Wishbass Club pt. 2

[49sfine]

49sfine, I may like the stude the most of all the body styles and yours is looking really nice. Was it you that made the long sanding block for your fingerboard? (I've read so many threads, they all seem a blur at this point...) If so, I'm interested in the details; when I have some time, I would like to refinish mine.

Wave Rider: Yes, I'm the one that spoke about the long metal tubing sander. What happened there was I looked at the StewMac catalog and saw the fingerboard sander they sell and I realized I had some of the same rectalinear thick-walled tubing in my scrap metal bin. The only real difference is the SM sander has been professuionally honed on one edge and they assure it to be truly flat. I figured my piece of tubing couldn't be that far off and could vastly improve my fingerboard just as is. (I can always take it to a machine shop later to have it leveled.) My sander is 16" long and I use a 16" self-sticking 80g sandpaper (that I use to do bodywork). I make all my initial passes with the sander at this grit checking my progress with a fingerboard straightedge I bought from Luthiers Merchantile. This straightedge is 35" long and takes the guesswork out of what is going on with the FB surface. I then follow up with 120g on the same sander, but just held on by hand pressure. Then it's on to 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200g and finally 1500 grit. These finer papers are just hand held onto a very stiff rubber (flat) sanding block I have for bodywork. The result is almost a glass-like surface! After checking my FBs (4) I have found issues on all of them, some minor, some not so minor - but all are/were correctable. I do find myself wishing that I did not have side dot markers though, because some of them are so close to the top of the fingerboard it makes me afraid to radius it (I haven't ried that yet). So they will have to stay flat I suppose, which is okay too ...

Well, hope that helps, it's getting late.

 

[wave rider]

49sfine, thank you kind sir, that is just the kind of info I was looking for.

• What kind of sanding motion do you use? Linear along fingerboard? Cross fingerboard? "Orbital"? All of the above and more!?!?
• Are you aiming for exactly flat or shaping in some "relief" as one might dial in with a standard bass's truss rod?
• What kind of glue will you use to reaffix the nut?

I'm realizing just how many questions I have, maybe it is better to make smaller multiple posts rather than a single super-sized one?

I ended up with #946, fantasy shape with "African Mahogany" front/back and a purpleheart fingerboard that already has a radius. Thunderitter's refinish job inspired me to take the plunge...

=wr=

 

[49sfine]

49sfine, thank you kind sir, that is just the kind of info I was looking for.

• What kind of sanding motion do you use? Linear along fingerboard? Cross fingerboard? "Orbital"? All of the above and more!?!?
• Are you aiming for exactly flat or shaping in some "relief" as one might dial in with a standard bass's truss rod?
• What kind of glue will you use to reaffix the nut?

I'm realizing just how many questions I have, maybe it is better to make smaller multiple posts rather than a single super-sized one?

I ended up with #946, fantasy shape with "African Mahogany" front/back and a purpleheart fingerboard that already has a radius. Thunderitter's refinish job inspired me to take the plunge...

=wr=

Wave Rider; I always sand in the direction of the grain - pretty much a rule of thumb for sanding wood in general, but especially important on a fingerboard. As I eluded to in my last post, right now my FBs are flat. I have ordered a "radius sanding block" from LMI which will give me 12 degrees of radious. I have learned from this forum that 12 degrees is a good one for a fretless - there are flatter ones of course. However, on some of my Wishes, the side dot markers are so close to the top of the FB, I dare not radious it for fear of the side dot metal being exposed. The Fantasy I have on order does not have side dots for this very reason - I can radious the FB without fear of this situation. Keep in mind that you need to level the FB FIRST with the metal sander and then radious sand it with the shorter radious sanding block. Use 80g to make all your initial passes and then begin the process of going finer and finer, using the radious sander or something else. Your sanding strokes on the FB should be long and continuous - try to go the entire length of the FB when you make your passes. You'll be surprised how quickly this process goes so check the level of the FB often as you sand!

The nuts come off pretty easily and I suspect Wish uses Super glue for them. I reattach mine with a very small amount of Super glue gel.

We would all love to see some pix of #946! Good for you!

