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Wishbass Club pt. 2

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#581
WaveRider: Yes, a bit. The guitar wants to hang "level" on your body when standing. I asked the same question about the one on Ebay right now and he admitted his is the same way. I think this body shape is prone to that unless really heavy woods are used in the body. Eventually I plan to modify my headstock and take off some wood up there - it is such a thick chunk of maple! I just haven't figured out how to do it yet and it still look good. Plus, the finish on this one is very nice and I kind of hate to mess with it right now until I complete getting moved.
 
#582
49sfine said:
....Eventually I plan to modify my headstock and take off some wood up there - it is such a thick chunk of maple!
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I originally considered this during my refin, but then I thought about it and was concerned that the open design of the headstock shaved down might create some strength issues due to string tension: so I decided discretion is the better part of valor!
 
#583
Thunderitter: I hear you ... The main headstock issue with #168 is the positioning of the tuning pegs. They are smack dab in the middle of the headstock width and don't allow any angling either top side or bottom side. So, I am not sure what I can do to trim some wood off and have it sturcturally sound (as you pointed out) and aesthetically pleasing too. I may just leave it alone - it's not unattractive mind you, just a bit heavy.
 
#585
wave rider said:
How does the Scarab hang? Neck heavy?

=wr=
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My purpleheart Scarab actually hangs fairly balanced, but the overall positioning of the bass is shifted to the left a little. By this I mean that the nut is a farther reach then my other basses, but the neck does not dive.
PurpleheartScarab861Wishbass861-5.jpg
 
#586
I have fallen in love with Wishbasses after looking through this thread. I have a question though, how would they do in a band setting? From what I've gathered (and I could be completely wrong here), they seem to be made mostly for solo/jazz work. Would they be usable for stuff closer to rock?

Either way, when I decide to get a bass (probably a while from now when I start to get decent), I'm going to be heavily considering a Wishbass.
 
#589
Thanks guys, I know that seemed like a fairly dumb question, but I'm still new to most of this stuff. If/when I get one, I'd probably either order it fretted or have it fretted on arrival, as that's what I'm playing. That's still a while into the future though. Until then I'll just fantasize about these beauties.
 
#591
Fwarginator said:
I have fallen in love with Wishbasses after looking through this thread. I have a question though, how would they do in a band setting? From what I've gathered (and I could be completely wrong here), they seem to be made mostly for solo/jazz work. Would they be usable for stuff closer to rock?

Either way, when I decide to get a bass (probably a while from now when I start to get decent), I'm going to be heavily considering a Wishbass.
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i play mine regularly in the group i play in. love it. so does everyone else. great tone, great growl, plays nicely with the other instruments.
 
#593
Thunderitter said:
$100 option if you do it at build.
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That would be the time to do it...for fingerboard finish and warranty reasons at a minimum.

I'd have to believe that having a local luthier/tech do it would have to cost a lot more (and it would take more skill to fret a fretless fingerboard than only replacing the frets on a currently fretted instrument).

Have Wish do it (if you must go fretted).
 
#596
salamandyr said:
ya, well - i've got a few WB's.. one of em was fretted by wish and it's kind of a crappy job. so i'm wondering if anyone knows what it might run at a luthier's shop, to have it done "aftermarket"
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Salamandyr: I recently bought a fretted instrument from Wish, right off of Ebay... Although it is a 6 string electric guitar (based on the "Standard" body style) and not a bass, the fret job is really nice, with one exception - the lack of final sanding on the very ends of the frets where they meet the edge of the neck/fretboard. When the frets were trimmed after being installed, they were not sanded at those points and result is some very sharp edges that actually could cut your skin if one is not careful. I tried my hand at sanding a few of them out, and it is very easy to do and I don't mind at all. So, it does not detract from this purchase at all for me, but someone else not interested in doing this kind of hand work might be bummed. Actually, I like these kind of unattended details becuase it gives me a chance to make the guitar more my own. Be forewarned though, it's not everyone's 'cup-o-tea'. Anyway, that's been my fret experience to date.
 
#597
thanks - i've got two actually, that came from him with frets.. the intonation is off on one, and the frets need finishing on the other (like you mentioned).

i'm happy to do finish work.. but on the first fretted WB i got, i cannot fret more than half way toward the body or the notes are off. :( plus many of those frets hit the strings when fretting one area.

probably need to replace the corian bridge with a 4-part bridge so i can set the intonation for each string separately, and get a higher bridge.

angling the bridge hasn't helped all that much with the intonation.

but that's my experience - poor craftmanship on one, and actual mistakes (i assume) in the other. that's why i'd rather not send an otherwise nice bass back to wish for frets.. would prefer to find someone in Los Angeles with a Plek and decent rates :)
 
#599
jbybj said:
My purpleheart Scarab actually hangs fairly balanced, but the overall positioning of the bass is shifted to the left a little. By this I mean that the nut is a farther reach then my other basses, but the neck does not dive.
PurpleheartScarab861Wishbass861-5.jpg
Click to expand...
Awesome Scarab! Yours has a much bigger body than mine and less cutouts - not to mention the weight of purpleheart. I think those factors make the difference. Thanks for sharing ...
 
#600
re: fretting a wishbass:

I took my hyper to my fret guy for an estimate. He said it'd be about $150, but that because of the taper of the neck between nut and bridge it's actually a more difficult after the bass is together than it is at build time. Also, if you're working with a hard wood like purpleheart or ipe, it's easier to chip the fingerboard.
 
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