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Mark_T · Jul 1, 2026

I am fascinated to know how global warming has anything to do with dovetail joints, however. It seems about as relevant as the theory of relativity is to busetto corners. I don't think I'll be phoning anyone about it, though.

CHILLIBass · Jul 1, 2026

I ended up with a keeley angry orange I bought used at my local guitar center LOL

Baker69 · Jul 1, 2026

Well, I tried a set of KZ ZAX and wasn’t keen on them to be honest and I sold them on. The bass guitar wasn’t distinct enough IMHO, too deep with not enough note clarity. I ordered a set of ZS12 Pro X’s which are a lot better for bass guitar, and more recently a set of KZ ZAR’s which was my original intention. I like these a lot and find them to be better than the ZAX model, very nice also for listening to music in addition to bass IEM. THE ZAR’s are a lot different to the ZS12’s but both very usable and will be keeping them both. The ZAR’s offer a very nice warm and deep bass but still give note clarity.

g1303bk · Jul 1, 2026

I don't believe so? I did get a response from them and I'll see how it plays out.

Pbman · Jul 1, 2026

I cut all screws shorter by b1/4" and now I have spot on intonation. I have to cut off 4 spirals of the springs too so they wouldn't look distorted.

michaelharrell · Jul 1, 2026

bass player 53 said:
This thread has probably moved away from the OP’s issue. But, I agree with others in that initial, beginner’s double bass lessons are usually best in person for a while. If you explore, you will find double bass faculty almost everywhere within a reasonable driving distance in the US. After the beginner’s period, on-line lessons should work very well, using a platform like FaceTime, etc.
I’ve been taking weekly FaceTime piano lessons this way, after my piano teacher moved far away.

I mostly agree with this. For double bass especially, those first months really benefit from in-person correction since posture and hand position are so easy to mess up early on.

After that, online lessons make a lot more sense FaceTime, Zoom, whatever works and it’s pretty normal now even for serious students. Your piano example actually shows it well: once the basics are in place, remote lessons can be just as productive.

ChrisDev · Jul 1, 2026

Sometimes, all you need is a little James Jamerson.

TomB · Jul 1, 2026

DJ Bebop said:
I’ve been all over the place on neck size and feel. Started with a Japanese EB-3 copy, then a couple of Japanese and Italian Hofner copies before finding my forever bass, 62 P bass with the wide but thin neck. Since then I play whatever but it's all compared to the 62. The next favorite neck feel in my stable is my Carvin Bunny Brunel 5-string. That has the closest feel to my 62

I have a couple of Jazz basses that get played as well.

My history and approach is similar. Being teethed on both ‘60’s P’s and J’s (still have one of each), I’m pretty comfortable with most necks, except very round ones like the late ‘60’s Tele basses and their ilk. Even through the fog of years I can recall thinking “this is fat” when I played one. …never owned one. The ‘61 P and ‘63 J necks are my touchstones. I don’t think of one as better than the other. Horses for courses.

One Way · Jul 1, 2026

My P bass was clanking at times after a string change, it never previously exhibited this issue.
The ultimate fix? I raised the action just 1/64”. Turns out strings were clanking on the last fret (furthest from the nut) when I plucked aggressively.
Raising the action cured the problem for me.

Polfuste · Jul 1, 2026

Element Zero said:
I’ve seen the technology be used for good… but most of the time it’s been bad.

That, and always worse and worse as soon as it generates cash.

crypticdreaming · Jul 1, 2026

Hey man, have you gotten any actual help here? Tons of people trying to take this thread off track, but I have one of these SR780s and LOVE it. Would love to know more info but your post is literally the only information I can find.

Don Hergert · Jul 1, 2026

Transparency: I use the thickest 4 SBW Dirty Guts which produce closer to medium tension on my 3/4 DB, and I do a literal slap, not a pull-and-release.

Given that, it sounds to me like your action is too low to get under the strings with your fingers. Pull-and-release requires the fingers to really get under the strings quickly for a strong pull.

Best of luck with this!

PBassAcidJazz · Jul 1, 2026

Could be worth purchasing just for the new packaging.