 

[wave rider]

Wave Rider; I always sand in the direction of the grain - pretty much a rule of thumb for sanding wood in general, but especially important on a fingerboard. As I eluded to in my last post, right now my FBs are flat. I have ordered a "radius sanding block" from LMI which will give me 12 degrees of radious. I have learned from this forum that 12 degrees is a good one for a fretless - there are flatter ones of course. However, on some of my Wishes, the side dot markers are so close to the top of the FB, I dare not radious it for fear of the side dot metal being exposed. The Fantasy I have on order does not have side dots for this very reason - I can radious the FB without fear of this situation. Keep in mind that you need to level the FB FIRST with the metal sander and then radious sand it with the shorter radious sanding block. Use 80g to make all your initial passes and then begin the process of going finer and finer, using the radious sander or something else. Your sanding strokes on the FB should be long and continuous - try to go the entire length of the FB when you make your passes. You'll be surprised how quickly this process goes so check the level of the FB often as you sand!

The nuts come off pretty easily and I suspect Wish uses Super glue for them. I reattach mine with a very small amount of Super glue gel.

We would all love to see some pix of #946! Good for you!

I'm still in analog-land photowise so I only have the blanket pics from the auction. I rotated the vertical one so it fits better on the page...
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

It was after I purchased #946 and saw it "reclining" that I realized the upper body is shaped like a succession of breaking waves. I always want more waves...

I've been accused of being ham fisted by friends; I'll be doing more research before I start removing any wood. I did look on the web for info on purpleheart and came up with some interesting links. One involved cooking the purpleheart to make the resin spread (NOT GONNA DO THAT!), the other from the same site is a series of photos of purpleheart wood and the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. It looks like it gets the most purple after a week of exposure and then slowly turns browner over time. Since I'm interested in an oil finish, I wonder if any of them have UV inhibitors so I can forestall the color change?

=wr=

 

[49sfine]

WaveRider: Okay, I remember your guitar now ... Kool. Thanx for posting the pix.

The Fantasy I have on order will be zebrawood (both sides) with a persimmon fingerboard. I was thinking about wenge for the FB but heard it can deaden tone. Originally, I didn't think I would like the shape of one of these for myself until I saw ThunderRitter's and also the zebrawood 5-string Wish had up a while back - then I wanted one!

I have little to no experience with the oil of which you speak - perhaps someone else knows? Good luck with your plans.

 

[Papajewrry]

How do these work W/O a truss rod?

 

[jbybj]

How do these work W/O a truss rod?

The necks don't move. In the way that you can apply forward pressure to a neck to make a note bend, doesn't work on a wishbass. Between the way he laminates the necks and the overall heft, they are big, they just don't move.

Think about it, there a many stringed instruments that have been around for many decades without truss rods.

 

[Papajewrry]

Is there enough info online to try to build something similar?

 

[49sfine]

Think about it, there a many stringed instruments that have been around for many decades without truss rods.

Indeed, many centuries even!

- More wood, less steel, better feel ....

 

[Jeff Roller]

Do folks ever remove a bit of material from the "throat" of the headstock so the strings can go straight from tuner to nut?


=wr=

No, but that thought has occured to me as well. What has stopped me so far is being afraid of too much torsion being applied to that open headstock design. Maybe if you veneered two cross grained laminates to the back of the headstock before you shaped the front it would hold up nicely.

Please, someone else try this on their wish before I screw up one of mine!

 

[wave rider]

No, but that thought has occured to me as well. What has stopped me so far is being afraid of too much torsion being applied to that open headstock design. Maybe if you veneered two cross grained laminates to the back of the headstock before you shaped the front it would hold up nicely.

Please, someone else try this on their wish before I screw up one of mine!

I'm only thinking of gently curving that front edge of the "throat" just enough to clear the strings, probably less than a 1/4 inch of material. I asked Steve W. about it and he said to use a triangular file to remove material and that it wouldn't be a problem. He also didn't think the string running over that bit of wood on the way to the nut was a problem anyway.

I'll let you know how it come out when I get around to it...

=wr=

 

[49sfine]

Kids; It's bass Friday again! My walnut JB arrived today at my place of business. Purpleheart FB and a walnut center stringer in the neck - I'm stoked! It's actually very nice and I am very happy with it. Of course the usual finish and rasping issues, but all of the wood is very nice and it doesn't look like he was in a big hurry on this one. I love the purple fingerboard! I can't wait to get it home to tune it and try it out. I have to say though, that time-wise I will not be able to do anything with this one for a while, perhaps a long while. I am supposed to be remodeling parts of my home, but I keep getting distracted with these dang, kool bass guitars! - We'll see how it shakes out. I'll post pix of the "family" soon, I hope ... Keep sanding, gentlemen.

