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As they are single coil pickups , I'd guess it's the typical environmental RF noise that single coils are subject too.
Here is an example of various Ground noise, 60 cycle & RF noises on guitar for reference

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Wood and Wire said:

I haven't seen one in person, but that bass looks incredible in that video (the still photos really didn't do them justice), and sounds completely appropriate in that context - which I think a lot of people would say couldn't possibly work on paper.

It's also forming an appropriate Golden Arch, because I think I saw one of your CHICKNNUGGETS...

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This is the funniest post I’ve ever seen on TB!!!

Thanks to all for all the replies here, I've learnt a few things I didn't know.

I am primarily using an active bass (1999 MM Stingray 5 with a Piezo bridge), but the pops happen with anything plugged in, they also happen whether or not I'm playing at the time. I've also tried, as suggested, the clicking the switch a few times before with the volume off but the issue persists. So, as some here also say they don't have these problems with this pedal, I conclude that either the pedal is faulty or that somehow the way my pedal board interracts with it isn't optimal. Therefore I will look for an alternative pedal with buffering, ideally one that does nothing but give a level boost. I'm not after any tonal shaping at this point in the signal path, this is the last pedal in the chain, unless I decide to add a low pass filter at some point in the future.

I'm thinking possibly the Xotic Super Clean, partly because I have another Xotic pedal that is very good (Robothalk II), although I understand that this does have some tonal shaping options. Can anyone that uses this pedal tell me if there is a "flat" setting with this pedal? Or, if there is another pedal that would be a better fit?

Thanks again for the input.

More on that Dean Bass; There is no serial # anywhere on the bass. So I can't identify the model or year or even location of the mfg. Anyone have any ideas?

Yikes! I hope your fiddle player makes a full recovery. Good that everyone else was mostly unhurt.

As for the tree; that’s just a stage it was going through.

Tedthulhu said:

See, that's interesting, because I tend to learn songs on my fretted, and then, once I know the patterns and movements and have some muscle memory locked in, I can take it to the fretless and develop precision and technique on the naked board without also trying to learn a new song simultaneously. But hey, to each, their own. What works for me, might not be for everybody else, and vice versa.

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Makes some sense to me. I'm faster on fretted, certainly more proficient on it than the blank fretless. One thing I absolutely cannot do on fretless is learn something that has heavy effects. I cannot hear what I am doing well enough to play accurately. So for that, learn on fretted, take it to the fretless after it's solid. Or just skip it altogether cause I'm not a metal guy? "Yeah, that's the ticket."

Has anyone out there ever had the LED on an Audere preamp fail? I have the rear mount (non Jazz Plate) version. Some weeks ago the LED was acting funny. Not coming on or blinking faintly. Fresh batteries and the light started coming on again but not super bright. Now it doesn't come on at all though the bass works perfectly fine. I checked the output jack. With batteries (2x9v) removed there is no continuity between T/R/S.

I tried to test the LED with needles but the wires are too small to get good contact. I'm thinking the LED is bad or the preamp itself is no longer doing the battery test properly.

Normally I would just change the LED but this one would be super hard because of the way it was installed by previous owner.

@gtirard : It is much thinner than the Brooks 1.2. Plus it does not have the contoured flamed maple top.
Both the body thickness and the maple add to the weight.

Bob_Ross said:

Serious question: What’s the downside of giving *anyone* visual access to your property if it’s just an outward-facing view?

…besides knowing when the FedEx guy drops off your new Alembic bass at the front door. Okay, yeah, I guess there’s that.

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As much as I'd like to say it's a "tin foil hat" situation, it's really not. Anything it's tracking or keeping tabs on (or doesn't tell you it is, but IS) is accessible and being accessed by the company in question, 3rd party entities they sell/permit this information to, in many cases law enforcement (without needing a warrant or subpoena in some jurisdictions), and whoever gets unauthorized access to your account (general "bad actors").

"AI" Facial Recognition? It's capturing the FedEx guy, your spouse, your kids, and anyone else that comes to the front door within camera view. This is being used for "training data" and could be used for other things I won't go into detail on here. They can say it's stored/processed locally, but a $99 camera doesn't have the horsepower to process real-time, AI-grade facial recognition...that's offloaded to cloud compute services which means it's leaving your home. How long it's stored, who has access to it, and what's done with it is not even close to clearly disclosed.

Accessing the camera remotely via the Ring app? Your phone knows your location, so the Ring system documents when you are and aren't home. These types of apps want "keys to the kingdom" just to install them, so they try to get as much information extracted from your phone as possible. You can see how in the wrong hands that could be bad.

If it's connected to your home network, it is going to run around and try to get as much information as possible from any other device connected to your home network. If you don't know about how to set up a VLAN, how subnet addressing/segmentation works, or use client isolation on WiFi access points...chances are the device knows more about your home network than you do. Even instituting these things isn't foolproof, because new exploits get discovered all the time....and patched by manufacturers months later (if you remember to do firmware updates).

To reiterate, all this information passes through multiple hands and quite carelessly in most cases. Again, that is also best-case scenario, as it assumes no ill intent from the first 2-3 layers of parties involved. If you want surveillance for your home, use a closed-circuit system that doesn't touch the internet (IP cameras hooked up to a hub/DVR that doesn't have web access). Never configure anything to be accessible by your phone and avoid using wireless communication protocols for camera connections.



Sorry if that came off hostile, it's not meant to be. I see this stuff every day (even on an Enterprise level) and it's very worrying. The best defense is knowledge and awareness. The philosophy here is "They can't break through a door/window that doesn't exist", so best practice is to mitigate as much as you can.

ChrisDev said:

And so unique. I doubt she would get a record deal if she was a new artist now

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I think she would, extremely talented and she was stunningly beautiful back in the day

thank you

Sub'd

baileybassballs said:

Thanks a lot for the advice, shootr! Didn't even think of reaching out to Epifani as I thought maybe they'd shut their doors.

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Epifani is still operating normally. If you need any help getting in touch with them, feel free to shoot me a PM. I’ll be glad to help.

What's a reasonable price for a 5-string version of these? And are all fretless versions unlined? Also how do you tell which year it was made in - is there a serial/stamp somewhere on the heel or neck pocket?

Personally I like string retainers.

I've used the Fender stealth retainer on the lowest plus a 3 way Hipshot for the others on my last few with good results.

Electrosockets are usually round.

Wow, a long time since I created this. So, been using the Sleeve for nearly 10 years now almost every week and it still looks aa good as new, and the basses are well protected with no issues. My early concerns didn't materialise so no complaints here.

Bortron said:

However, they're concentric pots, and I'm finding it hard to find linear concentric pots, with audio tapers seeming to be the standard. They'd also ideally need to be metric size so I could use the stock knobs.

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Pretty sure you'll get Alpha dual pots in their R24 and R16 sized range too.

If you can't find metric ,brass sleeves are available to bulk up the shafts

I recently bought a drop to move everything half a step for one song in the set, rather than carry an extra bass.
However in use from e to e flat, there was a noticeable warble which I found to be distracting in use.
This being said, I only use passive instruments. YMMV relating to active.

Bergs are great, but how many amps have an “old school” control? (love your Ninja).

shojii said:

Nice work! Wondering if you cold add a layer of polished shellac to make it pop like a 70s mocha.

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Thanks! I’ve heard that shellac over poly might crack with time, but I might try if I do another project like this!

Yes, metallic. decent weight.

It wasn't this kind of thing?



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D'addario NYXL for me. But, all EB Coblat flatwound on my basses has far lasting healthy crispy tone 100E string than NYXL even EB group flat .

I'm back..happy 2026 ...more to come