RedJag · Jul 1, 2026

sunbeast said:
Yeah the EMG active blend isn’t my favorite take on it as far as taper goes, but still more useful than any passive solution I’ve tried yet. The active blend on John East preamps is the best I’ve tried, I’d be curious to know his secret and wish he offered a separate blend board

I asked the Lusithand folks if they offer a version of their preamp where the knobs are separate from the boards, they didn’t quite grasp why I wanted that. Tried to explain the weird layout with the Jaguar bass but it’s pretty clear they don’t have any plans to offer more flexible versions of their preamp. Would love a Wal-style filter for both pickups

DJ Bebop · Jul 1, 2026

James with Martha Reeves

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baxter_x · Jul 1, 2026

It's around 95 pounds and all of the neo series have silver grills.

Les Fret · Jul 1, 2026

Here a short of the second song in the video.

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HolmeBass · Jun 30, 2026

Maybe playing the short scale strengthened something that resolved the pain you were getting on the 34" scale bass?

cocky212 · Jun 30, 2026

That's a good plan

PaperbackRyder · Jun 30, 2026

DuluthDank said:
Old thread, but how would you compare the Revsound RS210 and Barefaced Super compact?

That was a long time ago, so I really cant say.
I was using the Rev 210 as my only cab back then. There were several times on large stages, when it just ran out of gas. The BF Super Compact 1x12 was a direct replacement for the REV and ten lbs lighter, so I bought two of them and havent looked back.
OTOH, RevSound makes a great product, David Luke is very easy to deal with, they have a shorter lead time and are more reasonably priced.

JIO · Jun 30, 2026

It's been a minute... but wanted to share this vid on Burns I just discovered. Pretty interesting in parallel with the rest of the guitar-boom '60s. Check it out - it has the unfortunate annoying mis-alignment of photo references as is typical of current AI BS along along with the fake "British" voice-over.., but it does cover some (hopefully) historic information.

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Dincrest · Jun 30, 2026

The Solinger era of Skid Row is sorely underrated.

Login to view embedded media (Rachel Bolan's bass tone in that intro is bone-rattling).

MetalNeck Mike · Jun 30, 2026

Heavy Blue said:
I also have a v1 200, a 100, and had rented a 300 (what a beast!) for about 4 months.

100% agree with you irt the tone settings and keeping the mids pretty high. I usually have the mids set somewhere around 8 to 10 depending on how where the range and scoop are set.

I think that all 3 have a similar tone stack. To me, the range control is what is called the frequency control on the 100 & 300. The 100 & 300's fixed deep switch replaces the 200's variable scoop control & the fixed resonance switch replaces the 200's variable resonance control. My EQ settings on the 100 & 200 are almost identical.

Like many, I had originally fallen into the mid scoop trap. With most of my previous amps, setting the mids that high would've made them sound too brassy or nasally. Not so with these. There's a very noticeable reduction in volume starting at any mid setting under 6½-7.

Seeing how your 200 has 6550s (what did you mean by "upgraded"?), I thought I'd recheck mine. As I thought, it has JJ KT88s but what I didn't see before was that they're from The Tube Store as they have their logo/sticker on the bases. They must be well matched as the amp is very quiet with zero hum.

By chance, have you tried using EL34s in your 100? I'm curious about that but haven't heard one using them yet.

Nice knobs on your 200. Are they older Traynor knobs?

I like the Traynor cabs too. Used to have a TC1510 but I sold it & the first 200 I had during a rough stretch. I have a really nice condition TC810 but now I'm considering getting the TC210 & TC115 Neo as I saw a pair on sale for a decent price last weekend and would definitely be enough speaker for the rooms I play. Currently, I usually run the 200 through an Eden Nemesis 212 when playing out. Folks around here basically have a bird at the sight of an 810 plus the 212 only weighs about 36 lbs.

Do you notice any tonal differences between the 1510 and the paired 210 & 115?

Nice, I finally found a recent thread with YBA200 v1 model owners!

Mine just arrived and I replaced the JJ 6550’s power tubes with a matched set of Gold Lion KT88’s. Kind of nervous to go for it and let the autobias autobias itself. I figure if it fries something then I’ll take it to an amp tech and pay to repair. Since mine shipped to me with the power tubes removed, I am taking the opportunity

I’m looking for any YBA200 owners who have replaced their 6550’s with KT88’s, please share if you can.

Lo-E · Jun 30, 2026

I can’t see myself ever wanting to play a 24 3/4” scale bass but I will readily say that these look really pretty.

If the bridge were shifted back and the fretboard changed to make this a 30” scale (with the pickups left right where they are) I could see myself being really interested in it but, as it is, I’ll settle for enjoying how it looks.

Panzerhund · Jun 30, 2026

btw how do i change my pfp

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