Don't worry. All good.
All of my Sandberg basses had pre-slotted zero frets.
Maybe this is part of why Sandberg basses are so good?
If in doubt, ask at [email protected] and Holger Stonjek himself will answer you.
I have a Sandberg VM2, had two others (don't ask me about my state of mind when I sold them).
All are great instruments.
Don't worry, just enjoy your new acquisition.
Just a thought...
Could it be that the push-pull-pot did not snap-in in the correct position?
Not very probable, but maybe worth a try to pull a bit harder and to see what happens.
Had a similar experience with an instrument cable, it snapped in - but in the wrong position. Sounded like slow...
Hi, the black cylindrical shaped thing reads 100 micro Farad and seems to be your capacitor.
The passive tone control only works half of the travel of the knob, CCW from the center detent (when I remember correctly).
Have you already played your (presumably) beautiful Sandberg in a band...
Any Fender / Squier four string bass neck (with four bolt connection, obviously) will serve.
On mine, I have currently a Squier Precision fretless neck installed.
Loosen strings until they just still stay in place, loosen bolts and align neck until the strings run symmetrical over the fretboard.
Done this on my VM4 after shipment from France to Germany.
Things happen. As @MonetBass wrote, not uncommon.
On other Sandbergs I used to have, the alignment of...
A few years ago I soldered and assembled this one:
https://www.musikding.de/Guma-Antique-Overdrive-kit
Having the VMT also, it's possible to dial in very similar sounds on both. But, generally the Guma sounds like the naughty brother of the VMT.
Hi, went through this with an 1996 Am Std Fretless Precision.
Part no. 0048688000, but nowhere to be found.
In the end I put a 12-28 thread in a slotted nut with matching outer diameter.
Currently there seems one on Ebay though.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mario
Maybe it's worth to try what this guy does from 4:00 on:
I once left an American Standard Precision neck for a week in such a vise and followed the trussrod nut thightening strategy explained there. Worked on this one!
left side: locking screw, release this one first.
top left / top right: saddle height adjustment.
bottom right: tilt angle adjustment of saddle.
gently lift string and move saddle for intonation adjustment.
there is an extra locking screw on the front for the silvery steel thingy. unscrew...
@NeonVomit your Votan actually inspired me to ask Gerald Marleaux about a decent bass guitar. Well, here she is. Back of the neck also is blacked out, fretboard darker rosewood.
If you crank the Drive pot in the amp section using the Darkglass Suite, you get an overdriven sound. Just good enough for rehearsal at home, maybe not for band rehearsal or a gig. Comes however only through headphone out and XLR.
I've had some old La Bella flats in the drawer and put those on the Sterling. Brightness maybe not, but really lots of grunt. When digging in hard, even zing.
Installing the BT1 requires drilling on the Ray34. Drop right in works on MM Stingray et al.
Not sure about regular or short - on my MM Sterling i have installed the regular one, but the short version would be a better fit.
Guten Morgen!
Here's a Google find:
https://www.guitardoc.de/de/kontakt/
20 minutes walking from Ostbahnhof.
You have seen what us actually wrong?
The pot or maybe just the knob?