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Worship Bass Pedalboards

#4,021
I have finally gotten my first try at a pedal board done with a simple but effective setup. Had to upgrade my pedal part to the T-Rex Fuel Tank for the DC and AC options to power al my pedals. My tone is as tight as I've ever had with the compression and new Nordstrand Starlifter DI Preamp Pedal. This thing is amazing and so easy to use.

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#4,022
I need help from those with knowledge of 12VAC powered pedals. My Starlifter is a 12-15VAC powered and I ordered a T-Rex pedal power supply. I don't have a cable that will fit the port on the power supply or the Starlifter preamp pedal. Where can I get a 12VAC cable to connect to the T-Rex power supply to Starlifter?

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#4,023
Bassworship1 said:
I need help from those with knowledge of 12VAC powered pedals. My Starlifter is a 12-15VAC powered and I ordered a T-Rex pedal power supply. I don't have a cable that will fit the port on the power supply or the Starlifter preamp pedal. Where can I get a 12VAC cable to connect to the T-Rex power supply to Starlifter?

View attachment 3403326
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What does the port on the Starlifter look like?
 
#4,024
FullTime Tim said:
What does the port on the Starlifter look like?
Click to expand...
Screen Shot 2019-05-01 at 4.39.28 PM.png

Looking at this picture (sorry looked it up after I commented), you should be fine with that red cable that comes with the T-Rex. It switches 2.1, to 2.5, which looks right from the picture. You do need to be in the 12V AC out (you're picture does not show that) Does that one not fit in the pedal? If it the red cable is too big you might need to use a standard 2.1 cable on both ends, and that should be fine
 
#4,025
FullTime Tim said:
View attachment 3403371
Looking at this picture (sorry looked it up after I commented), you should be fine with that red cable that comes with the T-Rex. It switches 2.1, to 2.5, which looks right from the picture. You do need to be in the 12V AC out (you're picture does not show that) Does that one not fit in the pedal? If it the red cable is too big you might need to use a standard 2.1 cable on both ends, and that should be fine
Click to expand...

Both sides are 2.5 so I guess I'll reach out to Sweetwater and order a 2.5 for both sides.
 
#4,026
Bassworship1 said:
I need help from those with knowledge of 12VAC powered pedals. My Starlifter is a 12-15VAC powered and I ordered a T-Rex pedal power supply. I don't have a cable that will fit the port on the power supply or the Starlifter preamp pedal. Where can I get a 12VAC cable to connect to the T-Rex power supply to Starlifter?

View attachment 3403326
Click to expand...

AC power requirements for your pedal may be center pin negative or center pin positive.
For AC power center negative use a T-Rex AC Red cable.
For AC power center positive use a T-Rex AC Blue cable.

Nordstrand Starlifter website just says 12-15VAC POWER SUPPLY INPUT JACK — Connect the included 15VAC 300mA power supply here.

Check the included wal-wart. It *should* say if it is center negative or center positive. If there are still any questions, ask Carey.

Then use the appropriate T-Rex Red cable (center negative) or Blue cable (center positive).

as always, I could be wrong ...
 
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#4,027
tedsalt said:
AC power requirements for your pedal may be center pin negative or center pin positive.
For AC power center negative use a T-Rex AC Red cable.
For AC power center positive use a T-Rex AC Blue cable.

Nordstrand Starlifter website just says 12-15VAC POWER SUPPLY INPUT JACK — Connect the included 15VAC 300mA power supply here.

Check the included wal-wart. It *should* say if it is center negative or center positive. If there are still any questions, ask Carey.

Then use the appropriate T-Rex Red cable (center negative) or Blue cable (center positive).

as always, I could be wrong ...
Click to expand...
AC literally means it ALTERNATES current between negative and positive. DC means "direct current" and the direction of flow matters, thus the need to know the pin polarity.
 
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#4,029
tedsalt said:
It's weird that T-Rex would make different AC power cables for AC. Maybe one has 2.1mm and the other has 2.5mm connectors? Not sure.
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After research my setup is 2.5 on the T-Rex and 2.5 on the Starlifter. The cable that comes with the kit is a 2.1 to 2.5. I have ordered a cable from Sweetwater and it should be here before Band Practice Saturday and my 2 services Sunday. I'm a newbie to pedalboards so this is all new to me lol.
 
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#4,031
tedsalt said:
AC power requirements for your pedal may be center pin negative or center pin positive.
For AC power center negative use a T-Rex AC Red cable.
For AC power center positive use a T-Rex AC Blue cable.
Click to expand...

From the tech sheet for the Chameleon...

1x Red AC cable with 2,1mm - 2,5mm connectors for use on the 12V AC outlet
1x Orange polarity inverter cable with 2.1 mm barrel plug - 2.1 mm female barrel plug
1x Black DC cable with 2,1mm DC - 3,5mm mini-jack connectors
2x Black 20cm DC cable with 2,1mm - 2,1mm connector
4x Black 50cm DC cable with 2,1mm - 2,1mm connector
1x Black 75cm DC cable with 2,1mm - 2,1mm connector
1x Black 100cm DC cable with 2,1mm - 2,1mm connector
1x Mains power cable (region specific)
Click to expand...

I may be wrong here, but isn't output 5 providing 12V DC when the pedal needs 12 AC from output 6?

And output 4 is set to deliver 18V DC. None of your other pedals want or need 18V - only 9V. You'd be better switching output 4 back to 9V to avoid any accidental pedal frying by inadvertently plugging them into output 4.
 
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#4,036
Rickter said:
Typically yes. The general rule is to use an Active DI with a passive bass and a Passive DI with an Active bass. As @SteveC said the FOH will have to run your line with higher gain to make up for a passive direct box. Especially if you're playing a passive bass into a passive DI. Am contemplating the CountryMan DI as you can use a 9V in lieu of phantom power. Still investigating that though.
Click to expand...

I like an MXR M81 for both. It has a in input as well as an output level. Is dead silent and as un-colored of a DI as you would want. Has 3-band EQ with sweepable mid. If you were going to just do one for multiple-duty, you could do worse...
 
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#4,037
Adamixoye said:
Do you know if it was your fault? I recently had a Zuma crap out. Strymon repaired it though.
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Yeah, my fault.

If I recall correctly, what I think happened was I plugged a cable from one power port on the Zuma, into another power port on the Zuma, while the Zuma was powered up. Doh!

It's been awhile since it happened, but I think I was working with multiple cables at the same time (mistake).

Only connect one power cable to each end at a time! With the power supply unplugged!

I'll contact Strymon and see if they can repair it, but I'm pretty sure I remember letting the smoke out. And heard they can be expensive, to the point where it's cheaper to just buy another ...
 

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