$100 Bass Challenge - Marceline's Axe Bass

[BassHappy]

Oddly enough, it didn't smell that bad. I remember when I was coating the fiberglass back of the acoustic bass I built, it was overwhelming, but this gassed out pretty quick.



I feel your pain. But I predict there's a mahogany build in my future. Since this was made from a few different pieces, up close it's just ok - there's a few visible seams running through it. A single body wing, from one piece should look much nicer.

I hear ya....

And I am sure it will look amazing in the end....

Look forward to seeing the next mahogany creation...

 

[mapleglo]

Well, almost 6 hours later, it seems hard as a rock.

It seems to have fogged up slightly, but still pretty clear. I'll let that cure overnight, and remove the tape tomorrow. Then hit it with the radius block.

 

[Hopkins]

The only concern that I would have with the fiberglass resin is that it drys pretty quickly. The system 3 I used took over 48 hours before it was fully cured, which gave it plenty of time to let any moisture or air bubbles escape, and it dried rock hard. Moisture shouldn't be an issue, as you live in a dry climate vs the swamp I call home. I just hope its hard enough.

 

[mapleglo]

The only concern that I would have with the fiberglass resin is that it drys pretty quickly. The system 3 I used took over 48 hours before it was fully cured, which gave it plenty of time to let any moisture or air bubbles escape, and it dried rock hard. Moisture shouldn't be an issue, as you live in a dry climate vs the swamp I call home. I just hope its hard enough.

One of the reasons I took on this $100 challenge was to try different and less expensive methods. I figured trying this fiberglass resin is a pretty good test. It's $15 a can, and available at the local Lowes or Home Depot. If it works, perhaps we'll be able to save some money next time a fretless build is done. If it doesn't work, we'll know not to use fiberglass resin

I figure the worst that can happen is that as I string up the bass, the neck relief introduced will either crack the resin, or make it pop off the fingerboard. At least I'll still have a prop, albeit a non-working one. Or I'll just sand it off and try CA glue. I did see some areas that seemed like either some moisture did get trapped, or an air bubble, or perhaps just a different curing level, or some kind of difference. Time will tell.

And yeah, I hope it's hard enough as well. In any event, if it does work, but is somewhat too soft, I can always sand it down more. It's about 1/4" at its thickest area, so that's enough for a few re-levels.

Here's what it looked like after I pulled off the tape.

And after I sanded it to the radius with 80 grit.

And wiped down.

That resin dust is brutal. I wore a dust mask during the process.

Didn't I recently say that I'd never work with fiberglass resin again after my last build?

 

[Hopkins]

I'm looking forward to see how the resin polishes out.

For future reference though, you can buy a slow drying self leveling epoxy at homedepot for a pretty inexpensive price. Ive used this stuff on a non guitar related project, it works pretty well. I see no reason why it wouldn't make a good fingerboard coating.

Rust-Oleum Parks 1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Finish and Preservative-241352 - The Home Depot

 

[mapleglo]

I'm looking forward to see how the resin polishes out.

Yeah, there's a lot of sanding in my future.

I saw an inexpensive table top buffer with two wheels at Harbor Freight. I may have to pick that up. It was like $40.00.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Yowch! That dust is nasty, made my eyes burn and run last time I worked on fiberglass boat repairs. This has gone way beyond the prop stage, now you are stuck with another cool working bass! Are you going to keep polishing the board to gleaming perfection, or a satiny look? The red definitely looks like blood now.

 

[Hopkins]

Yeah, there's a lot of sanding in my future.

I saw an inexpensive table top buffer with two wheels at Harbor Freight. I may have to pick that up. It was like $40.00.

Save your money, just get a wool buffing pad and chuck it up in a hand drill. It works as good as any buffer, and is about the perfect speed

Or as an alternative to that, you can chuck the wool pad into your drill press and set the belt at about its 3rd highest speed. Then you can hold your work piece instead of the drill like you would on a buffing station. You will have to remove the bottom handle on the drill press to do this.

 

[mapleglo]

Great tip, thanks! Definitely want to sand and then buff the fingerboard to a high gloss. Digging the blood red board

 

[Hopkins]

I wet sand to 2000 grit by hand, then use a 3000 grit foam backed pad on a random orbital to remove the sanding marks from the 2000 grit. To polish, I use MeGuiars fine cut cleaner.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

I wet sand to 2000 grit by hand, then use a 3000 grit foam backed pad on a random orbital to remove the sanding marks from the 2000 grit. To polish, I use MeGuiars fine cut cleaner.

I do likewise. I start wet-sanding at 1200, then go to 1500 and 2000. Then a 6" 3000-grit pad on a Porter-Cable random orbital, then buffing pads with MeGuiars fine-cut and a machine glaze.

I get good results, like this: http://i.imgur.com/tGbUOGd.jpg

 

[GKon]

I do likewise. I start wet-sanding at 1200, then go to 1500 and 2000. Then a 6" 3000-grit pad on a Porter-Cable random orbital, then buffing pads with MeGuiars fine-cut and a machine glaze.

I get good results, like this: http://i.imgur.com/tGbUOGd.jpg

LOVELY finish and color on the body! BTW, what type of p'up is that?

 

[HaMMerHeD]

LOVELY finish and color on the body! BTW, what type of p'up is that?

GFS MM Pro Plus- Alnico Music Man style pickup

Inexpensive and sounds really great.

 

[mellowinman]

 

[Hopkins]

I do likewise. I start wet-sanding at 1200, then go to 1500 and 2000. Then a 6" 3000-grit pad on a Porter-Cable random orbital, then buffing pads with MeGuiars fine-cut and a machine glaze.

I get good results, like this: http://i.imgur.com/tGbUOGd.jpg

I usually stop with the fine cut cleaner, how much better would you say that final polish with the machine glaze makes your finish?

 

[mapleglo]

Thanks for all the sanding and polishing tips! I guess I have my work cut out for me. I ordered a wool buffing pad and MeGuiars from Amazon. Should be here next week.

 

[mapleglo]

I am hoping to avoid the thick white paste makeup stuff. Looking for powder type white/gray stuff. But I may have to go with the thicker stuff.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

I usually stop with the fine cut cleaner, how much better would you say that final polish with the machine glaze makes your finish?

I found a shot I took between the cleaner and the glaze: http://i.imgur.com/ZgB8rp0.jpg

If you look at the tail end, you can see the outline of a reflection of my hand and the phone I took the pictures with. Compared with the link I posted yesterday, you can see that it's sharper and more distinct.

 

[Hopkins]

I found a shot I took between the cleaner and the glaze: http://i.imgur.com/ZgB8rp0.jpg

If you look at the tail end, you can see the outline of a reflection of my hand and the phone I took the pictures with. Compared with the link I posted yesterday, you can see that it's sharper and more distinct.

It does give it some extra depth and clarity. Definitely an extra step I will be taking next time.

 

[mellowinman]

I am hoping to avoid the thick white paste makeup stuff. Looking for powder type white/gray stuff. But I may have to go with the thicker stuff.

Whatever you do, you will have a far nicer bass than she does!