I have a couple of Dave's cables. They are great. Not sure that anybody makes any end that is truly compact.
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Worship Bass Pedalboards
- Thread starter Cshanks5
- Start date
I hear you, that's what I was afraid was the case. Quick question, why not move it to the edge of the board?
The only good one I've seen so far is Nate Navarro's which gives an ok idea. But it's unclear if it solves the basic concern of having a clean and dirty sound with about the same volume.
Looking for advice on the Line6 Pod Go.
My WT uses Helix Floor Processor for electric guitar, a small pedal board (compression + drive) for bass and usually nothing on acoustics. I play a couple times a month and swap around from bass to electric to acoustic, depending on who is available and what the WL wants me to do.
That means I have several combinations of pedals from one time to the next and am looking to simplify life. I wonder if the Line6 Pod Go offers a decent solution without breaking the bank.
Here's my current setup:
Electric - use the WT Helix. Problem there is others use it too. The settings get changed so I have to spend time making some adjustments each time I play.
Bass - supplement the WT pedals (compressor + drive) with chorus + reverb + delay.
Acoustic - I am the only player on WT that uses effects on acoustic: chorus + delay + reverb + flanger + volume pedal.
The Pod Go might let me set up what I need for everything. Sure would be convenient.
Comments or suggestion are welcomed!
My WT uses Helix Floor Processor for electric guitar, a small pedal board (compression + drive) for bass and usually nothing on acoustics. I play a couple times a month and swap around from bass to electric to acoustic, depending on who is available and what the WL wants me to do.
That means I have several combinations of pedals from one time to the next and am looking to simplify life. I wonder if the Line6 Pod Go offers a decent solution without breaking the bank.
Here's my current setup:
Electric - use the WT Helix. Problem there is others use it too. The settings get changed so I have to spend time making some adjustments each time I play.
Bass - supplement the WT pedals (compressor + drive) with chorus + reverb + delay.
Acoustic - I am the only player on WT that uses effects on acoustic: chorus + delay + reverb + flanger + volume pedal.
The Pod Go might let me set up what I need for everything. Sure would be convenient.
Comments or suggestion are welcomed!
If you are good with one effect at a time, I'm a fan of the Line 6 HX One. Janek just did a lovely video on it and put it on his rig.
I'm a fan of the HX One as well because it allows me to tweak stuff around.
The Pod go seems to be really high value.
@kirkdickinson There is this option. Lower profile and side exit
I'm sure this has been asked before, but anyone make their own board? I need ideas to steal. I don't think I have a picture but my last board was just a flat piece of wood I covered with black carpet and added legs to.
I have an endless supply of light weight honeycomb core composite floor boards used on commercial aircraft. That material makes great pedal boards. It's not as simple as plywood. But in the end, the end product looks the same....but at a fraction of the weight. Plus all of the materials are free to me, so theres that. Which is the real motivator for me using this stuff.
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I have made several DIY pedalboards. Like you my first one was a piece of plywood painted black with velcro and a bunch of pedals. My second was a piece of pegboard with the pedals zip tied to it. Velcro doesn't always stay stuck. After a really bad experience on a hot day when I opened my pedalboard case to find all the pedals off the board and in a sticky tangle of velcro, I decided that I didn't like velcro much.
I found a photo of my old pegboard DIY.
Here is the pedalboard with velcro that all the pedals fell off on a hot day.
I found this case cheap on ebay and just cut a piece of plywood to fit in in and put the pedals on it.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/th...d-bassists-club.388270/page-542#post-14467893
This board went through several iterations.
I swore of velcro forever. If I need something like velcro, I use the industrial 3M dual lock.
I redid this using this case. I picked up some scraps of aluminized plastic from the local sign guy. It has thin sheets of aluminum with plastic sandwiched between it. Looks good and is lighter than straight aluminum. I took some aluminum angle and riveted it together.
Here is my drawing that I based it off of.
There are hinges so that each shelf can be lifted up to access the wires and power supplies underneath.
Here is that board early on.
I used Dual Lock instead of velcro. I ended up taking all the pedals off and drilling holes through the aluminum every 1/2 inch and used dual lock plus velcro. Very solid and they never move.
Here it is with the velcro + zip ties.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/pe...-club-part-iii.1258084/page-492#post-20659600
Here is a short video that I took about how the shelves work.
This board is languishing in my storage shed right now and most of those pedals have been robbed off of it for another board, sold or loaned out.
I have been using a Holeyboard lately.
Current board with new THDI v2
View attachment IMG_5417.webp
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That looks to be about the length of the ones I have. I wouldn't call this low profile. I am thinking that should be something that exists like the EBS right angle cables that are molded and only have 1/2" protrusion. I wonder if something could be 3d printed?
Yea, it's not exactly thin, but as far as XLR's go, there isn't much thinner. It's just a big honking connector. You could probably 3d print something, but then you might have a reliability issue with the pins/solder/wire. At least I know I would with my subpar soldering skills.
Even these right-angle adapters are large due to the physical connector size. I have had to use them for XLR connections in the middle of a board (don't ask). It seems that there is just no getting around the fact that working with XLR connectors can be bulky, relatively speaking.
Amazon.com
Regarding low-profile, One might take the gold-colored connectors out of the black right-angle aluminum housing and solder them to another cable. The connectors themselves are smaller and would be a bit hard to handle that way without a thought out and designed housing but it should work.
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I have a couple of these as well. I am not currently using them, but they have worked ok in the past.
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They can short out or get noisy because of the twisting of the wires in the housing when moving the connector into the position required. Nothing that a little solder can't fix. The device I was using also had the XLR jacks on the sides. With the right angle connectors installed it worked but took up the space about almost half a pedal on either side when deployed.