 

[Gubna]

I will get to some sanding myself this weekend, maybe. I had fun with my dremel (with the rotary sandpaper attachment) and shaped a bit of the bass. I need to get some filler for some spots and I like the idea of the superglue gel.

I also am going to work on that spot where the strings cut into the wood between the nut and the tuning machines. I'm thinking I'll just sand it down a bit and make the edge a bit more curved. Actually, I was thinking of making the whole headstock a bit more rounded. We'll see what happens when I get the sandpaper out tomorrow...

 

[49sfine]

"he said to use a triangular file" ...

I've never thought of this issue before, but now that I am home and looking at my Wishes, I see what you guys mean. I disagree with the trinagular file suggestion though - personally, I would use a rat tail file or small half-round and keep the new string 'channel' more cirucular in nature unless the overall shape of the bass is very angular (like my JB?). I don't see why you couldn't do this - I can't imagine this would create structural failure in any way.

Speaking of that, I whittled down the neck 'heft' on the Stude - probably took off a good 1/8" starting at the headstock, with my spokeshave. Once you get near the upper horns, the tool is impeded by these. I hope I didn't take off too much! Feels pretty good now, but it is structurally safe? Man, I hope so!!!! Guess we'll see ...

 

[jbybj]

I have used a dremel with a small router bit, a small grinding bit, and a hand file, (round) to make channels in various Wishbass headstocks to clear a path for the E and G strings. No issues at all, only success. I wouldn't worry about structural integrity as so little material needs to be removed.

Then again, I have left two unchanged, with the string riding over the wood, and there is no noticeable problems with tuning or staying in tune.

I picked up a scrap of purpleheart at my local "House of Hardwoods" and the thinnest cut they could make was about 3/16". I'm considering replacing the aluminum cover with all wood. I got some other cuts that will facilitate experimentation with Purpleheart bridges. I may have to purchase some more power tools, that purpleheart is hard stuff......

Peace, James

 

[49sfine]

As promised, as aerial view of the kids, including an orphan (my P-bass). The Stude and Hyper remain unstrung because they are not finished, but hopefully ... Also pictured the Banana bass - strung, but awaiting it's K&K pup. The Lobe and my new JB are just as Wish sent them.

By the way, the JB sounds awesome!!! So much 'mmwwah' it's amazing. Perhaps it's the PH fingerboard, dunno' ...

More later, after my company leaves ...

 

[Thunderitter]

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]


=wr=

very similar to my starting point for my refin of #837. As you can see I sharpened up my points! Definitley demonstrates the point of no two Wishbasses the same!

More pics and details of what I did at http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=436581&highlight=wishbass+refin

 

[Ripper]

As promised, as aerial view of the kids, including an orphan (my P-bass). The Stude and Hyper remain unstrung because they are not finished, but hopefully ... Also pictured the Banana bass - strung, but awaiting it's K&K pup. The Lobe and my new JB are just as Wish sent them.

By the way, the JB sounds awesome!!! So much 'mmwwah' it's amazing. Perhaps it's the PH fingerboard, dunno' ...

More later, after my company leaves ...

wow... i havent gassed in a long time as much as i am right now over that stude!

 

[49sfine]

wow... i havent gassed in a long time as much as i am right now over that stude!

Boy, if you like it now wait until I have some finish on it! Right now it only has a coat of Tru-Oil sealer and that has been sanded down with 1500g paper. Once I get the real oil on it, that wood is going to pop in a major way. The JB, which is untouched, is how the Stude looked color-wise before I started working it over. I don't have the kool camera rig that ThunderRitter has, so I may not be able to capture how well it really looks, but already it is stunning. The JB is gonna' kill too!

 

[wave rider]

Thunderitter, it was your photos and the great look of the mahogany back of #837 that made me jump on #946 which is mahogany/mahogany. That and the purpleheart fingerboard. Thanks for the inspiration.

I may not go as sharp as you on the points! The fantasy shape is more comfortable than I had imagined it could be, I'm growing quite fond of it.

=wr=

very similar to my starting point for my refin of #837. As you can see I sharpened up my points! Definitley demonstrates the point of no two Wishbasses the same!

More pics and details of what I did at http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=436581&highlight=wishbass+refin