream binding will look. I have the same two big holes for the jacks, 7/8" diameter, but I'm still going to have file them out to fit.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I wondered if anyone would be fooled at first, <lol>. I'm really liking this look so I'm thinking I may build a steam-punk bass with the rest of the veneer I have. Imagine that mahogany color with cream binding and bright brass hardware.

As for the holes, I plan to mark the location of the holes and glue in the binding before cutting out the holes in the veneers.
 

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